SLAPS

BCPR6E up to around 260rwkw BKR7E for a little over 300rwkw Pull the plugs and see how they look. The above is what I found. The 6's at much over 260rwkw were cooking. :S

Vent the catch can. The combustion gasses that push past the rings push up the oil return feeds while oil is attempting to run in the opposite direction and then out of your breathers. Vent that sump and your problem is mostly solved. Mine breathes zero; catch can is always clean. On the dyno the cans breather is clean running 1.6bar. Setup the heads oil restriction correctly, vent the sump and you'll have no issues. providing the motor has been built well. I've seen some 'well' built motors piss crap out of the cans breather.

Sincerely All the best... I think the only real problem with Neils proposal was inspecting cars at events. That just makes life miserable. As it has been in the past; police often tag along and show their presence but only come down hard/defect if people are idiots. Completely agree with that approach but not so much the proactive approach.

Polish it all up if you want all out 'top' end performance. If you wish to improve economy and low end torque for a bee's dick loss of top end performance roughen up the inlet. Nothing 0.2psi can't fix.

It was a bugger Neil put Kellie in a difficult position and wished to check cars for non-compliance of adr's. That was my understanding of the situation anyway. I don't believe she was ever flamed, the problem was always with the request from Neil which 'spoilt' it for Kellie.

Why would it foul the oil in the sump?? The trickle if any oil returning to the sump from the catch can will be much cleaner than the turbo's frothy air rated oil.

Either way it really doesn't matter.

I personally wouldn't T' it in to the turbo's oil drain. If you are not concerned with emissions (which I presume your not as chances are you have a larger turbo, injectors etc) hide the catch can under the exhaust manifold, shove a little filter on top and run a separate 3/4" hose to the sump. The biggest advantage of doing this is the sump is now venting to atmo so there's considerably less pressure if any within the sump, power increases 'slightly' and oil is able to drain from the head back to the sump considerably quicker. We all know RB's tend to throw a lot of oil in to the head, that oil then struggles to return to the sump. Remove the sump pressure and it greatly aids oil return from the head. I personally am a fan of 'slightly' restricting oil to the head combined with venting the sump. Do it once do it properly.

Scooby.... Ear muffs/det cans.

V44 only handles high impedance so you'll need a resistor pack. The V88 handles both + it also has knock detection unlike the V44. Graham West in Adelaide has been running the Vipecs on the skylines adn other cars for some time now. He's good but he's expensive. Personally I'd prefer to grab the one install myself and have my own tuner tune it for a few hundred. I remember reading some where the V44 handles external knock input so that may be another option. Really comes down to the price of the V44 plugin vs V88. I'm a bit of a fiddler so I'd love to ditch the PowerFC, plug the Vipec in with a wideband/laptop and get that tune 11ty billion percent spot on.

3lit3 32, You've missed the critical 'modification'. A JUN pump with std restrictors. The car has been tuned as such it has seen high rpm. Given a Jun pump was fitted without oil restrictors it sounds like a half arsed build. Mine with close a little over 90psi >4000rpm prior to restrictors and tuning up over 5000rpm it was filling the covers to the point where I could see the cam lobes working well 'under' the oil with the level touching the filler cap as it screwed in, yes on the dyno oil pressure was showing signs of slight surge and that was stationary. :S Head off restrictors fitted and zero drama's since then on. My bet is the car was tuned then given a little hiding on the street, its surged and she's popped. Regardless it needs to be built again with the oiling problems these motors have addressed. Make sure the block is cleaned properly, bottom end line bored and clearances spot on.

I only ever used to buy the ZOOM mag for the tech articles in them. Remembering back to the days of Tim @ RPM testing their R33 GTST's fuel pressure bleeder (of which mine was a test car for early in the piece) as well as pressure drop across the std IC core. Then the old R31 rb20det 220rwkw build up at Tilbrooks. Back in the day... They were educational build ups. Maybe run a no bullshit article on the difference between an IW split vs bell dump. Why the split makes more power if any when vented to atmo or plumbed back in (slight boost creep = more power typically with splits (JJR style etc) that are plumbed back in)

Track grip days are typically no issues when it comes to being defected when leaving. Drift prac days etc is where you have to shove the car on a trailer in fear of being defected when leaving.

Now issues. Now. But as with everything it depends on the hardware. Mines a fairly basic setup. Intel cpu, intel chipset m/board, nvidia 8x vid card, 2 large hard drives, dvdrom for the Wii and a nice pioneer burner. Windows is rock solid I don't have any issues with games programs. Like yourself when it was first released pre-sp1 I tried x64 and it was crap, wasn't too keen on vista x86 back then due to 2gb not running all that flash when you throw a decent game and vmware at it so I dropped back to XP. Sp1 came around and decided to install x64; felt slow so threw another 2 gb at it. x64 does need 4gb other wise it feels a little chuggy. Running 2gb with vista felt slower than xp with 2gb. Vista with 4gb is noticeably snappier than xp.

I can confirm its definitely for Imports with Shannons. I had mine replaced not so long ago due to a truck flicking up a stone creating a few runners.

I am running a copy of Windows 7 in VMware under Vista x64. Runs really well with 1gb assigned. If you want to use the full 4gb simply download Windows 7 x64

I always use a flux pen when soldering loom wires. The solder sucks in to the wire and provides a much better join not to mention it makes life so much easier and quicker when soldering.

Even with stock ecu still definitely have to check the ignition timing and adjust to 20degrees BTDC. Something is definitely up if a 8.6:1 motor with turbo cams is pinging at light load. Its unlikely it will be an ignition timing issue but rather something else that should be sorted asap. Might not even be pinging.

I'm running a GTR 3 puk Exedy with no issues. Drives really well, I would have to say smoother and easier than the old xtreme 9puk. The Xtreme clutches have some crappy ceramic material that welds to the flywheel when driven hard.

Internal gates that spike then tail off increasing preload will only exsasabate the problem. Best off with new set of actuators that are stiffer and setup them up with 2-3mm max preload. Duncan, Tested a regular bleeder to see how it reacts? Turned off the ebc to see if the spike is still there 'slightly'. It might just be the ebc is on its way out or the the <b>start boost</b> is set too high. and last of all... have a little fiddle with cam timing. I would assume the tuner knows how to setup the ebc correctly. Incorrectly set start boost and gain can cause this exact problem.

-Cat = +Flames

You will need to run an additional o2, afm and air temp sensor to your ecu plug. The o2 and afm need to be bridged to the existing. Then..... you will need the ecu remapped as it simply will not run with the base maps.

Home entertainment is fine IMO; ego boosting is just a plain annoyance.

Leave the restricter out. Bigger the better. Bigger = slower air and a greater chance of oil dropping out of it. Its only useful for the std setup that uses the PCV valve.

I picked up my GT30/35 XR6T style flange from MTQ. It was an open flange so no divider. http://www.mtqes.com.au/