SLAPS

The water injection kit was a home made kit. No damage to the turbo was visible when it was pulled off. Unable to provide any further information on parts used etc.

Nice build.. So all nuts and bolts double checked this time around? It will be good to see how it performs on E85.

What size is the turbine housing? .82 or 1.06? I personally am not a fan of the 82mm comp wheel paired with the 60mm GT30 turbine wheel. It makes for a lazy turbo that needs good fuel to make the most of it. They were good back in the day when the 76mm (HKS3037S) style compressor wheel wasn't available for the Garrett line up.

A bloke here in SA runs Water injection pre turbo and was pushing close to 500rwkw on a standard rod and cast piston RB30ET + cams and springs. Motor was fine until the alternator decided to let go causing a lean out and broken ring lands. Prior to that it was solid for quite some time. Without the water injection the power made on pump fuel simply would not be possible.

29yo Rating 1 NCB - Shannons agreed value, mods listed $800pa Excess $450 off the top of my head. Excess with Shannons is bugger all. Also have the VX through Shannons as they were cheaper than any one else.

Item: RB20DET Long Motor Item Condition: Complete apart from missing - Cam shafts, 1 or 2 cam caps, Oil pump Extra Info: Was running; it was going to be a spare motor but ended up picking parts off it over time. - The lifters are still there so if anything its worth it just for the lifters. Contact Details: Via PM. Price and price conditions: Free, Zero, Zilch. You come and get it. The motors not that heavy; 2 grown men can lift it. If not I can hook it up to the block and tackle.

I use a Dewalt rattle gun for crap like this. Has plenty of balls; no issues removing the bolts out of a diffs ring gear, flywheels etc. Rattle Gun + Press + Welder are the most useful tools one can own.

Wii Fit is quite good. Along with Family Ski I also have another Skate boarding game that uses the balance board. Difficult to get the hang of at first but great once you do.

I own both. The R32 with 200kw will kick a stock 220-250kw LS1 auto or manual. Tweak the LS1 with an exhaust, inlet and edit making 210-240rwkw and its a no show for the R32 or an R33 until 140-150km/h+ only then the Skyline might catch it slowly. The LS1 auto's when tweaked are damn quick off the line. Extremely difficult to keep with. A mate of mine with his R33 200rwkw tuned, fmic, exhaust knows all about it. My little R32 on the other hand is up over 400rwhp; even still off the line I can't really keep with the LS1. When 80km/h approaches the R32 sails by rapidly click third and it looks like the LS1 has hit its brakes. But thats useless for the street. IMO there's no point owning a high performance street car that is only good up over 100km/h as a result of lag or lack of lag inducing wheel spin. All round performance I find the LS1 quicker on the street, it grips changes gears fast and hard and is great on fuel (once tuned). It see's 12.5-13L/100. The R32 doesn't lag (20psi by 3000rpm) spins the first couple of gears too easily even with sticky tyres; its really a 3rd gear 80-100km/h car. Love the LS1 as a daily chirping its gears at 1/4 throttle with its stock tranny and a tuned ecu. Awesome what they can do with ECU's and trans control these days. Press that power button and it completely transforms the car in to a gear holding, small throttle input kick back, gear chirping monster. LOL - The LS1 doesn't even need forged pistons to sound like the skyline's piston slap forged motor on cold start first thing in the morning.

Who cares if its 'uncool'. It was never designed to be a poser. Practicality, excellent performance and tunability with an awesome price tag that serves it to the other supercars.

If its a smooth rev with no misfiring it might be going lean. Throw it on the dyno and see whats playing up. Personally I recommend Boostworx but all the workshops Damo listed have a good rep.

T-bolt clamp. If it still does it (running no bov and 20+psi) shove some Hylomar on the pipe then clamp over it. She won't move then.

Will have to see how the japcrap fairs against some good old V8 power with poor build quality. GT28 or GT30 on that RB25 Tangles.

I see you had some good results with E85 RB25DETS2. 323rwkw out of the .6 rear, std top end, std exh. manifold. Damn impressive.

Don't waste your $$ if you don't have to. Grab a $13 tube of sensor safe grey silicon plaster your coils and they will be good for 24psi+. Over 1.5years ago mine were no good for more than 12psi. Since then I've been running 20psi through them. When tuning we pushed in 24psi with no signs of ign. break down.

Spoolup has a to4z on his rb30det. There's a few dyno sheets on the link below. http://www.spoolimports.com/content/SpoolImportsR33.asp R34 NEO head - HKS 272 / 9.35 cams, Performance Valve Springs Garrett T04Z turbo 0.96 ex housing 23psi 581rwhp. The boosts knee so to speak appears to be a little after 4000rpm. A pair of 272 10.5mm lift cams would work much better on his setup. As for a GT35 pushing more than a genuine 400rwkw (535rwhp) on the RB with pump fuel. I'm not a believer.

The AVCR is useful with internal gates to prevent boost drop. As is the blitz sbc-id range. The greedy profec B spec II is also able to help prevent boost drop but doesn't do it as well as the avcr. IMO... If you are spending the $$ grab the AVCR and have some one set it up on the dyno who knows how to work them. When setup correctly the AVCR is an awesome ebc. Setup poorly and they are one of the worse. Middle ground best bang for buck; you really can't go wrong with the profec b.

Hey Disco, I considered swapping the male plug over on my Z32 (the std afm being the donor) but decided against molstering my shinny new z32 and simply spliced the VL afm plug in to the existing loom. Nice and tidy and provides provision for plugging the stock afm back should the need arise. Out of the std afm's I've repaired I have not come across a s2 r33 one as of yet. If the male plug dimensions are the same it would be a simple matter of de-solder from the pcb then resolder the new male plug, 2 screws and a little black silicon.

Sell the bov. Many cars out there (street/rally/grip/drift) that run without them and have no reliability issues. The response gained when running no bov out weighs any driveability or if it concerns you emission negatives. I've ran 20psi for a good 30k and not one issue. Prior I had run 100,000km's on the std ceramic turbo @ 1bar and again no issues.

http://www.news.com.au/adelaidenow/story/0...29-2682,00.html

Excellent advice. I had my RB30DET line bored when it was built up back in 2004. 4 years later and 100,000km's often hitting its 7300rpm limiter its still holding together. Std rods, forged pistons and King Bi-metal bearings + all the little bits you do the bottom end set me back a shade under 4k. I found some of the 'performance' workshops the be the slackest of all. I ended up having the motor built by the enthusiastic blokes down at City Dismantlers. They had heaps of time for me asking questions and what not. They knew what had to be done to the bottom ends of the rb30 to make them hold together at high rev's. Importantly they stuck to the quote (once the motor had been inspected) and time frame. Just under 3 weeks from drop off to pickup with the motor all strapped to a crate and wrapped in plastic. All the spare/left over parts were bubble wrapped and placed in to a box. Extremely organised.

My GTR injectors max'd out at 260rwkw. A little fuel pressure has seen them touch 300rwkw; its been running like this for a good year. All fuel hoses etc replaced along with orings etc. --- Why not size the injectors to handle E85? Future proof if you like.

Top work Darren.. Love the Rifle's scope.

RB30's have pushed 400-500rwkw internally stock with water/meth so no reason why the rb25 can't providing fuel is sufficient.

Depends if you were wearing 'nickers' or not.