SLAPS

Who's pulled their pump recently to checkout their sock after running E85? Almost thinking its a bogus pic. :S

Nothing wrong with the old LS1. I believe I have the best of both worlds. Mildly tweaked LS1 Wagon for a daily/family/tow car that goes pretty damn well and will win 9/10 traffic light gran prixers to 100km/h but also have the nice little raw R32 RB30DET. They are two completely different cars. I personally much prefer driving the tweaked LS1 auto on the street. Returns an average of 13L/100 and I don't baby it. Its an easier smoother and it does launch out of the hole damn hard. When I want the hairs on my neck to stand on end with the rear swaying slightly from side to side at 150km/h in to fourth I jump in the R32. I am a V8 man at heart. When the RB30DET pops I'm seriously considering an VH41/45 DE T or TT.

Wait until you make 400rwkw first. The journey is always eventful. If its not one thing its another thing stopping power being made right off the bat. The GT35 on an RB30 making low 300rwkw's is still fairly tractable.

I'm with Gary. Mines up over 300rwkw with an RB30DET, comes on relatively smooth but has bulk torque form 3500rpm onwards. Stock suspension was a joke the rear end would sit down unevenly, strangely the left would dip and create a taily rear. Possibly a stuffed shock. I fitted a set of harder teins, instantly I noticed the rear would squat evenly. It hooked up better and twin wheel in a near straight line. I then dropped the front of the cradle ~12mm and fitted a mechanical diff with wheel alignment - 0.5neg rear camber. The cradle rake really made the biggest difference as you could feel it absorb a little of the drive line shock + when it was spinning it went from spinning on the spot to what felt like spinning but strangely accelerating damn hard. 18's were too slippery even with wide tyres. Best grip I've found is with a good set of 16's. I've found with 17's you need to jump up ~2 sizes to obtain the same grip for if your running the same overall dia. compared to the 16's. No doubt a set of purpose built springs and shocks will improve grip 10 fold. For a good handling + straight line grip I believe I've found a nice balance. The issue with launching a manual RWD skyline quick and clean is it requires you to slip the clutch some what. With making over 500hp you typically need a clutch that doesn't like being slipped so its either have a nice clean launch or kill your clutch. If your experiencing traction problems with near 400hp (200-230rwkw) you need to ditch the low profiles, look at the condition of your diff and finally look at your driving/launching style.

According to the GPS its around 6%. So Speedo reads 6% higher than road speed. 6km/h at 100km/h, your really doing 94km/h. Saves on speeding fines.

Hopefully it would never be pushed through but if it were.... People will try their luck and do a runner as in their eyes there would be bugger all to loose, especially for the youngans where their car is everything... If the officers car is far enough away.... will be the mentality. There will no doubt be a lot more 'my car was stolen' reports following runner incidents. lol.

lol that bloke ripped off my pdf guide i made some time ago Pics, price and all. There should be a pdf guide in the tutorial section of sau. My speedo drive (as pictured in that link) is still running strong. I simply pressed mine on, didn't bother with glue or split pin. $49 expensive???

Has the car been hit with a timing light on a power run to ensure the cas is playing nicely? Or at least swapped out the cas?

I've been through a LOT of aftermarket clutch master cylinders. They appear to last around 40,000km's behind a heavy clutch. Spend the extra $50 go genuine.

Difficult to tell.. There should be a part number embossed on the box. The rb20 awd box has slightly short ratios, a good thing for the average gtr. Most likely because the rb20 box hasn't ever really received a smashing but from what I've seen they tend to be a strong box.

I occasionally catch my stock gauge on 0. Watch it long enough while its idling away and all of a sudden it flings to 2kg/cm2. Get an aftermarket on it.

I had a better pic of it.. The 4" appears to mould in nicely. As for mild or stainless it depends what is available and which is cheapest. I have no issues with mild. Pics attached of my current 3" dump. I tend to visualise the wastegate gasses smashing in to the path of the turbine wheel reducing turbine efficiency creating the boost drop issue I've always had regardless of power being made (before cams)

LOL that didn't take long for a bite. Checked out a few pics of my old RB20. She has L7 on the head. I did notice the inlet ports had what looked like some sort of sprayed on rough coating of which was not on my Rb25DE head. Hard to tell from the pic but it definitely looked sprayed on. For reference - I've attached a pic of the RB20L7 inlet manifold port with the rb25de gasket sitting over the top. The RB25de ports are ~5mm wider each side.

The secrets out... Troy is so quick because he must be running one of those R32 homligation/cheater special rb20's I'll check my photo's when I get home see if i can grab one with the head cast numbers.

Good point. I completely forgot about the old redtops and NICS. In my post I was referring to the Silver tops

Sure its an RB20 head? My R32 RB25DE from memory has L6 stamped in. Ports are quite a bit bigger as well as the combustion chamber (obviously) and valves. Grab some measurements will be interesting to see. I'll double check my pics and the measurements I took. From memory the RB25DE head was ~4.5-5mm wider so 10mm overall compared to the old 1992 RB20DET head. When talking to nissan regarding inlet gaskets there was only 1 gasket for the 20 and 1 for the r32 rb25 of which was fairly rare understandably. Externally unless u have a keen eye for the valve and combustion chamber size (most noticeable is the quench areas of the rb25) the R32 RB25DE head looks identical to that of an RB20DET. The RB20 head has next to no quench pads in comparison to the r32 25 head.

Hey All, I currently have a 3" dump hanging off the end of my xr6t style rear housing however I wish to make it a little bigger XR6T's have seen some really good gains around 300rwkw by stepping up to a 4" bell mouth dump from the usual 3-3.5" split. So squashing/bashing/bending the 4" 90degree bend. I figured I'd grab some plate to make a dummy flange, cut the flange in half having two of the flange sides on opposite ends of the pipe, then attempt to squash the pipe in to shape using the press. The other idea was to grab some plate again except cut an inverted version of the flange (i.e inside of the flange) and then slowly bash the dump in and pull the top out to sit on the outside of my inverted flange. It should then sit nicely inside the proper flange. Can any one provide any tips? Might have to head down and hire an Oxy I'm thinking.

I've got a set of Siemens 750cc's for mine.

If its a r32 rb20 actuator it will definitely be running 9-10psi. Back when I ran the rb20, stock turbo and stock exhaust with compliance cat it was running 9psi. Full 3" boost rose to 11-12psi. Hows the cat? All though unlikely IMO checked for boost leaks?

The allen key socket you use to remove the headbolts ensure its a long one unless you plan on removing the cams to get at the head bolts.

Nice results. How is part throttle boost around 2500-3000rpm? Given the power you estimate if it shows true on the dyno its a damn good alternative to the gt30 and 35. I presume you have a little cradle angle pushed in? If found this to soften the blow of a hard boost transition giving the tyres the best change to hook up.

If the turbo is hitting the strut tower it must be fair tilted over. I dropped mine 13 and 14mm. However since its settled over the years (fitted new engine mounts) it does appear to be sitting a tad lower. If I jack up the car the sway bar slightly kisses the sump.

Had no issues in the past with the twin spray 800/850 sards. They tune up quite nicely.

IMO its either rb30det or the ls1/ls2. Owning a mild ls1 they are quite a good motor. They rev hard and have buckets of torque with pretty damn good economy. The old buik v6's make my ears bleed, they are horrid sounding things not to mention they don't really get up and go unless they have a decent turbo or two shoved on to them.

Regardless of what specs state the T04S 7 blade GT3076r is a crappy thing. The -12 is what you want; if you can't then its either the 3071r or the 3082r. The GT3071's tend to make power easier than them. :S