SLAPS

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15psi Garrett Actuator to suit GT28/30/35 Internal Gate $80 Including Postage Australia Wide

Also interested... Possibly see if a better price can be done if 10 or 15 are sold 'at once'?

Unpatiently awaits for the 'decent' 120 odd GB SSD's to drop from the 600+ price range. The degraded over time write speeds appear to be sorted with the higher end SSD's via their TRIM/WIPE programs (until Windows 7 that is) now the wait for the price to drop.

hrmm.. have you considered a cheap rb30 build? Stock rods, forged pistons; limit revs to 7k and it will make an easy 300-400rwkw on pump with next to no lag.

Hope its running a stroker kit and throw a set of R32 GTS4 diff gears at it; she will need it. I came across a bloke that makes 4wd adaptors for the LS1 block to suit Patrols as well as gearbox adaptors. Surely it wouldn't be too hard to rig something up for a light LS1 in to an R32 GTR. Strap on a turbo or two; now that would be fun.

Very unfortunate. Clearly Mike and his cronies know SFA on how to combat street racing. Rann.. Please take the advice of Interstate; help get this drag strip up and running AND 'help' make it affordable. Develop a program to encourage civilians to take it to the track, combine it with anti-hoon laws and you have a comprehensive package. Time to swallow their pride and really take some action.

2835pros on an rb25 my vote goes with the 252 9mm cams. A GT30 or larger with a .82 rear i'd look at the 260's.

The std bovs are quite good. Block the little bleeder hole in them and they work as well as a tight 'good' aftermarket. I blocked my std bov off some time ago as I don't see the need for one + I prefer the slight dose noise over an airy whosh bov sound.

Ahh its not so much about picking up extra power its making the same power with less boost. Not an issue with E85 but definitely with pump as you run in to det issues well before your able to crack MTBT. Fuel economy with mine is around 450km's per 50liters and I don't baby it. Interestingly if I do baby it there's bugger all difference in economy.

Name change to SLAPS please.

Power has nothing to do with AFM's. If you max the afm you can still tune for peak power. Just means there's a point when its ramping up on to boost where its a little rich and missing a little ignition timing as that 'load point' is tuned expecting more airflow which requires more fuel and less ignition.

I wouldn't bother spending on an EBC just yet. Run either a cheap MBC or throw a stiffer actuator at it for ~$200 fitted.

Unsure if you have modified the inlet yet but with a nice exhaust manifold and inlet manifold mid 260's make their peak power around 7000rpm. Look at Al's RB30det for example, nice inlet and exhaust mani with baby 256 cams but that too also holds well to 8000rpm and with some absolutely ripping mid range. Mine with 265's idles baby smooth but if slightly leaned out on idle it will start to cam over 'slightly'. So tune it slightly lean on idle and then enable the o2 to pull it in when you want it to idle smooth. Mine went from ~14degree's on 17psi to ~20-21degree's at peak power and made an extra ~30rwkw on pump. Went from nosing over after it made peak power at 6000rpm to holding power flat for an extra almost 1500rpm, when tweaked with gears peak power is up 500rpm and still holds just as well with no loss in power to 7500rpm (my limiter is also at 7300rpm as Im still running the factory balancer) The ramp rate on my 265's are a little more aggressive that the grind you will be getting Mine have 227.9 degree's at 1mm vs 216degree's at 1mm for yours so mine run a ramp rate similar to their 270degree grind. hrmm.. In stating that I'd almost be inclined to run the 270's.

Speak to that RacerR33 bloke as he used to track his RB30/25 making up around 500rwhp. There was a bloke on ct.com that raced his VLT with full slicks. RB30SOHC making up around 700hp; setup on the engine dyno etc never had issues with breaking stuff.

EJ20? Spool I very difficult one to compare as a result of gearing and how one tests where 'full boost' is. My experience driving a few setups over the years... GT35r .82 on an RB30DET top gear loaded up would see 17psi around 3100rpm. Normal driving conditions in second gear leaving a corner it would punch hard around 3600rpm. GT35r .82 on an RB25DET top gear loaded up would see 17-18psi around 3700-3800rpm. Normal driving conditions in second gear leaving a corner it would punch hard around 4200rpm. The biggest noticeable difference between the two setups was the 3ltr made more boost earlier providing a more linear power curve where as the 2.5ltr would go from what felt like nothing to everything.

Is that the GT or RS core? HDI GT kits go for 500-550ish where as the RS (100mm) goes for 700ish. 850 imo is a little pricey.

Alf, I'm not keen on the position of those stands. :S I used to place mine there until one day I noticed how much the front end drooped as I released the jack. Probably nothing to worry about but sort of freaked me a little so I now place the stands under the cross member.

My 32 GTST brakes feel light for I'd say 1/8 of its total travel but with good pads that light area also is very grabby. When jumping out of the Commodore in to the Skyline that light area and its extreme grabyyness is a little annoying when pulling up to a stop as it causes you not to brake smoothly. The pedal then quickly but progressively goes wood hard and gives very good pedal feel to stop a wheel or two locking under hard brakes. Running Feredo Pads, Nulon brake fluid - non-ABS. The commodore on the other hand provides a good firm pedal through the whole of travel but when braking hard the pedal squishes reducing lockup control but really its no biggie as by that time the ABS does its thing, the Commodore also has a master cyl brace standard.

How do the R32's fair with the rack spacers? I've recently reco'd the front end with new bits and when bleeding the rack I noticed there's only ~5mm clearance between the chassis rail and the inside of the tyre on full lock. A pic I found to help others visualise. I presume the 5mm less thread inside of the rack poses no issues with strength when clipping the odd ripple strip?

Take it for a power flush and rod the radiator. Involves disconnecting the heater pressure flushing heater and block. If you do run an engine flush without a pressure flush grab a stocking and shove it over the top and bottom rad outlets to catch any crap.

Where peak power lands, how well the motor holds on to its peak power and gearing is a biggie. For example.. An RB30DET with stock cams, stock inlet making 300rwkw+ where power noses over after 6000rpm isn't going to net a decent mph given the power its making. Along comes an RB25 with the same peak power that holds on to its power instead of nosing over - it runs a higher MPH. Drop a set of cams in to the RB30, have it making the same peak power figure but due to the cams power holds on flat for near 1500rpm odd and up goes that MPH.

Unix.. I think you worry too much. The BB Garrett turbo's all have a spinning almost slight sound when you turn off the motor. If the bearings were stuffed you'd know about it on boost as the comp wheel will suck forward kissing the comp cover providing you with a nice loud screech.

The Skylines aren't like the old Holdens and Fords where if you have a broken mount the shifter very noticeably flings to the right and you see the back of the bonnet pop up. I'm on my second set of engine mounts. Its generally sticky tyres that breaks them as street tyres can rarely hook up well enough.

The tuner is right but maybe he's describing the problem poorly. The turbo's are near their limit so they will be running in to choke and unnecessarily heating the air... BUT.... More boost = increased inlet temps regardless if its 390rwhp or 490rwhp. As you are starting to push near 300rwkw you may wish to consider a 100mm thick bar/plate if you haven't already. The stock gtr or cheap ebay 76mm coolers start to struggle as they approach 300rwkw (400rwhp). When I say struggle I mean internal flow restricts airflow creating a pressure drop. If the FMIC is creating up to a 5psi pressure drop at 500hp worth of air the turbo will be pushing 20psi if your running 15psi at the plenum. Its a vicious circle. With the heat of 20psi comes greatly increased inlet temps so not only does the ol' fmic have to deal with trying to pass the air it also has to try and cool a much greater temp. If you were to drop in a set of cams the restriction would be less as such the demand on your FMIC would be less. But do consider the 'whole package' (FMIC and Cams to make the most out of your setup) it may not be as simple as dropping in a set of cams as the turbos will be running slightly in to choke and pushing out some fairly hot air as a result. I personally wouldn't do both at once as I haven't had experience with your particular setup. I would look at a decent 100mm FMIC before I would consider cams as 15psi is bugger all. EDIT: Well... That will 'learn' me from having a few too many JD's and jumping straight on to SAU not reading a full thread. 45degree's inlet temp are fine, 3psi pressure drop 'ok'. As others have now suggested. Look at cam timing due to the additional block height it may be out pushing up the mid range and un-necessarily killing top end or it may be completely out of whack unnecessarily killing power everywhere. I've always dialed my cams in so no issues. I can't say I've seen anywhere near 16degree's AD though. Its only ever been a 2-3 degree's out.