SLAPS

Boostworxs.

I run a Cometic MLS. No issues with up to mid 20psi; even had it off and reused with a little coat of Hylomar. Cheap for $220 odd.

The GT3040 1.06 feels much like the GT35r .82. IMO GT35r .82 is a much better option for the RB30. Now the HKS3037S is now available from garrett (GT3076r .6 port shroud comp cover) the list goes.... GT3076r .82 (pump fuel tops out around 320rwkw with cams, E85 tops out around 350-360rwkw with stock cams/manifold) GT35r .82 (with suitable cams and exh. manifold tops out around 380-390rwkw on pump fuel, E85 who knows) Drop the GT3040 from the line up. It was only a viable option when the good GT3076 wasn't available. I wouldn't bother with any smaller than the GT3076r .82 on the RB30 they have next to zero lag and respond unbelievably in first and second gear. Feels much like a factory turbo'd car but with a hell of a lot more grunt.

People do speed to and from Mallala so why defect stations, this only prevents people from attending such events and keeps it ON the street. Spend the $$ on increasing the number of speed camera's or laser guns. I too have seen the defect stations but then carried on to see a lack of speed laser/camera's with some overtaking at crazy speeds. Modifying will never be stopped so why not try to stop the behaviour on the street and encourage 'hoons' to take it to the track.

I found the police officers opinion on car crushing the most interesting. We really need a drag strip here in SA with a reasonable entry charge so those that do street race realise how crappy it is when you can't really give it all she has without fear of being busted or some one pulling out in front.

<click> Unsure if this has been posted but quite an interesting perspective none the less.

Thanks. PM Sent.

RB30 dipstick + check oil when cold not warm.

Big bonnet scoop? There are some fairly major clearance issues dropping the rb30 in to a s13 chassis.

Mine took a while to stop using oil. Oil usage was at its highest in the first 1000km's and then slowly tapered off until ~5000km's is where it wasn't using any. Wiseco forged pistons with the std ring pack, slight slap on cold start up. The motors done over 100,000km's now and still doesn't use a drop.

Definitely. Mine was on pulp.

Yeah but I hate molesting my car. Its black, stock looking and I really want to keep it looking that way but that may change

Mine was doing 5v at 302rwkw and prior 4.8v at 270rwkw. 444 injectors maxed at 250-260rwkw and needed fuel pressure to get to 300rwkw. 320rwkw with 5.1v. That nengun link - Tomie is just a Z32, 500ps/hp is 'little' over 300rwkw. I've also seen a Q45 max out earlier than the Z32; not sure what was up with that. Same dyno the std rb20/25 afm was maxed a little over 180rwkw. I'm moving away from afm. Looking in to the ViPec 'possibly' there still appears to be a few little niggly's with them though. Even if the afm is max'd you can still bodgily tune it. The problem is there needs to be a little head room so on those cool nights it doesn't lean out or det.

I was simply curious how changing the rear track to improve clearance would neg affect handling if any. i.e rear track being less or more than front track etc.. Either way I spoke to the Troymeister; I will be fine with a 245 semi slick on the rear and rolled guards. Semi's are apparently wider that the same sized road tyre so I shouldn't fit a 255 on the 9" rim as it will bulge a little too much. Troy runs a 9.5" rear with rolled guards and no issues due to ride height. I'm running 350mm with plenty of clearance so dare so I will be fine also.

Whats the rear offset?

The issue is I am trying to get as much semi-slick tyre under the rear as I can. I doubt I'll be able to pull safely off any more than 2-3mm. Either way these rims will do for now; I just don't like the idea of spending 1.5-2k on a set of rims when the car is only used for a little fun at the track and not driven on the street. Not when your already at semi-slick level.

I'm hoping a 255, as much + offset I can squeeze, a rolled guard and a little little camber it will just fit. :S In comparison to the std wheels the nuts screw on to the threads bugger all so fingers crossed there's plenty of meat.

Hi All, I have a set of jap rims which are: F: 17x8" +38 R: 17x9" +38 The rims are surprisingly light; the fronts are slightly lighter than the std gtst rims where as the rears feel about the same. The fronts sit nice with a 235 no scrubbing. The rears however with a 255 are an issue. I've spoken to wheelworks who said a manufacturer 'typically' makes a larger cast and then machines down the hub slightly to achieve a given offset. So.. heaps of meat on mine (looks like a built in spacer) I am looking at machining down the hubs slightly to say a +45 on the rear so I can run a wider rear tyre without scrub and excessive camber. With the 17x9" +38 there's 14-15mm clearance between the wheel and the hicas tie rod end so plenty of room for a +45. With a +45 on the rear the front and rear outer edge of the wheel will closer to being equal. Compared to stock wheels. 17x8 +38 sit out +21mm 17x9 +38 sit out +34mm Where as 17x9 +45 sit out +27mm. Should I go more than +45 given there's still another few mm available? As I am moving the rear wheels in closer to each other will it be less likely to under steer but possibly be a little more over steery?

Have a look at the roll centre. With the GTST I find if I go any lower than ~345-350mm it looks as if the lower control arms start to level with the cross member (up front) and then if I push it to 340mm the cross member is noticably lower than the lower control arms. Dare say its approximately the same with the R32 GTR. I've got the front of mine at 345 and rear at 350 as when the rear is slightly lower it tends to understeer and simply feels a little nicer with it sitting just that little bit higher. From what I've been told don't go too low as it messes with the roll centre.

Pete, Another mod is to relieve/vent the pressure in the sump to a catch can. Also works as a catch can drain if needed which it won't.

Tangles.. I looked in to this some time ago. Doesn't work out too expensive if you grab the bits from ebay.

ROFL! Definitely agree. Mine has a fair bit of oil pressure over 3500-4000rpm (~90-95psi). Without the oiling mods the cam covers were filling on the dyno to the point where I could only just see the lobes poking through the top of the oil level, oil was blowing out and filling the catch cans in no time. After the oiling mods there's only a slight puddle of oil after a hard extended run and no oil in the catch cans.

Ahh well at least they were decent about it and didn't decide to defect. So props to the Sturt Police officers. Its likely it was the few unit/houses across the road; one of the blokes has a really nice older ford from memory. Maybe he no likey the jap crap.

I don't like it... Please explain...

Awesome, congrats.