mosquitocoils

Nah mine has that too, just take your wheel nuts off, remove the wheel, and re-centre it and tighten everything back up. Happened to me twice when I was in the process of replacing a shock absorber. One wheel nut was just not quite tight enough, and the wheel would kind of vibrate on an angle if that makes sense.

This seems to have been asked every 2nd day this week... My guess would be the relay box (inside the door panel) has some crappy solder connections. Happened to me, twice. Happens to a lot of people. You can take it out and try to fix the joints if you're handy with a soldering iron, or if you're lazy (like me!) go to the wreckers, they're about $75-150 depending. I think S1 and S2 are different.

Thanks for that Dan. Adjusted mine last night to about 0.48v... was originally at 0.40. My idle increase up from 750 to 1100 when I did it, what does that indicate? I've now adjusted the idle screw on the AAC valve back down so that it's running around 750 again now.

Doh! Yeah that probably would've helped hahahaha.

Check out this post right above yours: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fe...32-t260461.html

Take the door trim off, and pull out the switch relay box (bolted into the door itself is the black box, held on with 2 screws). Pull it apart and check for crappy solder joints, try and fix them and see how you go. Worse comes to worse, new relays are $75-150 from wreckers.

Splitfire coilpacks run about $600 give or take... it's mainly the fact that they're brand new that gives the illusion that they work better than stock. I have them in my car. You could try siliconing your coilpacks up, there's a tutorial in DIY section.

Time to clean your AAC valve.

Will try!

Could be clutch (very likely), but could also just be general maintenence issue like spark plugs, crap built up in pipes etc... Could also just be the 'flat spot' in the rb25's around 4500 rpm then it'll kick back in around 6000ish. Or could just be operator error!

Yeah keen for a northside meetup!

I'll get some pics of it soon, probably on the weekend when I next look at it... it's not GREAT cause I used this as my very first time practice of spraying, but at least it is the same colour now! What I did: Sanded the original back. Primer. Colour. Clear coat. Cutting compound to cut the rough looking top of the clear coat back. But I can't get it to look all shiny like my actual car paint. Anyone have any hints?

I have a mongoose too and I'd say it would need to be re-programmed but I don't have any evidence to suggest that, just me thinking 'it should be set up properly' hahaha... I wanted a gizmo for a while, but settled for my mini timer in ash tray and manual boost controller, so I'd say go to the trouble of getting it installed and set up properly and you'll love it.

That is just plain robbery... they're about 200 AUD here, or I believe 80 to go for a 'generic' brand which works just as well. Maybe some nice person on the forums would be willing to sell you one?

Thanks for that mate, I was wondering. Can anyone else verify how quickly it's meant to fluctuate between high and low voltages? I remember vaguely that mine went up and down maybe every second or 2 but sometimes would stick low for a couple of seconds.

Mate if it helps I picked up one from a wreckers for $20, sanded back and resprayed it with the same colour maroon as my car. Good luck!

HAHAHAHA WHAT THE HELLLLLLLL

I'd say around 300-400 tops. I was charged 700ish from memory for the clutch + install, my clutch was exedy OEM replacement so was fairly cheap.

Hahahahaha yeah.... to be honest I HATED the coilovers. Waaaayy too stiff for street use which is all it will see while in my possession, other than the odd drag soon.

Hahahaha loving the sig!

Hey all, some of you might know me from this site, some might not. Either way, I've had my skyline for 9 months or so, and my journey has been interesting. I've learnt a LOT along the way, about RB's, and about cars in general. I thought I'd share my story of dealing with Tuff Toys. So around December 08 - Jan 09 I started looking for a car. I had a falcon at the time and wanted something japanese and turbo! Test drove a couple of 180s and silvia's, drooled over an S15 or two but they were plain out of my price range. A couple of months before this, my workmate and I noticed Tuff Toys moved into Virginia, next to All Jap... we both drove past it each day on the way to work and always talked about how much we both wanted a sick car from there... hahaha. Went in and spoke to them, told them what I was after and they were happy to help me out, let me test drive one of their 180s I had my eye on, and were always happy to have a chat and answer any questions I had - and I had a lot hahahaha. Their cars were a bit out of my price range, fair enough. I ended up finding my 33 at another car yard at Motorscene at Albion, simply because it was cheap. Had a friend look it over and I was sold. Over the next couple of months I took my car to Tuff Toys to replace/upgrade a few basic things: Oil, fluids, and filter change straight away I had them take out the coilovers that were in there and replace with stock shocks and kings low springs Brake pads/rotors All 3 of my 3 month/5000km services so far (could do them myself but I need it done by a shop for my warranty) They've also helped me out with figuring out weird noises (boost leak from BOV gasket) and helped me reconnect my turbo timer when its wires came loose in the dash because I was fiddling in there (!). They taught me about my manual boost controller and told me how to connect it/reconnect it (I wanted to DIY it to learn how it worked at the time), as well as helped me out with a multitude of noobish questions from me and have always been more than happy to help me out without charging for stuff like that. They've never stuffed me around, and I've never been surprised at the cost. If anything 'bigger' had to be done, they've let me know and told me how serious it is and how long until I'd need to do it - which is EXACTLY what I want in a mechanic. If you need anything mechanical done, I'd have no problem recommending them to the skyline community. Wayne knows his skylines and has realistic expectations from them. Anyway, my two cents. Cheers.

I would definately have your timing checked/adjusted by a mechanic, even just to rule it out. Put the splitfires back in (if you have access to them) to rule out your coilpacks. I'd also run 6 series plugs around 1.0mm if you're comfortable with that. I was going to gap mine down to 0.8 after reading everything here, but several mechanics and friends in real life told me that I won't benefit from it unless I'm actually having an issue...so I went to 1.0 with splitfires, haven't had an issue yet... Having said all this, you didn't mention missfiring, so I doubt it's a sparking problem. I would also either hook up your stock boost solenoid or some form of boost controller, just again to rule out your actuator as the problem. Basically, try and eliminate as many 'mods' as you can by going back to stock, or as close to stock as you can go.

HOLY SHIT @ that damage

Hey mate... what's the brand? And do you know if this fits R33's? Thanks

Your idea for the dual port will be fine, but I would agree from everything I've heard that the GTR bovs are the way to go. I'm considering getting one