mosquitocoils

Hey Tony... do you have a picture of your turbotech? Could you post/PM me with it so I can get a better idea of how yours is in there?

Sweet... it's sorted then!

Yeah, usually do mine when it's sitting on the empty level... usually just before the light comes on though hahaha. I too have heard it's bad for your pump to do this.

D'oh... blonde moment guys, sorry. Yes, the actuator sets your lowest boost pressure. Replace it with an R33 one to get 7 psi (I think?) and then use a manual controller to increase in small amounts from there until you're happy.

Even though that's a crazy old old old video, that really explains it very well. Thanks!

I have absolutely no idea whether it's related, but I read years ago in a toyota hiace van user manual that the most appropriate RPM for cooling is 1500-2000 RPM... Could be related Demetrus? Like an automatic system activating to help cool the engine down?

Can anyone explain what options there are for an R33 coupe, in terms of remaining legal? I read the modifications guide book but am still confused which windows I can/can't tint? If I even read it correctly, that is.

On my R33 I have a pod with stock BOV... very loud hiss when I'm nearing gear change time! hahahaha but yeah, you can block it off for flutters... or squash the stock one down a bit so it tightens it up a bit, for less hissing, and even some flutter. Alex - a squashed stock bov would do exactly what you described. I didn't want to risk mine, so I bought one off a fellow SAU-er. Ask at wreckers if they have a spare stock one sitting around, but I doubt it. I couldn't find a stock R33 bov at any wrecker near me. The other options is obviously an aftermarket BOV, tighten it so that it only dumps once the pressure is up a bit higher.

Yep, any external boost controller will let you raise or lower boost pressure, as mentioned. Just get a cheap one and install yourself, very easy to do. I'd say replacing the actuator would be harder. As for the headlights, I googled 'R32 headlights' and this is the first result that came up: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ons-t37813.html. Call some mechanics and get a quote for your clutch, best way.

It's not a bright royal blue like the turbosmart one is. It's kinda of this... 'old' looking blue paint. Not explaining it very well, I know. It also doesn't have any markings/words/brands written on it, so is less obvious.

Forgive me if I'm wrong...... I though they were 10 psi though?

Hi mate... I'll take a stab at some of these questions... I don't know anything about those VG turbos, but I'd guess the wastegate on those could be set at 12 psi? If you got a boost tee, you could turn the boost up or down, I think most of the entry level controllers are good up to around 20psi (give or take - I could be wrong). You could very easily get a dual stage boost controller, I'd recommend an electronic one and getting it professionally installed and set to 8/12 pounds. As for clutch, I had mine replaced about 4 months ago with an Exedy OEM replacement (and machined my flywheel - not lightening though), it's a bit bitier than the stock one and I like it, but I've burnt through a fair bit of it already and my car's not a massive powerhouse. Cost around $700-$800 for parts + install if I remember correctly. If you want one that will take a beating, go heavy duty, but expect to add another few hundred on top of that price. For your headlights if you're pretty handy you might be able to get some new lenghts of wire from any auto shop and run new wiring (even if it's just where the connections are dodgey) and replace the metal tabs/connection points too (might have to go somewhere like dick smith electronics for these parts). A soldering iron/electrical tape/heatshrink tubing will be your friend here.

Yeah I was about to buy a sleeper one of those, but even that stands out more than I want it to. I want metal colours, brass and cruddy aluminium in my engine bay. Other option is, if you have a pod filter... get/make a pod filter enclosure. I'm about to make mine next weekend hopefully, it will go long enough back to completely cover my turbotech boost tee as well as covering my pod/shielding heat away from it.

I would say yes

Cheaper and does exactly the same thing. Plus it looks a little more like stock, compared to a (potentially) bright blue boost tee sitting in your engine bay - something some people (i.e. me) may want.

Very easy to do, there's a guide in the tutorial section for RB25DET in the R33's.... but google it for your RB20 and I'm sure you'll find something with picture that's easy enough follow.

Don't mind the coast... as long as I'm there in someone else's car hahahahaha. Just head to the beach Monday, it'll be pretty empty...... if it's not raining.

PM sent

I hear the GTR rear strut brace fits the GTS-T though.

Hahaha yeah..... anyway I was gonna say, I remember going to autobarn about a month ago to get top radiator hose... the guy said he couldn't put in part numbers for skylines cause it's an import, but he knew his shit.... he went out the back, came back with one exactly the same size, shape, and bend. I recall it was around $12?

Everything I've heard is exactly what you mentioned - doesn't clear the plenum.

How is this possible...... you posted tomorrow morning??????

I totally, and completely, forgot about the consult cable! Hahahaha, my bad!

I hear you mate... I'm very happy with what I now know how to do, such a rewarding feeling when it goes right.

Basho... I don't really have a suggestion as far as parts go, but if you wanted to save some money you could try installing yourself. It doesn't take that much, a mid-level toolkit will do fine, maybe with a good breaker bar to get the pesky lug off the bottom of the strut. I wasn't really mechanically minded until I got my skyline... but have learnt heaps from doing things like this myself.