mosquitocoils

Is that BOV the adjustable one? So it can be set atmo OR recirc OR in between? I've always been curious about the legality of those (in QLD anyway)... hmm

Yeah I've seen that one... I think it was one of the first sites I found like it. It's great!

No idea mate, could it be possible that it was still set way incorrectly in the first place? Or maybe when it was 'fixed up'? Has anyone else other than your regular mechanic done any work to your car as well? I'm not sure if it's possible for the timing to just shift on it's own, unless something wasn't tight enough after setting it?

Hi guys, after all the great help I've had so far from this site I thought I'd get into the next thing that's been bugging me about my car. Once it's warmed up and sitting at idle it makes this weird lumpy 'ribbet' noise, maybe once per second. I'd like to find out why it does this, and 'fix' it/alter it. The douchebag who sold me the car told me 'ohhh it's just like that... cause of all the work that's done to it....'. I wasn't so naive as to believe that, but I didn't figure it was a terribly huge problem anyway. Link => If you could take a listen (turn your speakers up - there's no sudden loud noises, don't worry!) I'd really appreciate it. Thanks heaps guys. Ravi.

I was under the impression it was supposed to be 15 too. I'm really very keen on getting a consult cable / ecutalk cable too. Overall was it worth it for you, considering the other things you can read from your car?

The SAU search hasn't been working for me for about a week too mate, it sucks. Try looking up how to clean your AAC valve. I tried it, but failed. My mechanic has a spare one (has had it there waiting for me for about 2 months now lol) that we're gonna swap in whenever I can 'spare' the cash.

+2. Has happened after each time I've had my wheel off to check/replace shock absorber. Just tightened all nuts again (even though the first time it was a good tightness) and was fine after that.

Saw the last one advertised and spoken about before I bought my skyline... now that I have it I'll be coming along

I'll just add a handy tip that someone else on these forums gave me on the weekend, when I was replacing my front shock. If you're having trouble getting the wheel hub back down to slide the shock eyelut onto the lug, wedge a scissor jack in between the wishbone and the wheel guard, and slowly spread it apart... this will lower it as much as you need.

Shock absorber?

Hey guys, my front right strut was on it's way out so I picked up another from the wreckers, didn't need the spring as I have kings lowered ones, so I'm selling the standard spring that came on it for $20. Note the spring compressors in the photo are not included. Also if anyone needs a strut that still works, let me know and you can take my old one away for free. It works ok-ish, but because of my low springs I would scrape tyre against mud guard on big bumps in the road. Probably suit someone who's strut is completely fecked and just needs a new one for a couple of weeks, or for diagnosis. There are some of the rubber bits that came off it too, I had to mix and match bits to have the best setup in my car, but the leftovers are in the pic. Worthless stuff, but if I can save someone having to buy a whole strut just for those parts, so be it. Let me know on here via PM or txt 0422 141 841. Pickup Brisbane 10 mins north of city.

Here's a pic of how it was done... just for reference's sake.

Blind Elk, thanks very much mate I do appreciate it. Eric, I owe you a carton! I thought about doing that before I came and posted on here, but let it go because I thought it could be really unsafe and spring out at me/damage the car in doing so. But after hearing it from someone else I thought bugger it, ended up sticking my little scissor jack in above the wishbone and the engine bay and spread it open so that the lug dropped down enough. Just took it for a short test, feels so much better - my last strut was on it's way and would bottom out on some of the corners around here. Now it's basically perfect hahaha. Relaxing time now

Thanks Andrew, I've tried that a bunch of times but it just won't push down far enough... and I have really strong legs hahaha. I even stood on it with both feet. Hmmm I have a mate coming over soon so I'll try it again with more force hahaha

Would it help if I took both front wheels off the ground? They're not at the moment. How would that help?

Hey guys, just need some quick help, I've removed my front left gas strut + spring as the strut needed replacing. I've taken my lowered spring off the old strut, put it on the new one, and now I can't get the whole thing back into the car.... the lug is just way too high up to fit the strut eyelut on to. I've had heaps of weight on it to try and push it down, put the wheel back on and stood on it, had someone else stand on it with all their weight while I tried to get it in etc etc, and I just can't for the lift of me figure out how to slide it on. $100 an hour for a mobile mechanic to come out is just too much... Any tips?? Like is there something else I can undo or loosen to make it easier to push the wheel hub down?

Thanks heaps for the replies guys! And thanks Jack for the part numbers etc but I don't think I'll bother with that, seems too involved, and I'm quite lazy haha! And Tony I was pretty sure it would have to be more complex than just wiring it to a pot. We could wish though I'm going to be swapping a USB kenwood unit in as soon as I can afford to, so it shouldn't be a problem then, but I figured it would be an interesting project to kill an hour on the weekend!

Hi guys, I have a cheap Pioneer head unit that keeps the antenna up at all times while on - even while on cd mode. I'm *this* close to going and getting a switch to put in line with the antenna remote wire so I can click it *up* or *down* - easy enough. What I'm curious about is, could I put a knob in place of the switch? Would that affect the height of the antenna? Or would it do nothing at all? I figure the way it works is the antenna itself is wired to earth + power (from head deck). This makes the motor go up. When you remove the power signal (turn the deck off), it's earthed only, and the motor spins the other way (retracts it). If this is the case, then my idea WON'T work.... but can someone fill me in on how the antenna DOES in fact go up and down if this is not the case? And is there a way that I could in fact use a knob to set the height of the antenna? So dial in 5 on the knob and it sits at half height etc etc. And yes I know it's not really that useful but I'm more curious than anything hehe. Thanks guys.

Hey guys, thanks for the responses. I'll definately try that rubber matting idea - sounds perfect. I tried taking my wing off when I first got the car but I couldn't figure it out... I found 2 bolts (one either side) but I'm under the impression there's 2 more somewhere I couldn't see?

Hi guys, my boot's been leaking since I got my car so I finally decided to pour water all over it and check out where it's going. Turns out it's coming out the hole's in the attached photo.... what's supposed to be in these holes? If someone could post a pic of what it's supposed to look like under the lining, that would be excellent. Next question... I assume there shouldn't be water INSIDE the boot lid area anyway, right? So how do you think I could stop that? Thanks guys.

Just wondering if anyone can post a picture of the wire that should be cut as the original pic has disappeared?

Which thread was it you found to help? I've tried searching but couldn't find one?

I've been told this is a common thing for the RB's as well. Like previous poster said, just ensure you have the right amount of oil in all the time for safety's sake. That's the same weight oil I have in my car, and mine's started doing it too, only in the last 400km's or so (been about 3500km since last change). I'll be trying a different brand oil this time and see if it helps. I've gotta get a logbook service done anyway probably in the next 3 weeks or so, so I'll get them to check it out while it's in the shop and report back.

I have King lows in mine now and it's fine. Way more than 100mm from the ground, my massive exhaust never scrapes. I think any lower than their 'low' springs is starting to get a bit low though - i.e. super low, super super low, ultra low.

Hi all, tried this on the weekend and it worked easy as pie. I cut the black wire and just ran a tiny piece of wire (about an inch long) to the screw that holds the solenoid bracket on. Just unscrewed/unbolted that one bolt, wrapped my wire around it once, then tightened it back up. 7 psi all the time now. Definately feels a lot free-er in the low end around 2500. But I have a slight dead spot now about 2100-2300... it's weird. It's definately an overall improvement though. Here's a tip too: get some of that black 'cloth' tape and wrap both the original wire and the new wire you just ran to the bolt, in that tape. Makes it look as stock as anything!