mosquitocoils

Sold for $850...

First one sounds like your clutch slipping... could be on its way out? But I'm not sure if that would cause the vibrating? Both problems together could indicate gearbox issues... maybe... I had a friend with an MX6 who's gearbox blew randomly one day without warning, he couldn't engage gears easily, but when he did his car clunked and rattled while attempting to drive.

As the previous poster mentioned, your car has a two-stage boost controller as a stock item. It regulates that boost will go up to 5psi at around 3000rpm, and then once you reach around 4500rpm upwards, the boost climbs to 7-8psi. For reference's sake, I've seen mine get to about 7.5-8psi when I get close to redlining in 3rd gear coming onto the highway. If you were to install a manual boost controller (like a turbosmart, or gfb as examples) this takes the place of the stock boost controller and sets a maximum boost as set by you when adjusting the new controller. Up to around 10psi is considered safe with stock internals and turbo. Unfortunately I can't help with the misfire problem, but as others have stated have a look on these forums, I have seen a stickied thread relating to it.

Hi all, I have a set of G4 Racing coilovers for sale. They were in my R33 GTS-T when I bought it a while back, and I've been told they were nearly new at the time. I've been told they're the drift spec coilovers but I can't say for sure as I can't see any part numbers. They make for great handling while at speed, but I'm looking to get a nice street car going. My girlfriend wasn't too fond of the coilovers on the local roads around here Photos are attached, as well as a pic of my car when it had the coilovers in (for ride height). The height was wayyyy legal, never had a problem with ride height. This is of course fully adjustable. Info on G4 coilovers for Nissans here: http://www.justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=...on=0&page=1 Asking price is $850 or nearest, pickup from Brisbane northside or I'm happy to come meet you somewhere if you wanna swing us some fuel money. If you're after coilovers that are decent for street use, but don't want to pay for Tein's etc then PM me on here or text 0422 141 841.

Hi guys, got a set of std shocks. Thanks for the replies. Mods please delete.

Mine does it too, regardless of the climate control being on or off. It's more likely to happen first thing in the morning though... I've been told by a mechanic that it's to do with the vents that circulate the air into the cabin... Do they circulate fresh air even when climate control is off?

I can't say from first hand experience, but everything I've heard is that KYB shocks are the way to go.

Hi guys, as the title says I'm chasing a set of shocks from a series 1 R33 GTS-T in good condition... no leaks etc. Anyone with them or with info on where I can find some should PM me here or email me at [email protected]. Let me know condition, price, and location and I'll consider it... cheers guys.

Hi mate, curious if the shocks sold?

Yeah that's what I'm thinking was happening too. Took it for a good long drive again tonight and it's not squealing so I'm positive this has done it!

Hi everyone, I just came across this in the Skyline Manual PDF I managed to download. I'm sure it's been covered a million times, but I thought having a reference like this could be useful. It just shows what your oil pressure should be at idle, 2000 rpm and 6000 rpm and covers RB20, RB25DE, RB25DET and RB26DETT.

Hi again, thanks for all of your input. Thought it was time for an update... I think I found the problem!! It was my stock BOV. After the dickhead of a mechanic gave me my car back half completed, he didn't tighten the bolts that hold the BOV on. It was 'ok' but not GREAT. Also the gasket wasn't proving very airtight, so I took it off and reset it in place basically just by turning it 180 degrees. Through this process I've replaced much of the easily accessible vacuum lines and a few of the other things like breather pipes/AAC valve feeder because they were old and fraying/splitting. Definately holding it's idle very well now, and boosting properly without squealing. Again, thanks for all your help. I just hope that if someone has a similar experience in future they might get some info from this thread.

Yeah, already replaced that BOV hose with a straight-through one (second picture) and just wanted to know what the t piece could have been used for. And I'll replace the 90 degree hose as soon as I can. Thanks for the help guys.

I'm starting to think the same. Thanks for your help mate. Any ideas on the t-piece on the BOV line?

Well I spoke too soon. Once the car got warm enough it started making the squealing noise again... Will keep investigating.

Hi guys, I am just after a bit of basic information here. Trying to learn as much as possible so feel free to rant if you feel like it. Circled in red in the first picture, what is the black elbow hose that connects onto the back of the grey pipe? The black pipe is broken at the point where it connects on, I have wrapped it very well with tape and used 2 clamps on it, my mechanic said that'll do for now, but I am curious how crucial this connection is/what it does etc. Would this leaky area make a high-pitched squealing noise on high boost? Or is this more to do with idle control? What do I ask for if I go to a wreckers? Also, circled in blue in the photos is a line that leads to/from the stock BOV. When I bought the car, this line had a t-piece installed with a cap over it. I've since replaced this with a single straight hose. I've attached a photo of the t-piece to show you. Can anyone tell me what use this would have had? Again, thanks for any info anyone can give me. Bit new to this and keen to learn. Cheers.

Just to add a little correction, it turns out my gauge was fine and the connection on it was not the issue at all. I've since found a 2nd leak in my intercooler piping, due to the clamps not being in the right spot to seal the silicon tubing completely. Anyone having similar issues should check every coupling, by loosening the clamp, lifting it off it's position on the silicon and re-setting it in place. And thanks Craved. I always find it useful when others post the resolution so it makes sense to do it for others too

This is a great guide but I'd really appreciate if the picture links could be updated/reuploaded. Especially step 3 with all the 'extra' bits that would need to come off. If anyone could take a photo and circle (as described) I'd be over the moon.

I agree with this tip, very handy. I have 4mm brass t-piece going into 4mm vacuum hose at the moment, the fitting was a bit tight but the heat on the hose did the trick.

EXACTLY what I do... I couldn't believe someone else saying exactly what I was going to!

So I had a loose intercooler piping clamp... fixed now. Also my boost gauge line coming off the back of the intake was leaking badly... which was explaining the squealing noise. It's not heaps better now, but it seems more air tight and not leaking or making the noise. Just some ideas for people to look at if they find a similar problem. Thanks for your help guys.

Mate supercheap sells this vacuum hose and I think repco/autobarn as well but I know supercheap does. Get the 4mm stuff in a plastic box, it'll fit the factory boost solenoid and any t-piece controller as well.

I'll second the aac valve. Mine's been doing exactly what you've described.. my mechanic said mine's stuck and I need a new one so I'm trying to find a second hand one at the moment without any luck. Might call nissan in the morning and see...

Hey all, mine's stuck so if anyone has one in good working order gimme a text 0422 141 841 or post / PM me on here.

Not being rude, but I'm guessing R33 GTS-T from looking underneath his member name. Could be wrong though.