PUDZ 32R

selling xenon headlight bulbs (NOT HID) that i had in my skyrine before i changed to HID there is a new unopened pack of 2 55W bulbs to suit low beam, plus 1 spare 55W bulb. 2 100W high beam bulbs. (yes i know they are in a 55W box- they are 100W) all bulbs are H3C pattern. if your headlights arent this pattern dont buy! simples! located in victoria park, perth. chasing $20 or a 6 pack of somersby apple cider. just too good to throw out seeing as they cost me about $40 per pack new. Alex 0424 076 567

sounds to me like your TCS working. cutting the spark? and a bit of unburnt fuel burning once it hits the turbine blades. similar to hitting the limiter for a split second. sounds pretty normal to me but im no expert on '34s

yeah its still driving fine! thats whats confusing me. i know it could mean limp mode but it still has the same amount of power as normal . it also didnt do it all day today?? WTF!! im thinking im just gunna cut the wires.

ok i know im digging up an old post but it seemed better than starting a new one.. i installed a mines tuned ECU into my '32 GTS-t yesterday and now today driving my car around town this exhaust gas temp light is flashing on the dash basically as soon as i start the car. it flashes almost constantly sometimes and even when i am not booting it just cruising at 60kph with constant throttle. this has me worried because i know when the exhaust temp gets hot it is a sign of leaning out but this light is flashing at all driving conditions. if i just cut the wires will the ECU go into limp mode? what is worrying me is that i have heard mines tune their ECUs for 102 octane fuel and im only running 98 which is the best i can get here. if anyone else has had this issue for any reason please let me know! thanks.

My '32 did this for a while and i replaced a heap of stuff. it turned out to be a blocked radiator so i got 52mm triple core ally one and it has not moved since. also heard that if your car hasnt been bled correctly after refilling the radiator coolant it will overheat.

my bet is still on coil packs breaking down under load. when it is boosting. my '32 was doing the exact same thing when i wound the boost up to 14psi it lasted a few days then started to missfire when it was boosting. drove fine at all other times. i ordered some yellowjackets from performance wise through this forum and now they are fitted my car runs sweet. no missfire no loss of power under boost no overfuelling backfires out the exhaust. all good. i would suggest winding your boost back down if that fixes it it is definatley coil packs. if you gap your plugs 2 low you will still get missfires due to the spark simply not being strong enough to ignite the fuel. i run mine at .9 with yellowjackets and no issues. the missfire started at .8 with new iridiums and standard packs.

i ordered 2 sets on xmas eve, 1 to suit RB20 and 1 to suit RB25 NEO hopefully they get here soon!

i use a 1/4" ratchet and an 8mm deep socket to adjust mine. its easy to get in there like that. screwdriver is wayyy to hard to muck with trying to fit it in there

maybe buy some internal hex wheel nuts? thats what i had to do with my '32. the nuts are M12x1.25. i paid $40 for 20 of them and they came with a hex bit as well. other than that Stahlwille make some very thin walled sockets but they are massivley expensive. try about $750 for a basic socket set.

behind the stereo there will be a blue wire coming out the back with a heap of other wires. disconnect this one. not the blue with white trace though as this is your amp remote turn on wire. that should fix it!

what do you mean by your old pump is having trouble? have you considered running new wire to the old pump to up the voltage it gets? im not sure if that is what is causing your pump to play up but its worth changing anyway especially if you go and put an 040 pump in. there are heaps of threads on how to do it around this site.

im going with toe out or incorrect alignment in another way. from what i understand you had your suspension checked and then replaced the bushes afterwards? if thats the case it could have moved.

DAMN that '32 looks nice! here i was thinking most burgundy style colours look old. but just look at that '32!

Go Black FTW. they still look good but not wanky. Black and then sand back the nissan lettering if you want to. plus black and burgundy go together good. only other colour i can thing that wouldnt look bad is a brembo style bronze gold colour

doesnt matter if you are idling in your driveway or giving it full boost down conrod straight. it should read between 80 to 90 degrees. sometimes it will go up a bit higher when idling at the lights on a hot day but thats what your fan is there for. if it is reading 60 i am not surprised in any way that the car wont start or run properly. the timing will be retarded to the shithouse as the computer thinks the car is cold so it retards the timing to attempt to get the engine up to running temp faster. also will be choking on all the extra fuel getting injected. Run your guage from the proper sensor. that is why the RB20 has 2. a super accurate one for ECU and a cheaper 1 pin job for the guage.