PUDZ 32R

nah i had to drill the holes out. i think a 7mm bit did the trick.

Black gasket silicone, a steady hand and a smear of oil on one surface to stop your new "gasket" from sticking to the rocker cover. makes a perfect new seal it worked a treat on mine.

same exact thing happened to me first attempt so i went and got me a $40 tap metric tap and die set, tapped them to M8x1 (the finer M8 for steel, M8x1.25 is generally for aluminium) and voila! off she comes first try and now i know im not going to have any probs in the future. there is no need to get a mechanic to tap them for you? its pretty easy just use lots of CRC and a bit of time.

this is unlikely but have you tried unplugging your temp sensor wire that feeds the ECU? there are 2 temp sensors one for the dash and one for the ECU. it is the 2 pin plug they are right next to each other on the right radiator hose. it could be that the sensor is feeding the ecu dodgy temp info and it is running massivly rich as it is "playing it safe" as it has no f ing idea what the temp is. try changing temp sensors with a mate. also you havent said if you left the valley cover off and went for a drive to get it playing up then unplug one coil pack at a time to see which cylinder doesnt make the missfire worse. then you know which cylinder is your problem.

my RB20 wont rev past 2300RPM when the afm is unplugged so i would be leaning away from AFM if you are getting to 4500. most likely coil packs or sparkplugs. it might be an idea to buy new plugs anyway if you havnt changed them for a while as the electrodes tend to wear out on one side and in effect increase your gap so increasing the chance of missfire. plugs are cheap as chips so replace them and your new coil packs at the same time and listen to her purr! haha

same thing happened to mine last week. changed plugs and coil packs now its sweet. i am going to test next week if it was plugs by putting my old coil packs in and see if it starts again if not i can give my mate his coil packs back! it sounded like a subi. was running on 5 cylinders whenever it got hot sounds exactly like what was happening to yours and i knew it wasnt fuel because it backfired heavily when i let off when it was running shite. so spark was the cause! i put NGK iridiums in mine even though the book says there is no known number for the RB20 silver top. i cant remember the codes tho but they are a match to fit the RB30E with 1.1 gap i gapped down to .8. hope this helps!

by reset do you mean return to off position? because mine dont either if i turn the key off and the wipers are halfway across the windscreen they stay there.. if i was you i would get a multimeter and untape all the wires going to the motor.. could be just that they were too lazy to connect them properly?? then you can check whick ones get 12V when you put the switch at various positions.

changing the motor should not affect the wipers.. i have a wiring diagram for the '32 GTS-t somewhere ill dig it up and post up if i can. i would say someone has cut the wrong wires and not put them back in right.. or your switch may just be dodgy?

guys im looking at new exhausts and the just jap racing turbo back ones seem pretty good value. just before i lay out the green stuff has anyone used one of their exhausts or intercooler kits? trying to figure out if i should spend twice as much for a kakimoto that i will probably have to modify to make it quiet enough to be legal.. input would be appreciated! thanks, Alex.

hey guys have spent a good half an hour on search but came up with nothing. just want to know what thread pitch the skyline wheel studs are and also my new wheels have incredibly small holes for the nuts. the max diameter i can fit in there is 21mm. my standard nuts wont fit of course so i need new ones. any suggestions?

SYMS Metis, 17x8 +35 18.871lb

it sounds like you have changed everything.. its a long shot but could your timing belt have jumped a tooth, i dont see how the CAS would cause suck missfiring etc.. would just advance or retard the timing if it has slipped. it might be shot though.. also put a cupful of metho in the tank to get rid of water in the fuel. that could be your problem? loom might be stuffed? apart from that im stumped as you seem to have checked all the obvious ones if you do figure it out let us all know what it ended up being.

ok.. the bad news.. turns out infact they do not fit over my front calipers by about 1.5mm. i think i will haveto hold off until i get bigger brakes then they will fit.. or make 2mm spacers..

nice work mate! i am looking at doing the same thing in mine. just wondering what block you used? was it just standard out of an R31 or something special? also.... WHERE did you get that valley cover??!! i want one!!

mine has 5 seats, its an R32 GTS-t 2 door. but screw being the person in the middle seat.

could be an issue with your alarm if you have one? seems to be a common problem the alarm cutting the engine when not wanted..

if you still have the old cat take it to a bolt place and get it matched up... if your cat is stainless get a stainless bolt as zinc and stainless dont go together 2 well where heat is involved..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...m-B-t73824.html this seems to be the best one i could find. its for an RB25 but the general idea is the same. if you have enough mechanical knowledge to tackle it you should be able to work it out for RB20

there would be a lot of info on this in search.. i have personally written a bit about it. but search doesnt work sometimes i guess. if you spell it properly like timing belt you may get results in search!

i reckon the burning smell is normal.. new metal and exhaust putty and new gaskets etc. and witht the guage maybe you didnt notice it before cos you wernt worried by the burning smell?? check the heat shield on the cat as well as the turbo

i am not changing the rolling diameter at all... so i got a feeling... only a feeling... that the acceleration will remain unchanged hahaha

thanks for the answer mate. i was sure this would be somewhere else but i have never been able to get the search thing to work on this site.. i think my antivirus blocks it or something. feel free to close this thread if needed

guys looking at lowering my 32 and wondering on everyones opinion if i should go just new springs as my shocks are still mint or go coilovers and what are good brands etc.. the car will be just a streeter and maybe a little track time.. just not sure i wanna fork out for coilovers at this stage.. also what camber arms etc do i need to replace so i dont get too much negative camber and screw my tyres.. any help and input would be appreciated thanks Alex

when i get them will let everyone know if i have made an expensive mistake or that they DO infact fit over my calipers..... heres hoping and many crossed fingers haha also will weigh them etc so they can be added to the wheel weights guide.. maybe that will help some people.

doesnt the RB20 make more boost than the RB25? wouldnt that throw out the stock RB20 BOV and maybe cause flutter? just an idea..