PUDZ 32R

thanks guys i managed to order them just then and it all went thru. just haveto wait for them to rock up from the USA however long that will take?? and hope i dont get screwed in the process. just need wheel nuts now but have no idea what pitch the thread is or whether i should get aluminium or steel...

here is the rims i want.. if anyone knows where i can get them in oz i would happily buy them. i have spent over 2K in one transaction at harvey norman before and no worries.. this was only going to be $830.. so im a bit confused. again if anyone knows where i can get these in oz it would be a lot easier. cheers.

has anyone had any bad experiences with buying stuff over the net with paypal? i just tried to buy new rims from america and i have more than enough money on my card but it declined my card and wouldnt give a reason.. im pretty pissed off because i think these are the only rims i have seen in ages that i actually like.. any feedback would be welcome and move the topic if needed i had no idea where to put it and it related to rims. cheers guys, Alex

mine are gloss black with the nissan writing sanded after so its silver again. would look good on a yellow car. which mine will be one day.. as they say 2 shades of the same colour dont always go together..

chalky can you chuck up a pic so i can see what 17s look like on a GTS-T? if you could it would be great thanks

i must have bought 4 good ones then. mine have been in hi and lo beam for about 8 months so far and i drive every day with headlights on had no issues so far..

i got a bad feeling your heater radiator has a leak in it... maybe just a small leak to cause steam but no drips.. only thing i can think to test this is drive around for a little while with the radiator cap loose so the system doesnt build up pressure and see if it still does it. dont drive like this for 2 long and you will probably need to bleed the cooling system again after. dont know if this helps but give it a shot.

the bearings will be replaced at 130k. i did the belt at 90k. whoever had the car before me hadnt done anything so it was a heap of preventative maintenence to start with. bearings were running ok so i figured they could wait. i am going to re-do the belt at 130k and do bearings as well. maybe not everyone agrees with this way of doing it but looking at the condition of everything when i got it i decided this was the best at the time.

gday guys, as above question. will they fit or do i need to get different offset. i tried offset calcs but cant make sense of the ones i am looking at. will try to attach a pic of the rims i am looking at. also what is the PCD for a skyline R32 GTS-T? 5x100 or 5x 114.3?

no slap up job. just quick and easy and having done it 3 times on mates motors helps out a lot 2. oh and please explain how it is possible to do a slap up job on a timing belt??

a missfire could be easily mistaken for a cough.. usually if the AFM is going it will basically switch the engine off until revs are below 2300.

oh they can help.. just ask for a guy there who knows what he is doing.. tell them to look on ICAT. if you still have no luck i can get them for ya and post them wherever.

well that blew away my autowatch alarm theory.. have you checked all the relays in the box near the battery? sometimes they can go and there is no way to tell just looking at them.. take them out of a mates car and replace them etc.. see how that idea goes

+1 on the holden owners putting chev badges on... what a joke!! why not whack a jag badge on your ford??? haha

contact adhesive in a spray can.. so easy.. but you have to tape newspaper all around the area. and read the instructions on the can!! some contact glues want you to wait till its tacky then roll together, some say wait till its fully dry before rolling together. makes a huge difference trust me.

i cahnged my water pump and timing belt on my RB20 and it took me about 2 hours max. piss easy on these engines.. water pump cost me $80 from supercheap (yes it was japanese, no it was not the genuine $290 pump) belt cost me $100. new rad concentrate etc another $50. piss easy and cheap if you compare the cost of valves smashed thru pistons etc etc if the belt breaks. or the emotional f**k up if the pump goes at the worst time. fix it while you can..

coil packs on the way out.. i say this as it sounds like the problem only happens when under full boost. which is when coil pack weaknesses show themselves.

does it have an alarm? auto watch in particular?

dexron 3 oil is a cheap way of replacing nissan D matic oil.. it will work but not as well. probably wont notice difference in normal driving but it will be there under heavy driving.. just bith the bullet and fork out the $80 odd for genuine nissan D matic from a nissan dealer.

my money is on head gasket but i slight possibility if your turbo is water cooled is that it could be a blown gasket in the turbo between water and compressor. very slight possibility and not that many turbos are water cooled.. if it is head gasket dont drive it 2 much or you wont do 2 much good to the head or the mating face or the block either... its a day job to fix it by yourself.

hahaha that turbo ventilator sounds the goods!! if they plugged it any better i might think of ripping my turbo off and fitting 5 of them!! might give me the HUGE bottom end tourque RB engines so often lack..... there must be some suckers out there. here all us turbo guys are trying to take all restrictions out of our intake tracts and these guys are telling us to put a restriction in!! i dont know sometimes haha

i cant tell you if it is the right one without seeing it or a part number. but the one i got to replace mine '32GTS-T was a direct fit for an EL falcon. 3 wires, one was shielded and the other 2 are positive and negative. the shielded wire goes to the ECU signal wire. it comes with the wrong plug but i picked up a 4 pin plug from supercheap and re wired it in. easy and neat so i wasnt joining wires together. works mint.

mate i special ordered the bulbs from supercheap auto. they are autotecnica super white H3C 55W blue max platinum xenon bulbs. straight fit replacement in my 32 GTS-T with projector low beam. they cost me about $40 for the pair but i get discount there so id say you could get them for $60. H3C has the 2 spade pins in the back of the bulb and H3 has no spades but uses the body of the bulb as an earth and has a short lead hanging off it. both you can fit H3C bulbs in H3 headlights but you haveto change the spades. i did it with my hi beams as i put blue bulbs in them 2. any more questions PM me, hope this helps

take the plastic undertray out from under the engine then you can get at the compressor from underneath. you will have to jack up the car a bit tho

dont like it all that much.. just xenons look agressive and i dont see the need to change a good thing. NTM probaly illegal??