PUDZ 32R

exact same thing happening to my car now. havnt traced it down yet but it seems if i hit the left blinker it works for a bit. prob a dodgy connection. ill check it out some day soon i reckon.

take it to an auto leccy. its got me stumped. unless ur charge light isnt working..

would not run a modded car without a cat. not only does it give the yellow stain off to attract cops all the cop has to do is smell the ex gas and he will know u dont have a cat. its a completley different smell of unburnt fuel and un converted gases. smells like my R31 race engine. has no cat. u can get rid of the yellow stain by running c16 or something but i dont think having no cat is worth ten bucks a litre haha

have u checked the belt is tight? cos they will slip when cold and not hot quite often.

is the RB25 neo different from all the other RB engines? cos the others run a tensioner to the aircon thats what i was referring to. just try the stop squeak stuff but beware if the belt is slightly loose it will wlip and u wont be able to hear it.

haha no i meant if the bearing is rooted it doesnt matter how tight u make the belt it will still screech.. not it doesnt matter normally because it does. it would do it when its cold and not hot because it heats up and the metal expands loosening it all up therefore no squeaks. i am thinking now that it is water pump bearings or alternator bearings sorry thought u said air con belt was screeching. my bad didnt read ur post properly the tightening the guys did may have triggered the bearings to go. waterpumps dont cost that much

u have an R31 with an RB30 right?? i used to have one of them and they are the easiest engines on the planet to work on, go to supercheap and get a workshop manual. pay $30 and it will have the head sequence and torque settings etc. get a good torque wrench about $50 and do the job properly. chances are u have warped the head but u might be lucky. get some "HYLOMAR" at supercheap (comes in a blue and silver can) and spray it on the gasket before u put it back on. its good stuff and will help seal if there is a slight warp in the head. also if u havnt already drain the oil and filter and replace the whole lot. it might have water in it as well.

if it is misfiring on accelleration i would say its a coil pack that has gone. as they only play up under boost usually. during back off the engine is ander vac so they dont play up. just check the all out./

i would put money on a rooted tensioner bearing mate. doesnt matter how tight u make the belf. if u keep driving like this u will just stuff the new belts. i replaced all my belts with gates racing blue belts. mint belts. designed to run a bit tighter than standard. u can get them from supercheap for bout $30 each.

what i had2 do with mine is take the radiator out and lift the aircon rad up as far as u can without taking the hoses off. this lets u (just) get a socket in there with a 3/4 rattle gun with a few extentions. also a few well placed knocks with a hammer on the bolt will help jolt any rust etc. i find inox is a better penetrant than crc etc. u will then need a GOOD QUALITY harmonic balancer puller. as u require a shitload of force on the 2 6mm bolts 2 get it off. cheap 1s will shit themselves. expect to pay $70 upwards for a good kit. also when u use the puller make sure the bolt is in half way so u dont go burring the crank thread with the center of the puller.

just take the bulb out and take it in2 supercheap and match it up. piece of piss.

i would say it is a problem with the HICAS. as it only comes into play at speed as far as i know.. why dont u just buy a canceller bar 2 get back some rear end stability into the car.

even if the ATESSA wasnt working it would basically be a RWD car. and should not behave like this. take it to a specialist. not just to ur mech. i would even go as far as saying the car could have been in a prang and have a bent subframe if the guys cant align it properly.. u need to take it in cos it will let u down right when u need its handling to be predictable.

yes i agree get ur susp checked asap. there could be a tie rod or something very loose under there... and might let go at the wrong time. sounds like your front and rear alignment is way out..

an exhaust gasket that is gone will make that noise but it will almost certainly be all the time,, not only every now and then.

where are you going to mount the guage? in the dash or pillar pod etc? if in the dash where bouts? you should be able to find a grommet with wires going thru it in a fair few place.. by mechanical do you mean it needs a boost vac hose to the guage? because im not sure but i think the standard guage runs off a hose? correct me if im wrong people!!

personally i think the Rays engineering/ Volk racing T57RC look mint on an R32.

i would say get the idler and tensioner bearings changed.. should be able to get some from a bearing joint and press them in.. have you checked your fan? because my fan went recently (very suddenly) and was making a clunking cluttering noise when the engine was turned off. try and wobble the blades and see if they have any back and fowards movement. it may just be a big coincidence that the fan has went and making this noise. just another thing to check.. you need to get the bearings replaced. by a DIFFERENT mech mate. the one you took it to doesnt sound like he knows much about skylines.. not insisting you change the bearings that are shot is like pouring water in the motor and waiting for death.

yeh windage will cause whipped oil. your engine will be A1 ok when you sort the problem out. just drain the WHOLE lot INCLUDING the oil filter cos it can hold about 500ml of shitty aerated oil. replace the oil filter then refill with good oil. personally i use castrol edge. i would also suggets changing the oil again in about 400km (not 4000) just to make sure you have got all the shit oil out. then every 5000k should be great. hope you get it all sorted out soon. guys not everyone is mech minded.. so i think we should be HELPING our fellow skyline lovers. not laughing at them.....

yeh mate if you mean albany in WA i have seen it getting round. theres 4 R32s here i think. mine is one of them. midnight blue GTS-T let us all know if the mech sorts your problems out.

cheers mate. will hav2 get them from nissan i reckon. i do want the HID 1s.

do you still run the air flow meters? if so the pods will have nothing to do with it i dont think. i think one of the hoses between the AFM and the turbo is loose or not on properly etc that would cause the jumpy boost etc as the afm would be telling the computer the wrong info. also it is possible a vacuum line is on wrong. maybe even to the wastegate if the boost is all over the place. check it all properly and if u cant find the leak take it to a mech. it wont be serious just a loose hose i reckon.

BUMP. cmon guys someone must be able to tell me where i can get a set.

check the relay box under the bonnet near the radiator overflow tank. my relay wen a while back and i had to replace it. got a new one from the wreckers. see if this works

when you do the comp tes you should make sure the turbo cannot change the cylinder pressure at all. so take the inlet hoes off just before the plenum. not sure of the readings you will expect. but do a full set of readings and record the numbers then put a few drops of 85-140 or other very thick gear oil down the spark plug holes and do another test. if the readings go up by more than a few PSI you will need new rings soon. not cheap. also check out the inside of the top cover by looking into the oil filler cap. if there is a lot of black gunk the motor is screwed. if it looks like new oil colour (remember i am not just talking about the colour of the oil, although this does matter as well) then the engine has probably been looked after. listen to the engine idle. you should hear a light clicking coming from the injectors any clunks spell trouble. rev the engine and listen to the backoff. if the engine clunks when backing off (as is usually the case with big ends that are gone due to the sudden drop in oil pressure) this shows up a lot of usually hidden noises. also bear in mind you will need to replace the timing belt if it is not already changed as the RB26 is an interference engine meaning if the belt goes valves will smash into pistons etc. big dollars..anything else just ask mate. hope you get a good GTR!!