trustr32

Hey mate you have a PM

Also it's a good opportunity for a highflow................

Upsetting to say the least. Depends how much stud if any is left sticking out of the turbo and also how accessible it is. If there is a bit of stud sticking out you could remove the dump pipe and get some vice grip pliers onto it but failing that you need to get an easyout onto it which means probably reomving the turbo cause you need enough room to get a drill in there. By the sounds of it though it won't be the only one to do that so probably gonna be better to remove the turbo. Are you fairly keen to learn about the in's and out's of your turbo setup? It's a good learning opportunity for you if you've got the time and basic knowledge (a friend with some experience is also good lol) but if not an exhaust place or mechanic is the best bet.

Wow Very nice work man. Should be great once it's all finished. How's your's going Jangles? Guess I need to get off my arse and get mine sorted too.

Wouuldn't mind this where bouts you located?

f**k this belongs in the wasteland! Lol'd so hard! GL.

Well this is my R32 GTR engine bay when I bought it And this is as it sits now before I pull it back out in the next few weeks FML!

Yep I can see it and mate that's gonna be a bitch to fix (read bodyworks)

Not too sure you can mate. If your talking about the little spring that sits below the main spring it's just there to locate the top spring and stop it from moving off the seat when under full extension.

Hey man thanks. Na the bad luck didn't stop there unfortunately. I got it all back together, running and booked into tune but when I was warming it up to bleed the coolant I noticed it was still smoking like a train. So the tune at the mechanics turned into a diagnosis day and it turns out my oil pressure was off the show at 115psi at idle and 150psi at 2000rpm so it was forcing oil into the turbo again even with the restrictors fitted. So after speaking to the mechanic and asking everyone on here we've come to the conclusion that the pressure relief valve must be stuck shut so it's out with the engine again and off with the pump. Needless to say i took it straight home and locked it up in the driveway and haven't touched it since lol. over the last 5 weeks I have been helping my old boss move workshops to a shed thats about 8 times the size of the old one so once he's moved in I'll take it in there and use the hoist to rip the negine out and take it to the mechanics to get him to have a look at it. Who knows I might even get around to respraying it while it's in there lol.

Yeah as jangles said just treat and paint. As long as the Strength of the metal is still there then there's no need to remove it. By cleaning it up like you have and treating it with a metal conditioner/rust converter it will never come back as long as you coat it properly.

Wont be attending as I now have to remove my engine again

Yeah I'm not sure either but it was 115psi at idle which at the moment is up around 1000rpm or was when I dropped it into the mechanic not sure if he mucked around with that at all and 150psi at 2000rpm. Am I right in my thinking (not knowing much about the internal structure of these engines) that I only have 1 oil feed for the head? ie 1 blocked off and 1 restricted? Please correct me if I'm wrong on that but if that is the case then the head feed isn't blocked as there is plenty of oil in the head. But will definately quiz the mechanic more on potential blockages too.

Yeah thats why I got the mechanic to look at it cause I wasn't confident in my gauge. I also thought a possible blockage I had the factory heat exchanger blocked off behind the oil filter and I know they had to block up one of the little ball valve things in that housing and i was thinking maybe they did the wrong one so the mechanic was gonna have a look at that too. There's definately oil in the head so I don't think there's a blockage at the restrictor. Also if there was a blockage such as that causing back pressure and the pressure relief valve was working properly wouldn't it just bypass the oil straight back to the sump and cause only a nominal rise in pressure or doesn't it work quite like that?

Thanks Dan thats the sort of info I'm after. The mechanic called me on thursday and said the same thing that it's a good pump and it's most likely the pressure relief valve is just stuck. So engine out and I'll take it into him and he can have a look and see what he thinks before I go anywhere near buying a new pump. Might try and cut that hole in the sump while it's off but I don't like my chances cause I doubt there will be enough sump below the pump and in front of the extension for it but we'll see I guess.

I'm guessing thats warm cause when I had a cheap mech gauge on it before hand it went past 120psi at cold idle and I didn't leave it long enough to see if it came down. It's cheap run in oil Castrol magnatec?? 15W40? Don't quote me on that I'll have a look tomorrow. As for the cutting a hole in the sump idea I have a Hi Octane sump extension welded on and I'm fairly sure there's not much sump left in front of it below the pump.

Really sorry to bug you all but I have searched Hi and Low for the last 3-4 months and can find next to no information on these pumps but basically long story short I have just rebuilt my R32 GTR and got it running.It has all the usual oil mods with a TRUST oil pump which I bought brand new in it's box off a member on here. Had trouble with the front turbo leaking into the exhaust pretty much straight away and sent it off to get inspected. Came back fine. Put it back together but put inline 1.2mm restrictors in the turbo feeds but same issue pretty much from startup. Took it to the mechanic and he checked the car over and found that my oil pressure is sitting at 115psi at idle and 150psi at 2000rpm. He has suggested it's the pressure relief in the pump and advised changing it but this involves removing engine/gearbox/sump/pump and I need to be sure of the fix first. So I am just wondering if there is anyone out there using the same pump or has used one in the past and can tell me do these come with dual springs from factory and if so will removing one be enough? I mean the oil pressure is WELL above the stated pressure and even with tight tolerances I can't see how it could make that amount of difference. Also could it be something else? Not the pressure relief? Could it be that there is something plumbed up wrong that is blocking flow somewhere causing a pressure buildup? I'm at the point now that I'm thinking of just replacing the pump staright up with a TOMEI so it's adjustable externally so I dont have the heartache of changing the spring on the TRUST only to get it back together to find it's still too much or worse not enough. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I've come so close I'd hate to leave the car in a paddock until I can face it again. Cheers Brodie

Yeah still got them located in kingston

Cheers guys trust me it's been a ride and a half and it's not even going lol. Going to put my turbo back on this weekend and get everything hooked up. My engine builder is fitting grub screws in my banjo bolts and redrilling them ATM so hopefully have them by friday and get this fired up Saturday arvo to check if it works (fingers crossed). If all goes to plan then I'll book it in to get tuned before the end of the month cause I'd really like to get to the test and tune day on at Baskerville first weekend of August which would be perfect to put a few kms on it while being able to keep an eye on everything.

Ford "Blueprint" Code is UU awesome looking cars too!

Hey man do you have the plug off the dash loom that plugs into the headlight switch cause mine is melted.

Well it's awesome little bumpy in patches but nice tight drivers track. I took my old 31 around there twice and had an absolute ball. Are you from devonport? With a gunmetal 32 GTR?

Is that the one at basky? Yeah I hope to be there even if it's not rego'd yet. It'll probably be a perfect day for me being test and tune as I'll still be running it in.

Na man it's got a cradle soldered in and I'm pretty sure it's an aftermarket chip in it. Came out of the car when it was running and went rather hard so not sure whats on the chip. Wanted $120 for it.

Not yet man I got my turbo back last thursday and went to my engine builder yesterday and he grub screwed one of the banjo bolts while I waited so that'll be easy enough. I was just pissed that I only took one in cause I was trying to get 2 replacements from Enzed and get them done so I could swap them out if I needed the stock ones again but they didn't have them. Now I have to try and get the other one to him sometime next week so I can put it all back together next weekend and see if it fixes the problem. Fingers crossed.