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trustr32

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Everything posted by trustr32

  1. Stock piping sold Short shifter sold Stock manifold sold A/c setup sold Pod filters sold Also have the standard R32 GTR fuel pump for sale $40
  2. And I'll come to it........... if my car is going by then Bring it over man the more the merrier............. is that how you spell merrier or is it merryier.......... god knows anyway it's easy to get it roadworthied and swapped over. Most of the imports down here are from the mainland anyway
  3. What car is the loom out of? If it's a 32GTR then the plug is on the body loom where I pointed it out. It comes out of the relay box next to two white/blue stripe wires. And yes if your running stock GTR injectors you need the resistor.
  4. It's near the relay box and the plug for the factory boost control solenoid behind the right hand headlight. It actually mounts to the same bracket as the boost control solenoid so the plug should be near that.
  5. Well I haven't updated this in a while as I haven't been too impressed with what's been going on. I got my new Aeromotive FPR and installed that and set the fuel pressure (seals a treat and looks really good) I hade up some pod filter adapters for my AFM's and got some mushroom pod filters installed. Got my new thermostat housing from Kudos Motorsport and when I removed the broken one I finally realised what the problem was. It seems that the thermostat was slipping at the last moment when tightening the housing up causing it to get jammed between the housing and the block which then cracked the housing so to remedy this I glued the housing into the block with a little bit of sealant to stop it moving then put the housing on. Worked a treat and after putting a radiator sock in the radiator I proceeded to warm the car up. Car warmed up fine idled great we mucked around with the injector duty cycle a bit but it all looked pretty good so I decided to test out the clutch. Foot in and wouldn't go into gear. I turned it off jacked it up and got under there to try and bleed it a bit more but no difference. In the end I had to remove the little for that attaches the pedal to the master cylinder and adjust it right out. Let me tell you that is NOT a fun job when it's all still in the car. Anyway got it adjucted out and started the car and hey presto my clutch worked! Did a few engagements up and down the driveway and then i let Jack check out the pedal feel which is really really light but engages nice and firmly when I noticed there was a shitload of smoke coming out of the exhaust. I got Jack out of the car and we had a look and decided that when my old turbo's leaked it must've filled the exhaust with oil and that I really should clean it out before getting it tuned. So I jacked it up that night and removed the exhaust and cannon and gave it a flush with degreaser and decided I'd give the muffler a quick polish. I originally wasn't going to remove the Y-pipe but thought I better and glad I did cause once removed I looked up into the dump pipes and noticed that the front one was coated with fresh oil. f**k ME this is exactly what happened with the car before I pulled the engine out. But a brand new turbo leaking oil past the seal surely I couldn't be so unlucky. Well turns out I am that unlucky. I went to my tuner and asked him his opinion he reckoned faulty seal so I had to cancel tuning. I asked my engine builder he reckoned faulty seal. I went and asked a friend down here running a similar setup with the same turbo's in his race car he reckoned faulty seal. I rang Mick from Boostn Imports where I bought the turbo's from and he was really helpful. He got me to check the oil pressure which at the oil filter housing was fine. I aslo checked to see that I didn't have a blocked oil drain which I didn't. In the end Mick got me to send it up to MTQ in QLD who inspected it and let me know last week that it's all 100% and has suggested that I need to check the pressure at the turbo feeds and use an inline restrictor in each to reduce the amount of oil going into the turbo's. So thats where I'm at at the present moment. Waiting to get my turbo back, need to try and sort out getting some restricted Banjo bolts made up and then fitting everything back up and checking to see if it will work. I am almost to the point of throwing in the towl with this car. If I had a shed of my own I would be locking it in there and forgetting about it for 12 months but unfortunately it's in my brothers shed and he need's it outta there so I have to get it up and going to get it out of his way. In hindsight I should've put on a GT35/40R with custom Manifold from the guy who made the manifolds for my twins and then if I had these drama's everything would've been so much simpler to get to and fix. But I am where I am and I've come too far with this setup to swap now so perseverence is the best option.
  6. Which restrictor is that? Not the one's in the head? I haven't put any restrictors anywhere the shop that did the build did all the usual oil mod's larger galleries, head restrictors, external drain etc. Is there supposed to be one where the feeds come out of the block for the turbo's?
  7. Engine was tired breathing really heavy and dumping alot of oil into the intakes. Before I pulled the engine out I pulled the intake pipes off and the turbo's were both about half full of oil. Yeah I cleaned the cooler out completely all new custom cooler piping and intakes. I bought an aftermarket gauge the other day but it doesn't have a sensor with it so I'm still trying to sort that out at the moment. I've been searching on here for the last hour and everyone says that the 2860 range from garret have restrictors from factory but a few guys have said they ran a 0.8mm banjo bolt on theirs just wondering if this could be the problem? I would of thought that it mouldn't have become apparent this early though as I havent even had the revs past 2k. The trust pump has it's operating pressure stated as 800rpm=100kpa 2000rpm=300kpa 6000rpm=400kpa That means it's not even seen more that 45psi oil pressure. It looks as though it had only just started to leak too as it had only dribbled about 3inches into the y-pipe.
  8. Alright lads It's almost the last straw I Have finally got my GTR running after a long rebuild and have it booked in to get a run in tune on friday. It's a forged engine with everything new and new Garrett -5 turbo's. I got it warmed up and the cooling system bled today but there was alot of oil smoke coming out of the exhaust. Before I pulled the engine out there was a shitload of oil going through the motor so the exhaust was full of oil and I didn't clean it out so I decided to pull it off tonight and do just that. When I pulled the Y-pipe off I noticed that the inside of the front dump pipe was coated witrh fresh gold oil but the rear one was as dry as burnt toast. What have I missed or could there be something wrong with the seals in the front turbo. The engine has run for 10 minutes in total absolutely tops and the rev's havent been past 2000rpm. I have a trust oil pump so could it be that there is excessive oil pressure to the turbo's? I didn't put any restrictors in the feed lines as I was assured that the turbo's had them already fitted and my Oil pressure gauge has died so I can't tell anyone what the oil pressure is reading but there's definately oil pressure as all the oil feed's and drains and my oil cooler were warm after running it so it is circulating. Any idea's would be a great help I have contacted the guy I bought them off but I'm waiting for a reply to let him know just incase there is something wrong with the turbo but it's looking like I'm gonna have to cancel the tuning now which has really pissed me off. Anyway any help appreciated.
  9. Just thought I'd post a few of my old Ti.
  10. Good work there Jack good to see it's getting a bit of attention again. Wont be long and I'll be bugging you to come to Basky every 5-6 weeks lol. I got a bit done on mine over the weekend trial fitted my half finished splitter and started making a catch can/radiator overflow (well cutting it out so Jack can make it lol) oh and I broke another thermostat housing and hacksawed my thumb.....
  11. Well I've finally got my car booked in to get a once over and a run in tune on Friday May the 4th with Pro Automotive in Moonah so can't bloody wait till thats done. Anyway since my last update I've broken 2 thermostat housings the first one was leaking round one of the bolt holes, pulled it off and it was cracked near the hole got a secondhand one off a mate and put that on the other day barely even tightening it up and bam broke that one too so I've ordered a new one of Kudos motorsport hopefully should be here early this week so I can get it put on (I'm not doing it cause I'm obviously doing something wrong lol) and get the car running and warmed up a few times to flush the cooling system a bit. I'm getting a new FPR as the one I've got is leaking out of the bungs so I'm going to get an Aeromotive one with O-ring seals to try and avoid all the thread sealing crap. I got the front bar back on the car and although it is in pretty rough shape and needs a paint asap it's starting to look alot like a car again. I dragged my half finished splitter out from under the house too and test fitted that for a laugh. Iwas going to stick with a full fiberglass undertray but I've decided to cut that out and rivet an aluminnium undertray to the bottom of the splitter. Anyway thats a job for way in the future when I've actually got some cash and time again but for now I started cutting out my catch can/radiator overflow and mocking it up ready for Jack to weld it all together for me. Well thats all for now Hopefully have some more pics of bits and pieces next weekend as I've got to get it all sorted out and ready for the mechanic in a fortnight then hopefully some video of it going on the trailer under it's own steam.
  12. Hey lad's some pictures I have been meaning to put up for a few days now. Afew things are on hold for a few people and the short shifter is already sold to NISSANGTS Stock intercooler pipes, A/C setup, stock mani's and pods with adapter elbows are on hold for jangles S13 camber tops are on hold for pipster Here's pics of the intercooler pipes layed out. Pic's of the camber tops And pics of the R32 GTR ecu it also has a link cable thats been put into it at some stage not sure what it's for exactly but it's got a jap sticker on it. A/c setup found out today that I must have ditched the 2 lines that run from the firewall to the condensor unit so looking for $90 now
  13. Pipster they fit the 31 strut tower but the threaded sleeves/ nuts they come with don't fit the thread on the top of the shocks. Well they didn't fit Monroe gt shocks anyway ji was going to get different ones machined but I sold the car before I got round to it. Sorry I've been slack I'll put pics tomorrow. Hi stuart sorry I spent the day down home today and I get stuff all reception I'm headed to Kingston in the morning so I'll give you a call then. Justin I bought them off eBay $50 a set with all the new metal plugs grommets and the actual plug housings.
  14. Hey mate I've got a stock GTR32 computer and resistor pack for sale in the Tassie section.
  15. Hey pipster sorry about that but I have obviously missed a 0 when I edited the post they're supposed to be $100 It has also deleted my mobile number so if anyone wants to txt me it's 0419176656 I'll get those pics up this arvo.
  16. Well I've finally finished putting my GTR back together and gave the shed a cleanout the other day and it's time to get rid of the leftovers mostly standard parts I've replaced with aftermarket items but a few aftermarket bits that came on the car. Nismo Gmax twin plate clutch pull type. Came with the car I didn't get enough time in the car to really test it out but it didn't seem to slip depending on how much you enjoy pulling out gearboxes I'd probably recommend a rebuild. $300 Standard manifolds and dumps $40 Standard cam gears $40 Standard computer with chip I only know this cause I removed the cover and had a look. It has a cradle soldered in with a chip in it. Not sure of what it's got on the chip but the car went unusually hard before I took it off the road. $120 Short shifter $50 Pod filters with elbows $75 R34 GTR Vspec2 Turbos I bought these off a member on here 2 years ago fitted them and drove the car for 3 days they had done 62,000kms when I bought them. They have .48 rears and .53 fronts and are ceramic wheels as far as I know. I have the serial numbers if anyone wants more info. $300 R32 GTR turbo x1 One of the old ones off the car when I bought it not sure of kms. .48 rear .42 front $50 Full aircon setup for GTR everything from the firewall forward inc pump/condenser etc might even have belt $120 GTR injector resistor module I have cut the plug off of this but the wiring is straight forward 1 white wire 6 black Offers Full set of stock GTR intake pipes inc the 2into1 blowoff valve return pipe Offers Replacement coil pack plugs x4 I needed 2 had to buy 6 $25 Stock thermo fan Offers Stock boost control solenoid Offers R31 series 3 headlights perfect condition $100 Jap spec yellow projector spotlights $40 Stickers 2x small 1xmed 1xlarge Offers Gearstick boot Offers Speco 7mm slip on wheel spacers Offers S13 adjustable camber tops Brand new I'll post pics tomorrow<p>$10
  17. As the topic states I'm after a thermostat housing for my GTR. Not really expecting to have much luck as it's not a part often upgraded and usually stays with the motor but worth a try. Cheers Brodie.
  18. Yeah man not on the road but got it fired up late sunday arvo. Spent two days diagnosing why it wouldn't fire turns out I needed to remove the injector resistor pack with ID1000's. Got to tidy up a few loose ends this weekend and hopefully book it in to get a run in tune in the next few weeks.
  19. I CAN quite happily say I dont know! I didn't look at the hand controller I know YOU might know But all I know is some trife that you dribbled in my ear about scaling the injectors and selecting AFM's you never told me you reset it so I guess that means YOUR the pole smoker! Also if you've got nothing constructive to say like where I might get that ally plate for my catch can from this arvo or what sard FPR I should get cause there is about a million on the net then dont get on here ranting and raving and giving me shit.
  20. Yeah man definately am. I'm gonna chat to the tuner this arvo hopefully. I just want him to give it a once over to double check everything for me and set it up with a run in tune. I bought the power fc second hand so I have no idea what's on there at the moment. I never built this for outright numbers just as a well setup hopefully capable car so I'm not looking to wring it's neck especially straight away. I'll let him set it up and give it a once over then put a couple of thousand kms on it or what ever he recommends then take it back in for a proper tune. I still need coilpacks and z32's before then anyway.
  21. Cheers for that N1GTR thats so simple I would have never worked it out lol. Thanks for the congrats too BK1990 I cant wait to get it tuned and out on the road. I've only ever driven it 3 times so it'll be interesting just learning how to drive the friggin thing (and a bit of fun) Anyway I've got a water leak I need to fix and I want to replace the FPR cause it's leaking out one of the fittings and I'm just not 100% happy with it. Other than that I need to plumb in the boost controller, bleed the coolant, check the oil level once it's run for a bit, get my air filters and bolt them on and make a catch can up for it and it should be right to send off to the tuners. I'll hopefully talk to him this week and book it in for as soon as I can and just work the rest around that. Then comes roadworthy...........
  22. I'll have to get on a computer as I'm only on my iPhone at the moment but I posted a link in the tassie section here: My link
  23. Thanks man it is good to hear that's for sure. We spent all arvo saturday and half of Sunday checking things cause it wouldn't fire. Looked like it wasn't getting spark so we thought maybe CAS but I took it off and turned it by hand and the injectors were pulsing. Removed all the plugs and tested them and had spark so obviously not spark. When we had the plugs out we could see that the tops of the pistons looked like they were dry as a chip plugs were dry too so must be a fueling issue. Long story short pulled reg off, checked all the plumbing to make sure I had the lines the right way round checked pump wiring even turned pump on with the reg out just to make sure we were getting fuel up to the rail. I was about to take the rail off and check the injectors when one of the guys form down here messaged jack on Facebook and mentioned to check that the injectors weren't high impedance. Upon reading the info they came with it turns out they are and we needed to bypass the resistor box. Searched the net for about half an hour for info on how to do this but couldn't find anything which I thought was odd considering that this would've been done a thousand times over but in the end we used logic that with 7 wires coming out of the resistor one being white the rest black and only the white one having power when dissconnected that they must simply be chopped and joined together. 30 seconds later we checked injector pulse to see if it was more that the 3-5 volts we were getting before and it sounded like it was starting to fire so plugged everything back up and away it went! Started first pop and sat there and idled away no problems couldn't wipe the smile off my face lol. Anyway I've got 3 or four videos I've only uploaded 1 to YouTube at the moment but I'll put the others up tonight and link them all here not unless someone can tell me how to actually host the video here so people don't have to click a link?
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