trustr32

Well Finally after a long 2 year wait the GTR finally comes to life! Spent all day saturday and most of yesterday troubleshooting and trying to work out why it wouldn't fire only to find out that with the new injectors I have I dont need to run the resistor dox. 30 second fix and fired up first turn! Thanks again to Burgz for sugessting to check that cause I was on the last straw ready to hand it over to someone who actually knew what they were doing lol.

Hey man I'm interested in the 4wd controller. Got any more info? Is it adjustable or just programmed to the 1 output?

Hey mate for some reason it wont let me PM you. Will you do the bonnet lip for $100 posted to Hobart Tas? Let me know cheers Brodie

Well stuff all that weight saving boys you can keep that (for a year or two anyway) More excitingly Is the fact that this weekend I should be firing up the GTR for the first time since the rebuild. Everything's pretty much back together got a few things left like install radiator, catch can and fill coolant/oil but hopefully by the end of easter it should be pretty much ready to send off for a tune! Just a few pic's for inspiration lol.

Yeah lucky I didn't have to pay the bastard lol. Na they look the shit on the car man. Hopefully turn it over on Sat or sunday depending if you go fishing or not. Just got your message but my phones still being a bitch.

Cheers man it's getting there. Well I have finally got it pretty much all back together now. I bought a new 750hp walbro fuel pump and put that in had to mod the cradle a bit but worked out ok. I also wired up the direct feed relay to it so it runs straight off the battery. Since the battery had been relocated to the boot it originally had brass junction boxes in the engine bay connecting up all the wires. I went to try and get some more appropriate ones but couldn't find any so I decided to wire a kill switch in for the positive and just earth the negatives out to the chassis. I bought some black and clear perspex sheeting to make a sheild for my intakes so I decided to use some of the black to make a mount for the kill switch. I finally got all my silicone joiners I was waiting for so I got all my cooler pipes connected and my mate made up my intakes and blowoff valve returns for me so I got all those plumbed in. I also had to paint the twin turbo pipe where I had modifyed it earlier. Once I had bolted the fuel tank back in I put the decat pipe back in and filled the transfer case I decided it was finally time to get it down off the chocks so thats what I did. Once back in the land of the living I thought I would be nice and give my brother his shed back so we put the bonnet back on and rolled it out into the driveway for the first time in a year and a half! I went back on sunday and gave it a wash for the second time since I've had it lol and bled the brakes, clutch and abs. I plumbed in the boost lines for the blowoff valves too. I also put the fan on and tightened the fan belt ready to go. I put the shifter all back in and the dash as well so it's finally looking more like a car again. Now all I've got left to do is tighten one of the heater hose clamps, hook up a boost controller, put the radiator in and fill with coolant, fill the engine with oil hook up the battery and it should be ready to fire up. Should be a pretty good easter.

I used the new filter sock which sat at a 90degree angle off the bottom of the pump so I had to mount the pump directly upright. It wasnt until I went to put it back in the tank that I realised it wouldn't go lol so I had to pull it apart put it in the tank and attach it in there. Bit of a bitch and I'm sure there is an easier way lol.

I'm not sure how he went but I just put one of the 750hp 400lph in my R32 GTR last weekend and I had to mod the cradle a fair bit. It's mounted well in the end but it's not a drop in replacement.

Awesome looking car man and I used to agree with you about N1 skirts being the only ones for a GTR but when I bought mine it had Trust Gracer skirts and Trust rear pods on it and with the BBS rims it looked pox but with my 17x10 D1R's on it I'm now in love with them. Quality build your doing too by the way.

Cheers man Finally got a bit more done to the car in the last few weeks. I sorted out all my boost lines for my actuators and then put my starter motor and front drive shaft back in. I got a new water line for the front turbo and fitted them all up. I fitted my blowoff valves but had to later remove them again to fit the new intercooler piping which I finally nagged my mate enough to come and weld up. (really I ended up painting his interior of his 33 for him while he did the welding lol). Also picked up some tyres off another SAU member down here. Like I said finally got my intercooler piping made up but realised when I had taken off my front housings off my turbo's I hadn't rotated them enough to clear my strut brace so I ended up having to modify the twin turbo pipe a bit but it's all good now. With my cooler piping I decided to paint them satin black. Mainly because the polished alloy took away from the cam covers a bit and it's a pain to maintain but also looks a little more factory incase the po-po get to nosy lol. I still need to make up my intakes which we will hopefully start this weekend but stainless isn't quite as easy to work with so might take a bit longer than the alloy stuff. I also moved the power steering resivoir to make room for them. I managed to get my oil cooler mounted and the guards and sideskirts back on the car so it's starting to look like a car again. I'm waiting on a heap of reducers and joiners for my piping and need to sort out the plumb back for the blowoff valves but once I get them sorted out and wire up my junction boxes where the battery used to be it should be very close to being able to start. I'm sure I'll find a few more little things before then but it's so close I can nearly smell it!

Hey man did you buy a kit made for that location or just the core? I bought one designed to go in the LHF inner guard and it came with instructions of where to mount it but I ended up mounting mine behind the grill for god knows what reason might move it yet cause now the hoses are a bit too long but here's a photo for you anyway. Hope it helps. Also if your trying to mount it behind the reo it doesn't sound like it'll get much airflow.

Chasing a coil pack plug for an RB26. I accidentally stepped on the end one when I had my loom out a few weeks ago.

It's not a him it's a her. My mates ex. And she's not on the forum. I painted the whole kit so I'll find out today what brand they were for you.

You need to only take out enough to clear the tyres. Taking out too much will weaken the car as the outer and inner panels are all welded together for strength/so they hold their shape. Have you got the wheels you'll be fitting to the car yet? Putting them on and seeing how much clearance you'll need is a good place to start. You wont really be saving alot of weight by fitting fiberglass quarters it's mainly for asthetics/to fit big rubber.

+1 for that I've been avoiding my boost lines for a while now although I'm glad to see that the evap purge lines that run behind the rear timing cover are only emissions stuff cause I forgot to put them back on before setting all my timing up and I'm not taking the timing belt off again just for that.

When I was putting the gearbox in I crossthreaded one of the gearbox mount bolts so I had to tap the thread and get a new bolt but it's all fixed now. I bought some -6 braided line and a heap of fittings and made up all my fuel lines yesterday. I was originally going to convert my Hicas lines into new feed/return lines but the hard line to braided hose fittings I bought werent the right size so I'm just running the standard ones for now and I'll sort something else out later when I upgrade my fuel setup. I also got my O2 sensor adapters and installed them. Mounted all my coil packs and plugged in the injector loom and coilpack loom. Bolted on my inlet cam cover for good now and put my timing cover on so it's starting to take shape. I still need to bolt up the turbo water feed and return lines then I can put all the crossover pipes and turbo intake pipes on and start making all my piping up. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get time to bolt my tailshaft, starter motor and frontshaft in then I can get it back down on the ground again. On friday I was test fitting my little brothers new front bar for his 33 and had to do some fiberglassing to it which re-motivated me to dig out my splitter that I'd thrown under the house a few months ago when it went a bit pear shaped. It was originally my mould that I was planning to make the splitter from but when I went to start fiberglassing it I realised that I couldn't get my fingers down inside it to lay the fiberglass so I cracked the shits and glassed the split down the centre together after which I forgot about it for a while. Anyway I took to it with the grinder the other day and have decided to make that into the actual splitter so I've started turning it into the finished shape that i want then I'll work out how to make replicas from there. And the all important (read dodgey) thing I did today was wind the clock back. I figured if I'm going to have a new engine I may as well start fresah on the colck. Plus who'd believe 32000km's anyway lol.

Well it's been a while so bout time for an update. I managed to get the car jacked up at the end of last year but didn't get time to put the gearbox in till after christmas. It took a bit but was nowhere near as bad as I was dreading. My brother sat on the centre console with a rope around the tail of the box and a mate and I lay under the car with a jack and twisted and wiggled it until after about 10 minutes it went in. I had to pour the oil out of the transfer case cause before I pulled the box out I trial fitted a short shifter and it jammed in there and the little plastic cup on the end of it fell into the gearbox so I managed to get that out. I also changed the gearbox oil with redline shockproof for good measure. I got my cooler bends just before christmas but I have only mucked around a little with them I'm going to wait till my mate and I have a full weekend free to get them bowled over. I also changed my injector plugs over to suit the ID1000's. I had to buy some alloy tube and make 22mm spacers for my fuel rail. I got my y pipes bolted back up and my intercooler back on ready to make the piping up.

I'd be interested but how much would a roll retrim? Would it do all the interior?

Lol yeah I certainly cant complain........... well actually I can it's still not on the damn road! Oh well only 1 way to remedy that and thats spend all Australia day working on it lol.

Dang man where was this 2 years ago when I was looking for a 25/26 gtst! Nice buy man looking forward to seeing how this turns out. Good luck with it and hope to see it on the track when mines out there.

Etch primer is acid based so it literally etches into the surface of the metal creating a bond between them instead of just sitting over the surface. I painted my cooler with UPOL powercan satin black there's some photo's in my build thread I think. That is the best 1k satin black in a can I've come across and it has a really good fan on the spray can and leaves a nice even finish even on flat surfaces.

Yeah 2 pack paint will dry harder is less prone to chipping and especially peeling when replacing tyres etc. Other than that great work man really good looking result. Next time get some red scotchbrite to get into all the little corners where you cant reach with sandpaper to scuff the surface right up before primer which will make them less likely to peel in those areas.

Only one timeattack and I'm not gonna be ready! Are they planning to use this as a tester and include more if the numbers are there or?

Yeah you definately want an Airwash hood for resprays but no need with the smaller stuff. 2Pack is not the best for your health thats why I quit lol. At the end of the day it's all about the finished product so if it turns out well then alls well but you would only ever blend solid colours half way through a panel and even then you need to prep it correctly or your edge will show/peel back when polishing the blend.

That wont cause any issues especially in the interior but you still only want a light coat on it just enough to cover the metal and seal it off so it wont rust.