rabs_33gtst

Hi guys...TPS on my rb25 is screwed...just want to know if its possible to use the tps off an rb20...are there any differences and/or will i need to make any mods to make it work if its possible? cheers

Did the diagnostic check in the transmission and found out that my tps and shift solenoid b are goners....not sure if that explains the low oil pressure, but if i have shorted them out by screwing around with my stereo, something else could be rooted too...put on a 3rd AFM (which i know def works) and i didnt notice any difference with the oil pressure guage....

Worked a treat for me mate...the 3rd flash and 5th flash were longer so TPS is rooted and the Shift solenoid B is gone...cheers heaps for the post and hope it all works out..

Cheers, yeah ill give it a go and let you know.....it was after i f**ked around with the stereo in my car and the car felt like it was dragging ass and won't go into 3rd or 4th at all (pretty much as soon as i finished with the stereo) only drives in second and if i get to about 80km/hr the revs are at 3000rpm and if i let the accelerator go revs drop to 1000rpm or sometimes lower...checked all the fuses, replaced them (non were damaged, but just as a precaution and went through all the fuses in the engine bay and connections with contact cleaner (no difference). cheers

I have had the power button flash everytime i start the car in the last 2 weeks too...asked several of my mates and they dont have a clue lol any info would be much appreciated

Yeah i know cause i have tried to read as many as i can to gauge what is happening lol...changed A/F meter with no result (although their is no way of telling exactly wether or not the one i replaced it with is any good either ...wondering if it could be oil pump (for low oil pressure), plenum still (changing it today), fuel pump screwed or needing a better earth (my economy has gone to shit), the a/c compressor is worn(?), TPS gone (?), ACC gone(?), ECU (playing up?) Power steering pump gone (?) A/T starting to go (not holding rev's in drive ?)...... I know their are topic for several issuses and i know i sound like a noob, but would just like to know anything else that could have an effect so i can make a list and check them off cheapest to most expensive lol I have gone over all the electrical plugs and give them a hit with contact cleaner, checked all hose and piping connections, checked intercooler piping to turbo and their is no oil inside, opened the radiator cap and started the car to see if their is any bubbling (head gasket check). Changed the vacume line setup for BOV and Boost T with no result, serviced the car etc...

Yeah i have the exact same issue with mine....car runs fine, idols at about 700-800rpm. When i put the car into drive and take off (driving out of the garage) it feels very very .....laggy....like it is dragging ass just to get moving, then for example when it gets to 2000rpm and i back off to stop and turn out of the drive way it either dies or drops to about 200rpm then back up to idle rpm. Oil pressure is at about 2-3kg (had dropped below 1kg yesterday for some reason??) Have adjusted the BOV with no results, Cleaned AAC valve and tweaked the idol from 500/600 to 800rpm (from DIY on here) with no result and cleaned throttle body with no result. Looks like the gasket around the plenum is leaking so im going to change that too to ensure there is no vacum leak (i have tried to check every vacum line etc in the engine bay) in this area aswell. Would just like to know what other problems i might be overlooking in an attempt to fix the prob myself before taking it to a mechanic lol........ Cheers

Stock steering wheel Rocker cover gaskets Power steering pump.............SOLD Headlights...SOLD pending payment Series 1 Door...SOLD pending payment Ill find out and let you know as soon as possible mate

Ended up buying an EMS Stinger 4424 off a guy on Boostcruising...$650, which wasnt too bad. Keep the factory ecu (to control the auto) and wire the stinger in to control the rest. Means i dont have to swap factory ecu's and iv'e basically got a stand alone ecu, which i can use as a piggy back. I dont need a z32 afm either lol..so now i just need to get everything in the car and tuned.... post my results on dyno as soon as its all done... cheers everyone for the input and if anyone has any more info that my help myself and or others with emanage tuners and tuners in general around southeast qld..keep it coming thanks brendan

Sean at EFI said that shouldn't be any drama putting either r32 or z32 auto... ecu's in my car for a nistune, just that with the r32 ecu you will lose VCT, and with the z32 ecu they have to rewire for timing and injectors. Only effect on the auto transmission is a slight increase in lenght of the gear changes between 1st and 2nd. Also chasing an EMS Stinger ecu on here second hand ($600 without loom), but atleast i have a bit more of an idea on which way to go now... This has given me quite a bit to think about and thanks everyone for the help..much appreciated. cheers...

Sorry for my poor wording..... i did mean that EFI told me if i use an auto r32 or z32 ecu, then the only problem i may have with the 33 transmisison is a slight increase on the lenght of gear changes between 1st and 2nd....no way would i give them a manual ecu to nistune for my auto...like you said STATUS...BIG BIG problems lol....and ill def concider an auto z32 ecu as to keep my vct for the nistune...i mean any reliable tuner shouldn't have a problem wiring up the z32 into the r33 right?.. cheers for the feedback everyone!

Yeah talked to the guys at EFI in brisbane this morning.....he said either ecu will do (even for auto). KJBr33 is right you get to keep your vct, however there is that bit of wiring for them to do, whereas the r32 ecu is straight fit in, but you will lose your vct. Said the only effect on the gearbox was that the change from 1st to 2nd is a little longer in the auto box... interesting.....

Cheers pear, yeah i had a few people on boost recommend EFI today aswell (for nistune), so im going to give them and nistune a call first thing tomorrow and see what they can do about my little ecu problem....

Yeah believe me, if i can find out if i can get the z32 auto ecu, to work as a replacement for the ecr33 ill be getting a nistune no worries lol....

Yeah but to get a nistune for a ecr33 you need to replace the ecu with that of an r32 or a Z32 (z32 being the better choice from what im told), so i would like to know if ANYONE has any experience with this and what the effect on the auto transmission will be by replacing the stock ecu with the z32 ecu (if its AUTO)......hope that clears my dilema up....unless my dilema is unwarranted lol....

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Thanks for the help everyone!!! STZ sound pretty good for the emanage and anymore info....KEEP IT COMING LOL...... finally a bit off topic, but has anyone got info on whether or not a z23 vg30dett AUTO ecu, will work as a replacement for the ecr33 auto ecu??? because if that was the case i could also concider a nistune for my ecu option aswell.....

Hi guys...any help with info on whether or not you can use a z32 VG30DETT Auto Ecu on Nissan r33 to replace the ecr33 ecu with Auto transmission...because i want to get Nistune, but want to make sure that its not going to effect the auto transmission in the car? Cheers

Hi guys...looking at getting a greddy emanage ultimate installed on my AUTO...r33 gtst. I know most tuners like efi, apc, 999, pits etc.. have speicalise in particular brands of ecu's, and I would just would like some help in deciding which tuner to pick that does good work with the greddy ecu's around south east QLD (either coast, brisbane etc). Cheers

+1 for GTR aswell...id love one but dont have 30k to spend lol, and can't get shit for an auto 33, even with mod's and TLC hahah

No drama's....well if you have that sort of money to spend then their is a fair amount that you can do to the vehicle. Now what you want will depend alot on what sort of power you want and how you will use the car (ie, daily driver etc). If your going for big power, id probably suggest engine work straight of the bat..weather you rebuild the motor in the car you buy or buy a f**ked motor from someone, get that rebuilt and sell your engine once your ready to replace with the worked one. (looking at 5-8k for all the machining, pistons, rods, cams, bearings, headgasket etc if your paying someone to do the work . Otherwise you could just put new bearings and headgasket in your engine if you want a reliable stock engine, but i wouldn't suggest anything over 250-270rwkw but im no mechanic lol...........alot of people on here say set a goal...say 230rwkw or 300rwkw..find out what you need to comfortably hit that mark in terms of engine components, suspension, brakes, ecu, etc...and stick with it...cause unless you got the 30k to drop straight away its going to take time lol.... You could keep going on and and in this topic, but your best bet is to just read the forums, take in some results other people have had and what modifications they have, the best places to get work done, best tuners, reliable parts, etc.... this should give you an idea of where to start....http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb25-Turbo-Upgrade-Dyno-t55845.html hope that helps somewhat

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Headlights Stock steering wheel Rockercover gaskets Power steering pump (with bracket) All listed on EBAY due to not selling, so if you would like to purchase these i will have them posted on ebay, or if they don't sell then they will once agian be able to buy through this thread..... CHEERS

Hey guys....chasing an ecu for auto r33...i have read most of the forums on it and like the guys stated before, im not after a power fc, (unless i do the manual conversion, which isn't happening any time soon). I was leaning towards a Greddy Emanage or a HKS FCon V Pro...but would like to hear any information about the emanage from people who have run one or had experience with one...on paper it looks like a good piggyback ecu, but would just like know what im looking at or any drawbacks if i purchase one?... cheers

Agree with oldr31.....but if your going straight after a HKS kit Also Add: ECU - Power FC, Haltech, Wolf, Microtech etc...depending on how much you wanna spend - Power FC would be the wise choice for $1200 - $1600 Electronic BOOST CONTROLLER - Greddy Profec B, Eboost street (avoids boost spikes) Turbo timer- greddy, hks, apexi Fuel pump- Walbro 255L Bosch 040 external etc..... Injectors: 480's out of Nissan s15 will do, or go higher to 550's etc..... 3'' or 4" Pod filter.... BOV Coilpacks- Spitfires AFM - z32.... Fuel Pressure regulator..... Oil Catch Can.... ++++TUNE+++++ List can go on and there are many other options..but this just more or less puts you in the safe zone of running anything above 14psi without worrying about stress on your engine and some of your engine parts like injectors and running the car too lean, then you have to factor in installation of everything and trying to abide by out countries emmision laws and aviod the boys in blue defecting you....oh and the BOV is just too sound good....lol...