StageaBen

Thanks for all the help guys I've looked/listened for leeks at idle but non are obvious. I do have a vacume guage fitted so if i new what vacume my car is supposed to have at idle i could test it that way. I pulled apart my air flow sensor and re soldered the all the "problem" spots but it didn't make any difference. I tried reving the car in park and it revs happily to 4-5k(no point thrashing it) which it wont do under load as it generates boost well before then. This leads me to agree that its prob a boost leek. So i guess now i'll have a look around the forums and see if i can find a good way to test for boost leek.

I own an automatic 1999 dayz edition stagea it has the rb25det neo motor which I think makes it a second generation rb25det. Starting from the beginning The car developed a hesitation under boost (The boost had been increased by the previous owner via a bleed valve but wasonly running around 10psi) I had already been advised that although the level of boost should be ok a bleed valve alone with a standard ecu is likely to cause problems. I turned the bleed valve off completely which brought the boost down to about 5-6psi and seemed to fix the problem. After about a week the problem came back so i started to ask around and see what might be wrong. I spoke a mechanic an auto electrician and a turbo diesel mechanic and they ALL told be it would be my coils. The problem started to get worse and when hesitating the car would blow thick black smoke. So bad that it would dirty the whole back of may wagon. Then my engine light came on and wouldn't go away. So even though my coils looked perfect to me i replaced them all with new genuine ones from nissan. I also replaced the plugs with new ones from nissan for my model stagea. I did the ecu reset (batery/brake light method) Engine light went away but problems didn't After about a week the engine light was back again so I hit the forums and found out how to bring up the fault codes. The computer told me I had a faulty hot air sensor(sensor in your exhaust just after the turbo). I replaced that with a brand new nissan sensor. Engine light is happy now but i'm still sad. I thought it could be the air flow sensor so i pulled it out and cleaned it with break cleaner but it didn't change anything. Thats where i am up to now. I can drive around fine as long as i stay below 0.2 bar!!! So if the turbo spools at all I start blowing smoke and my power drops to the point where the car stutters and slows till the boost drops. coincidently it also seems to happen if i go over about 2500rpm which is about when i start to make boost. Any advise you guys could give would be a huge help. I can't afford to just keep putting brand new parts in my car.

Hi guys OK here is the prob. I recently purchased a Stagea that was advertised here and on ebay. It's a great car and I got it for a good price There were a couple of snags though. It was advertised as having an alarm and immobiliser. After seeing the car i realised all was not as it seemed. There was no alarm/immobiliser and the car was registered in SA which was a surprise cause the guy selling it lived in Sydney. I got an alarm fitted straight away which cost me about $700 which was a little annoying. But i'm scared that when i go for the blue slip things will turn ugly. The main concern i have is the glass in the car. The front windows are tinted but i believe they are not so dark as to be illegal but the back windows a VERY dark and they aren't tinted they are dark glass. They look fantastic but if i fail on them i'm screwed as i can't just peel the tint off. Does anyone know where the best place to go is for a blueslip? And by best i mean least picky. I live in Wollongong NSW. I need to get this done ASAP cause i'm assuming that the guy i bought the car from will eventually cancel the rego on me. I know there would be people here who have had to deal with similar situations before and i'm hoping to use there experience. Thanks in advance guys.