eightsixboy

If you didn't know what you were looking for you should of at least got someone to come with who does know what there looking at. Not having a go you but your really just setting your self up for disappointment trusting any dealer/private seller. What the dealer has done is very common, its exactly why you don't buy a car from a dealer, you can't trust the f**kers, the amount of dodgy stuff they do is ridiculous. Just take it as a lesson learned and try to get the dealer to fix what you can and go from there. In the mean time call consumer affairs and see what they say. Things like rear main leaks will be very hard to get them to fix under their 'warranty', unless its absolutely pissing oil out its still technically roadworthy, if its just an oil sweat or minor leak I wouldn't even worry about it, it could even be the rockers leaking down over the gearbox. End of the day its a 20 year old car, things are going to leak, you can't really expect a dealer or private seller to have everything on the car 100% perfect when selling.

Bump. Price drop to $1250 ono.

Engine had done over 250k but it had the wrx heads fitted at around 120k or so, was a common issue with the rs heads to gunk up, so Subaru would replace heads under warranty with wrx ones, pretty sure they did crank bearings and pistons as well, was a common thing to get done.

I had an RS liberty sedan for awhile, was pretty modded, 150awkw or there abouts, was a good car, except the gearbox issues . With the clutch don't get a HD, will destroy the box pretty quickly. Mine somehow broke the 1st/2nd selector fork in normal driving, was rebuilt a few years before I bought it and when I stripped it down it was due for another rebuild, the 5 speeds don't take well to hard driving.

Bump.

I remember a guy on 31club who spent a hideous amount of money on a n/a rb26 and it was very disappointing. I seriously wouldn't bother.

Hi all, Selling a full set of BBS Rs wheels with centre caps. 5*114.3. Wheels in good condition, no buckles or dents, just minor rash as seen in pics. Fronts are 8 +45 with falken fk452 235/45 60% tread Rears are 9 +53 with falken falken fk452 275/40 5% tread $1400ono Located in Vermont. Can post if buyer organises.

So did the OP buy it of lotusGTR or someone else? I even remember this car as I was going to go look at it, still looks in good nick with decent mods now. I feel sorry for the OP as if he bought it under the impression it was a Vspec with low km's then someone has done a dodgy somewhere down the line.

Hi all, Can't seem to find any info on these, asked the seller but from the broken english he gave me I can't tell if there actually work wheels or not. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/17-x-8-9-5-x-114-3-Work-Euroline-Wheels-Rims-Skyline-200sx-R33-R32-S14-S15-/360686434751 Anyone know what they are? Searched on google and no results for any Work eurolines in that style come up at all. Thanks.

Sold.

Sorry located in Vermont Vic. It had been tuned and set up for a toyota 1GGTE but the tune has been erased from the unit. It comes with the main harness, ignition and injection harnesses.

Don't use the rails as there really soft, even the sill which they recommend are to soft for stands. My old 32 had completely demo'd sills and rails from previous owners jacking the car up incorrectly.

Errrr wtf?

Up for sale is a Greddy E Manage blue. Comes with additional injector and ignition harnesses. Great unit, only a few months old, selling due to going full standalone ECU. $300 ono

Pros : RWD, Manual Cons : P plate tax, expensive for what you get, cop attention, expensive first car, slow(ish) Seriously for a first car don't bother, buy something light like a ae86, ke70, Honda or something, no point going out and spending big on a n/a skyline for your first car, I know you really want the car but you really need to start with something cheap.

The soarers are a great car, perfect for what your looking for (daily/comfort). I have only driven a n/a 3.0 version, as you would expect it felt very boaty. The V8's are pretty heavy and not the best on fuel, I think the turbo six is the best out of the two. Besides minor electrical problems with the dash I don't think they have any major issues. I was going to buy one awhile ago but the weight of the car kind off turned me of them, that and the doors are freakin huge.

Maybe there just happy?

The jacking points will be on the sills (just in from the side skirts). Pretty sure there meant for emergency jacking only but for a hoist there really the only place you can use. And that pic you have is basically what every hoist should have anyways, they should all have rubber pads.

Don't know if 33 rails are as soft as 32's but best to avoid the rails. Anyone know why there so soft? Considering the sills also squash pretty easy where are you meant to use?

I've had nothing but good dealings with them to, they are always very professional.

Hi all, Just had my LSD fitted with new bearings. Now the shop said to drive for 1000 km's not exceeding 80km/h, no trips longer then 50 km;s, but the run in pamphlet they gave me was for new gear sets and not for new bearings only. What do you guys recommend? I have already completed 500 km's, first 100-200 was slow driving with plenty of figure 8's for the LSD to run in. Should I just drop the oil now and be done with it? Just seems a bit excessive to have to do 1000 km's for only bearings. Thanks.

As already mentioned the cars still registered as been turbo, doesn't matter what's actually in there. Just buy a non turbo car to begin with, there's plenty of non turbo 33's etc around.

Im keen on the KU36's. Any chance of you bringing them closer to the cbd?

Chasing some R32 gtr wheels. Shoot me a PM. Cheers.

Don't worry I'll be flying the Toyota flag to