Vanilla_Rice

Yeah I'm messing around with that fuse alot lately, its not blown and I'm sure it works because I can hear something like the "attessa primer"?? when ever the fuse is plugged in, so I'm pritty sure the fuse is doing its job. I know in the past (when my 4wd used to work) I used a fuse I bought from a gas station but that didnt work for some reason, had to source this fuse from a nissan wrecker.

Well i didnt remove it (yet) but I disconnected the plug and used to multimeter to test it. At 0 throttle it sits at zero ohms then when I open the throttle it starts to increase resistance and then goes open circuit almost straight away.. I open the throttle almost the whole way and it read 18ohms for about half a second then goes open circuit again. do you mean is there a bulb in the dash for 4wd? I dont know what you mean by globe sorry.

My GTS4 4wd is playing up. Can anyone help me please. So far I have done the following to try and diagnose whats wrong. I have jacked the rear wheels off the ground and slowly dropped the clutch to see if the front wheels try to move. They didnt move at all, had the rears spinning quite fast and no action front front what-so-ever. The 4WD light on the dash is not coming on when I start the car, and never comes on at all for that matter. I just checked the attessa ecu and I get 21 flashes, and then repeats. looking at this link: http://www.sussexjapclub.com/nissan-attess...des-vt2810.html 21: Throttle sensor or circuit Anyone know how to interpret this? or how I can fix it?

Havent looked for the 4wd light to turn on and off yet, will do next time.. It doesnt stay on thats for sure. havent checked the atessa ecu yet, but will very soon, I'm assuming if all is well it doesnt flash any codes at all?? I started another thread regarding a clunking noise at the front when I corner hard but I believe thats to do with excessively low ride height, also I almost always run it in 2wd, but from countless threads I've read this "shouldnt" have an adverse effect.

just jacked up the rear and dropped the clutch, nothing happened, rears spun but no action from the front what-so-ever. I did notice that the Attessa reservoir in the boot was initially at the max line, and after I did this test the level was about 2cm below the low mark. I doubt filling upto max will make it work, but havent tried that yet. Also, in the past I've used the wrong type of fuse in the 4wd system and it didnt work at all. But I'm pritty sure this fuse is right because after I connected it and turned ignition on I heard what I could only imagine is the attessa primer (definately not the fuel pump, this one sounds different) Sigh, Is this most likely the transfer case? or should I go fill up my attessa reservoir and bleed it to see if it makes any difference?

I'm guessing all these checks would be the same for a GTS4 aswell? I put the fuse in and checked my 4WD on some wet grass and only the rears were spinning. The reservoir in the boot is sitting on max. I suppose next point of action would be to bleed the atezza and then stick it on a 4WD dyno?

damn, and I suppose raising the car is my only feesable option to fix this?

I'm pritty sure I can rule that one out, its a clunking noise, not a schhrrrhrrrrreshhhhhhhhh noise

My r32 GTS4 makes a clunking noise when I corner hard ever since I lowered it, what exactly is making the noise? I know that CV joints make that noise when their on their way out, but the noise goes away when I put my standard shocks back in. So clearly the lowered shocks/springs are to blame. Want to have a go at a track day soon and cant take her out in this condition. edit: I suppose I should mention, I almost always drive the car in 2wd, Is it possible its related to the 4wd driveshafts/ CV boot's sitting at an angle they're not designed for?

Yesterday I installed one of these quick and easy HICAS lock shim kits, and was expecting the HICAS light to come on when I installed them. Well the light hasn't come on at all, even though the HICAS system is effectively locked.. I know the light works because the light comes on when I start the car, then turns off again. The HICAS was acting up before I put these washers in, felt like the back end was floating.. Anybody know why the light doesnt come on now? It's not really a big deal but Im kind of mystified about it.

I've had this problem for about 5 years on my gts4 lol! brad33gtst I'll take your advice and have a look at these rubber boots

Im sorry but there are alot of tuners out there that would consider themselves good at tuning, paying $1200 is a lot of money (I can understand no-one likes the feeling of being ripped off) especially compared to NZ where the most expensive place I know of is $800NZD or the more reasonable places 500-600NZD for a full tune... considering Australia most likely has more tuners to choose from I'd assume that would bring the price down or this Yavus guy is a whiz kid that has prooven his tunes are WAY better than everyone else's..

Im sorry but there are alot of tuners out there that would consider themselves good at tuning, paying $1200 is a lot of money especially compared to NZ where the most expensive place I know of is $800NZD for a full tune... considering Australia most likely has more tuners to choose from I'd assume that would bring the price down or this Yavus guy is a whiz kid that has prooven his tunes are better than everyone else's..

sounds like ill be sticking with the stock option for now ... i find it crazy that these aftermarket ones can crack, I suppose its to do with them expanding and contracting all the time.. found another stock manifold for $75NZD hell of a lot cheaper than a dud aftermarket one..

yeah true TiTAN, 250kw was basically the figure I wanted to get to but ill take anything over that 260, 270 who knows.. After going over the dyno results page it appears every gt3040 has easily over 250kw .. but having said that, most if not all of them have had bottom end work done, I on the other hand have not.. Id like to see more dyno printouts with the 3076 on an rb20 but have only seen one result at present, making 227kw if i recall but no printout.. I almost made that with the TD05, just dont want to run the risk of spending heaps on a new flash turbo if it isnt going to give me the peak output power im after. How much more lag are we talking about after all? I really have no idea how much sooner the 3076 will come on boost or weather I can gauruntee itll put me in the 250+ area

yeah I have heard good things about the stock manifolds.. but what about the clearance mounting a gt3040 onto it? I shouldnt run into any issues should I?

If this has already been discussed can someone please point me to it as I cant find any info.. Im about to revert back to a t3 flange turbo from going down the td05 path and need to eigther buy a stock unmodifed manifold for my rb20 or get one of these cheap $350NZD ones (not spending thousands on a flash one) to accomodate for it.. looking for around 250kw+ atw with the new turbo just need some helpful advice on weather id see any gains with manifolds like these or just go for stock again: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-203672556.htm Dont care about the cosmetic appeal, turbo will most likely be gt3040 so opinions on top vs side mount am keen to hear any clearance issues etc.. thanks in advance.

bump

Just wondering if anyone can tell me if a lock bar for an r32 GTR would fit on a r32 GTS4.. Just recently i had one sent to me and it appears the tie rod ends were too small in diameter to screw into lock bar holes on the sides.. The guy was saying I must have had my tie rods changed at some stage because he's sure the gtr bar would fit.. but i think he's sent me an r33 one.. cheers.

sub standard that manifold kicks ass, just look at the damn thing

wow thanks, kinda.. Just so were clear, this is New Zealand .. and its perfectly legal.. I didnt even install the filter thing, it magically appeared after mechanic installed the turbo, if its a stupid mod fine, but I just left it on cos i assumed it did something. Im not a mechanic!!, hence why I use this place to obtain answers, so enough with the flameing.. purple poofter thing??? come on, does it need to be black or something. but thanks, for your insightful answer I do appreciate it.. btw - the oil all over the place is from a crack in one of those pipes, yes it needs replacing..

I suppose i should mention that its a knock off chinese td05, probably explains a few things.. Although from my experience this turbo produced more hp than a genuine mitsi turbo on my last dyno run @ same boost but they generally dont last as long.

just took the hose off and went for a drive, made stuff all difference car is still laggy as hell.. was at about 14psi at 3800ish rpm .. so im highly doubting a new boost controller will make it any better. I was really hoping to produce my 19 pounds (current spring setup) at a lot lower revs with this td05 but hey, im not really sure what to expect running open boost like that.

yeah thanks for noticing but its not like I'm gonna be driving it around everywhere like this, I doubt ill go over 3k its just to see if the boost will build quicker since my lag is shocking

had me confused as hell here sorry, so basically since the external wastegate does what the actuator used to do I'd be right in saying yank that hose of that since the stock actuator / turbo setup is long gone