rb2534

Sold

Sold

This is from my previous post as an expression of interest but I couldn't work out how to change the title from EOI to For Sale. If it breaks any rules I will redo that add but please see the link below. Asking 10K as it sits with all the original parts except the upgraded injectors OR 9K on the wheels it came with, not the GTR wheels and with all the original parts mentioned in the post except the upgraded injectors http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445514-eoi-r34-sedan-in-adelaide/#entry7336239

Looking at selling up mine and my girlfriends car and buying one between us, as they both sit around heaps and we don’t need cars for work so no point paying 2 lots of rego and insurance. The car has done 122,000ks, I bought it at 90,000ks in August 2008 and all work was carried out within the past 12,000ks when the timing belt was done. I am a qualified mechanic so all work (Apart from the tuning) was done by me. The car has never missed a beat, drove it to Phillip island for the Moto GP and ran flawlessly there and back. Also did 2 track days and same thing, never got hot or had problems while out there and then drove it home. It has a manual conversion but I used the original dash and put the manual fascia on it so it didn’t have the gear selector bit on it. I have kept it all as well as the dash that I got with the conversion. I do an oil change every 2-3,000ks or 6 months depending what comes first and since been tuned it has had 2 sets of plugs in it, I am very picky with my maintenance on it. I don’t like having oil that has sat around for too long running in the engine so if I don’t drive it for a while that is the reason for the time based service interval too. Asking price is 14k with everything below, if you don't want the wheels, gauges etc I will negotiate on the price. General Maintenance -Greddy Timing Belt, Genuine Nissan W/Pump, Idlers, Bearings done at 110,000ks -New cam covers and half-moon seals as one cam cover developed a slight oil leak -Nismo Low Temp Thermostat -All drive belts replaced with new Gates belts February 2014 -New radiator because the top outlet broke when trying to put the hose back on during the timing belt and water pump change out Turbo/Intake/Exhaust -Turbo intake is metal piped running an Apexi Power intake filter as well, standard AFM -HKS BB 25/30 Turbo with a HKS Split Dump Pipe, Standard manifold -AM Performance exhaust from dump pipe back, for anyone who knows how good Andrews works is the system is 89db on testing so it isn’t loud but still flows very well. Andrew recently replaced a muffler as it was getting abit too loud for my liking. -Greddy Profec B Spec 2 Boost Controller, only set for low boost at 12psi is where it’s current making 230rwkw and 614nm of torque. The car is deceivingly quick may spin a little bit in 1st gear but it grips up really well and pulls good in every gear -I bought some bigger injectors for it but as I wanted driveability and response and 12psi boost is perfect so they are not installed. For the right price they will also be included in the sale. -Pro Flow Turn Flow FMIC Driveline -Converted to manual with an R33 gearbox filled with Redline shockproof oil -Heavy Duty Exedy clutch (Holds the power fine never slipped and isn’t too heavy for the street) -Nismo Gearbox Mount -Brand new Chromolly factory weight flywheel from Adelaide Clutch -All new flywheel and bell housing bolts were purchased from Nissan for the conversion ECU/Ignition/Fuel -Apexi Power FC + Hand controller (Hand Controller not installed but included in sale) -Splitfire Coil Packs with NGK BCPR6ES .8mm plugs (Last changed 25/4/14) -In tank Walbro 255 l/ph fuel pump which has been rewired from the battery for constant supply following the wiring chart on Skylines Australia forum Brakes/Suspension/Wheels and Tyres -New Remsa pads fitted April 2014, discs were cleaned up and system flushed and fluid replaced with TRW GP600 Dot 4 Racing Brake Fluid -Handbrake shoes had heaps of meat left on them so they were touched -HKS Hyper D coil overs -Whitline front and rear swaybars -Kazama front castor rods -R33 GTR Wheels, one has a small dent in it but overall excellent condition -Front tyres are 1,000k old Achillies 123S and the rears are the tyres that came on the wheels when I bought them. The fronts were changed due to camber wear Interior/Exterior -Factory Sunroof -Defi Gauges (Boost, Oil and Water temp) in the factory 3 gauge pod location with the control box in the DIN pocket below the CD player -The CD player is basic but does the job for me. It’s a Sony deck with Bluetooth and Ipod, Sony 6inch rear speaks and Fusion front speakers -Blue LED dash and centre console lights as well as a white LED interior light and blue LED parkers -Factory Xenon lights with a spare globe -Black wired alarm as per insurance request -Recently had rear window re tinted as it started to develop a few bubbles General Info Every single factory part, nut and bolt that was removed from the car for the upgrades will be included in the sale. I kept it all in case of a defect and would rather give it to the new owner than try and on sell it. I will also throw in the wheels it originally came on if wanted, some basic 17inch jap rims. Never had any hassles from cops and has never been defected. The things that need doing if I was going to keep it There are a few scuffs on the rear bumper thanks to the old man backing into a small post above the muffler and some random in a car park, a good second hand one is approx. $180 from interstate The driver seat belt is sometimes slow to retract, found local ones for $150-$200 Can ring me anytime on 0401 one eight four zero six nine

Hey chasing a SILVER rear bumper for an r34 sedan, shoot us a PM Cheers

Sorry for the late update been away for work heaps and bugger all reception. All pics are in the links and once again open to offers on items and happy to assist with posting interstate

Still chasing this

Coupe of Sedan?

I track my car every now and I run a Defi link system. I have gauges for oil temp, water temp and boost. As scotty nm35 said by the time your oil pressure goes it will be too late anyways. The Defi's on the link unit like I have allows you to record and show your peaks as well as set at what temp/pressure it will flash a red light to warn you. I also have a PFC handset so anything else I can't see can see on the hand controller if needed after a heat but obviously not during. I haven't bothered running any more gauges yet but the advantage of the Defi link is that you can add more if needed, Similar to this below I bought mine 2nd hand and with all the senders cost around $500, new they are around double that I would guess but you pay for what you get.

Had and still have a similar problem with my car, car drives fine but not Traction, ABS and the lights stay on all the time which is annoying. I could never find a real answer. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/407575-tcsslip-light-on-with-pfc/

Want to buy helical R34 GTT diff to suit ABS, my car has viscous rear and don't want to spend heaps on a 1.5 or 2 way centre want a complete to direct bolt in PM me Cheers

Last few things for sale in thread below http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/437134-garage-sale-in-adelaide-sa/

Want to borrow an R34 GTT ABS and TCS Ecu thats located in the boot, mine appear to be having faults come up with the Power FC Hooked in so want to try another module and see if that clears. PM me Cheers

http://www.use.com/supersize.pl?set=717b0a4c2c753eca0eb0 Link for photos of the larger items are there

Any decent diffs out there for 34 gtt? Some parts still up for sale

If sale falls through I will take it

What cars it in?

I didn't want to have to remove the filter housing to install the gauge unless I really had to but that's dedication right there

Yeah the oil pressure is 1/8th NPT but the temp is M12 x1.25, Blitz make a similar product but as I said rather buy Australian if possible http://www.fqperformance.com/shop/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=20&products_id=876&osCsid=ezhimmjjeyco

I would be looking more to valve seat, valve itself and possibly the valve guide. A leaky valve stem seal would give you oil in the combustion chamber which you said you have and you should technically still have compression in the cylinder. If the valve head had dropped off you would have heard it rattling around inside your cylinder or even worse in the back of your turbocharger and if the valve was jammed wide open or the valve head missing the comp would either be zero regardless of a wet or dry test. I had an engine at work with 15psi in a comp test and it ended up been a torched valve face but this was on a large industrial gas engine running around 700degree exhaust temps so torched valves and recessed seats are pretty common hence why we change heads out every 20,000 hours whether they need it or not. Perhaps pull the rocker cover and see if any of the valve springs are excessively loose or if any of the valve heights are different as they should be relatively close to one another. That will either give you and indication of a recessed valve seat causing it not to seal 100% and if a valve is missing the head the valve spring will be sitting higher than the rest of them and the spring will be loose and very easy to turn. At the end of the day the head will be coming off regardless but if all looks good there you could be looking at a piston

I was thinking maybe a fuse/relay originally but for all 3 things to drop out at the same time it would be a bit of a coincidence, but as I don't know a hell of a lot about Nissan electrics they may all in fact run off one fuse/relay. That's why I thought something along the lines of an immoboliser or alarm in which it's purpose is to kill those 3 systems as well as ignition (no power to the microtech) in one go

Yeah I have a gtt and see link to photo of the sensors location on the oil filter housing with the adaptor in place, the hot engine bay made it hard to get in closer lol http://www.use.com/supersize.pl?set=3703df3839032c6a08eb

Doubt there is anything when installing the cam that could have caused any dramas with the fuel pump and microtech mainly, if the CAS wasn't plugged in it shouldn't fire but like I said that shouldn't really affect the other items. Is there's an immobiliser or alarm on the car? Like most alarms it will cut ignition/power until its dis armed inlcuding fuel pump, dash and even the ECU

I fitted some Defi gauges a little while back with the intention of fitting an oil cooler but never got around to doing so and felt if my temps (with light track work) never got too bad I wouldn't worry with the cooler. But as the factory Nissan temp sensor is M12 x1.25 thread and the defi sensor is 1/8NPT I could never fit the temp sender and effectively had a useless gauge. I spent ages trying to find an adapter through just about every gauge, fitting, performance site and store within Australia and could only come up with suppliers from the UK with shipping worth more than I could justify. I could find adapters that were M12 x 1.50 and M12 x 1.00 but not 1.25 as it's a very odd size. Finally I found a local supplier on ebay that sells them - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Metric-Male-M12x1-25-To-Female-1-8-NPT-Also-Use-For-Pfira03-Fitting-/151195760051?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2333f835b3 All I did was fit an o-ring around the M12 thread that goes into the factory oil temp sensor location to seal it up (thread sealant would do the same but I didn't have any) and thread tape around the Defi sensor. I was a bit worried as the sensor tip did not stick out a great deal from the end of the adapter and not getting a true reading but the adaptor looks to thead in just as far as the factory sender and after taking my car for a run it seemed to work near spot on. The temps warmed up relatively similar and after a good freeway run with 30degree ambient temps in Adelaide the oil temp was within 5 deg C to the coolant temp which is what I expected to see.

Z32 and manual surround sold other parts still for sale