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rb2534

SAU SA Club Member
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Everything posted by rb2534

  1. Forgot to ask for details on the 2way also Will this fit nissan r34 rear end? Giulian
  2. More details on car also..........consider any swaps? Giulian
  3. Thanks noely1 I got quoted over $2400 from wreckers in Adelaide (Box, Pedal, master and slave, cross member) but doing some shopping around as well I'm not in that big of a rush to do it I picked up: R33 Box 90,000ks old and very clean for $1200 with tailshaft, slave and fork and got a cross member with a Nismo mount for $100 Brand new R34 master for $115 R34 pedal with master pin in excellent condition for $150 (didnt want to muck around with an R33 pedal and I know these are hard to find) All brand new flywheel and clutch bolts from Nissan for around $40 Manual console trims are going for around $100 Dash and steering wheel arent that important to me at this stage unless one come up cheap but thats around $400 the pair. All I need now it clutch and flywheel which i have priced up around 1K but thats a factory weight brand new chromolly wheel and a good clutch to support the one I want. So I will fall well below the $2400 price quoted and thats with the dash, wheel and some other bits that those conversions kits didnt come with. Giulian
  4. I cannot rave about how much of a pleasure it was to deal with Priestley after buying this gearbox from him, Rang me back and answered any questions I had a was very open and honest. The box was at my door in Adelaide in 2 working days as promised, totally wrapped up, secured and sealed nicely and he kept me informed when there was a hiccup at the shipping depot and assured it would arrive on the same time. Will definately deal with him again! Giulian
  5. Don’t want to be a smart ass or cause shit but I have seen this happen first hand as I was a mobile diesel mech for almost 3 years.............are you simply out of fuel If not good luck with it Giulian
  6. Parts needed for my upcoming conversion: Looking for a R34 GTT Pedal box or R33 Clutch pedal and I will modify my existing one R33/R34 Clutch master – good condition or I will go brand new Clutch master to Clutch slave Line – R33 preferred as I am using R33 box Bell housing bolts – Heard you can use the auto ones. If not I'll buy new from Nissan Not sure if the auto box runs that shim plate between the box and engine but one of them to suit manual Also does anyone in SA have a good 2nd hand clutch (preferably A/M) I can borrow for a few hours. I will buy a 6 pack of something to lend me a good condition one.............long story Giulian
  7. Also will a R34 GTR Pedal box fit my R34 GTT 4 Door to do a manual conversion with?
  8. I have searched and found no definate answer on these 4 questions and as I'm doing my manual conversion soon I don't want to get half way through it and find something is not right. 1- Will the auto R34 gbox cross member work on a manual R33 or is it different? 2 - Can I use the R34 Auto starter motor on an r33 box for my manual conversion? 3 - That shim plate between the box and rear of the engine does the auto have one and once again will it fit on the manual box or are there any mods to do. 4 - Finding an R33 Pedal box at the moment is abit of a hassle so will an R34 GTR Pedal box fit my R34 GTT 4 Door to use for my manual conversion? Thanks heaps
  9. I have searched and found no definate answer on these 3 questions and as I'm doing my manual conversion soon I don't want to get half way through it and find something is not right. 1- Will the auto R34 gbox cross member work on a manual R33 or is it different? 2 - Can I use the R34 Auto starter motor on an r33 box for my manual conversion? 3 - That shim plate between the box and rear of the engine does the auto have one and once again will it fit on the manual box or are there any mods to do. Thanks heaps
  10. $100 plus delivery? Money in the bank when you say
  11. Where does this bolt to exactly? You don't need to run a half cage or anything else to make this fit? And will fit 4 door 34? Giulian
  12. Might be abit hard at the moment selling these kind of plates with all the heat on imports and mainly skylines. I don't think too many people will touch these......Myself included Good luck with the sale but just a thought Giulian
  13. If this was in Adelaide I would have snapped this up in a second Free Bump
  14. At the end of the day if there isn't enough grease which COULD be the problem your going to have to take the box out regardless to properly grease it Provided you don't find something else wrong with it Giulian
  15. Chasing a new clutch for my 34 which I will be converting to manual soon using 33 stuff, now how do people rate the xtreme clutches, either organic, HD or those sprung button centres? I am aiming for around 230rwkw and will be taking it to the track every now and then and well streeting it 95% of the time. The guy at Xtremes told me either go organic which will be great street use, would hold 230rwkw no worries but taking it to the track and clutch kicks will obviously shorten its life span......or go a puck style, still ok for the street and bulletproof on the track. Reason I am chasing one of these clutches is that I bought one for my rotor last year and I was going to return it and swap it for something to suit me. I priced an Exedy HD clutch and that was about $200 more than an extreme one but the guy said it might have a slightly higher clamping load I have also heard there are extremely harsh on drive lines So from peoples use of these.......Stay away from these or go buy one? Thanks Giulian
  16. All I need now is a manual conversion with a clutch and exhaust to suit, prefer non barrel Come on guys show me what you have...............Cash waiting! Giulian
  17. Upgrading the fuel pump on my skyline and I was going to use a GTR or buy an 040 one, but as I have an inline 910 pump left over from my track car thats brand new a mate suggested using that intank on the cradle and clamping it to the frame in place of the old one and saving some cash. Now as its not an 'intank' pump as such without the flat screened pick up is this possible? He said all you need to do is modify the bottom where that standard sock goes on the bottom of the original pump and thats it. Im abit weary about using an inline pump intank or am I worrying for no reason? For people who are unsure what I mean here's the difference between the pumps: http://www.boschfuelpumps.com/ Thanks
  18. Got some left over bits which im selling to get some more money for my 34. All parts are in Adelaide and will send for interstate buyers but will deliver for free in Adelaide. Pics available on request For sale: 5inch Autogauge by Autometer monster tacho plus Shift Light Item Condition: Excellent Price: $150 Contact Details: PM For sale: Autometer 2 5/8 Oil Pressure gauge plus sender Item Condition: One track meet old Price: $150 Contact Details: PM For sale: Cooling Pro Intercooler Core 450x300x76 thick. Has only done a dyno tune and 1 track meet Item Condition: Excellent Price: $150 Contact Details: PM For sale: Bosch inline 910 pump and mount bracket Item Condition: Excellent - also has barbs to fit hoses and will chuck in a Facet lift pump and small surge tank which worked for me fine. Done about 3 hours dyno work and one track meet, was going to use it in my 34 but fitting in a GTR pump instead. Price and price conditions: $180 Contact Details: PM
  19. If only these wheels were in Adelaide..........Free Bump Giulian
  20. Just collecting up the last bits I need for my car before I start modding it. I will be running Power FC + Handset, FMIC, 650cc Injectors, HKS 25/30 turbo, Exhaust and Fuel Pump. I have heard so many different opinions from people as to what boost controllers to run but I am trying to maintain a relatively standard looking bay (exception been the FMIC and filter which isn't a real big issue) and dont want to have any lines and valves running all over the place especially with some known Jap brands plastered all over them as the cops in Adelaide seem to be real pricks with these skyline at the moment. And yes a bleed screw would stick out but if it would be a lot easier to hide out of sight than a control unit mounted in the bay or a controller in the glove box or under the dash. I'm not even planning on having the hand controller in the car when driving around as I am aiming to keep the car looking mildly modified and having that stuff hanging out on display would only add fuel to the fire. My question is do I really need to run a fancy pants boost controller like a Blitz or even the Power FC units you can buy if my aim is to hit 220-230rwkw and leave the car as is. I don't intend on winding any more boost into it or start mucking around with it once the car is tuned as it is my daily. The cost of the actual unit isn't the issue but would a simple bleed screw be ample or will it cause issues like boost spiking or cause problems with the PFC? I am also running a HKS adjustable actuator on the turbo if that information helps. Also any feedback as to what set ups people have run successfully will be welcomed
  21. These for 34 NEO Rb25? And are they a direct fitment or does the rail need to be replaced or spaced up? Wanting to keep a relatively stock looking engine bay as i'm running low mount 25/30 Giulian
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