rb2534

Fitting a kit I bought and I'm wondering where the F do people find the room to fit the filter relocator on a 34 lol 33's seem to have a bit more room as the battery is in the boot, but as the 34's battery is in the front there isn't a great deal of room to put it. I thought about getting a sandwich plate but I was to use this kit as it has the thermostat, I have seen them with built in thermostats but has anyone has any problems or success with these set ups? I have a Trust kit and lines to suit a 33 but If I can get away with using a sandwich plate with inbuilt thermostat I will, unless I just use a sandwich set up and make up a cover like I've seen other people on here do

Price drop $290 frieghted

Ready to post

Fitting Defi gauges and chasing an adaptor for water temp that goes into the top radiator hose on a 34 NEO. I would even buy a complete hose that has an adaptor in it. Needs to have 1/8 NPT thread and 36mm from what I can tell Adelaide prefered and will pick up

Fitting Defi gauges and chasing an adaptor for water temp that goes into the top radiator hose on a 34 NEO. I would even buy a complete hose that has an adaptor in it. Adelaide prefered and will pick up

Location?

Cheers for that Paul but I figured out the hesitation, the plug on my BOV was leaking. As Im running a different turbo and not return into the turbo intake a mate did the same to his plugging the BOV outlet and running different intake. What happened is I started to remove the valley cover to access the coil packs, noticed the clamp holding my plug it was on abit loose and found the plug missing. It was half way in the piping that went to atmosphere so it must have blown out when driving it back from getting some work done. I fixed it up temporarily as I need to get a new plug and took it for a run around the block on light throttle and no hesitation or anything at all, the idle is also more even and all round better. I fitted the PFC again (without touching coil packs and after doing another fault code check code 55 meaning everything is ok came up) did the self tune and lights are still there. I have a different coil pack loom and the original coil packs but until something is indicating with the factory ECU its not right I'm going to wait till its on the dyno and see what my tuner says. As I said car is fitted splitfires and .8s and since this leak was fixed I've had no more hesitation running stock ECU and even the turbo flutter on gear changes sounds alot louder. As for backfires reported in other links you put up it has had a few little pops out the exhaust on decel and been up in the revs. About half way down the page on the following link theres something about the TCS and SLIP light, but once again one would think this would affect both ecus not just the PFC http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/400337-r34-gtt-dreaded-error-code-21-coilpacks/page__hl__coilpack__fromsearch__1 Once again I more than appreciate all the help and I will update once it goes to dyno to see if anything changes, if its still giving issues ill have to look at another ECU or god knows lol

As I'm running smaller gapped plugs with near no boost this could be causing a miss maybe? Almost everyone I spoke to said run smaller gaps after about 1 bar, before that don't bother leave them at 1.1s Im running .8s

Did the fault code check and fault code 55 came up, Almost every forum says the two lights say coil packs or AFM, it has split fires installed and as I said the lights never come up on factory ECU, one would think the lights would come up on both ecus if there was a legit problem with the coils. I'm going to remove the coil pack cover, check the connections again and I have a spare loom so i might bring that with me and go from there

Yeah as I mentioned the check engine light did light up and go out when i switched the boost controller on and off so at least that's cleared up. And if the boost display settings are always showing then that's fine. I had this ECU hooked up in my car when I first bought it a little while ago and no lights, its just been sitting the cupboard waiting to go in right before tune, The only thing I have done in the mean time is hard wire and fit new in tank fuel pump, fit splitfires, .8mm plugs, boost controller, FMIC and gauges. I don't remember disconnecting anything other than the regular plugs and connectors to remove the dash etc. With the PFC in I have only done about 1km of driving and not even gone over 60kmph so maybe the active LSD needs to hit speed or spin the wheel to work itself out or do some calibration thing. When I did hook it up I removed the AFM to do some other work and these 2 lights came up with is usual with stuffed coil packs or AFM fault. But I pulled over, turned the car off, pulled the AFM pug out, cleaned it and put it back in and restarted, drove then the lights went out. And the voltages are between 1100-1200mv on the handset, as I said I have a Z32 which i was going to fit and I;m still not convinced this is at fault. As I haven't had it tuned I'm not driving it above 2500-3000rpm, it does have slight hesitation once it starts coming on boost but I've put that down to the Profec B boost controller kicking in as I have it set on stuff all boost until I get it on a dyno and can set it up safely. I also set an alarm on the Profec abit above the boost target and it reaches that so the possibility for a vacuum or boost leak causing a miss of hesitation when loading up should be eliminated. And once again it does it with the stock ECU and it free revs no worries, does not miss at idle and prior to fitting the turbo it went fine. I'll have to put up a post to borrow someones 34 and check this out but this is most likely been dynoed early next week so i'll just wait til then and see how it goes on the dyno. As for anything else wierd on the car noting else sticks out, it idles, drives and does everything the normal ECU does so you could be right about the active LSD. Did a fault code test on the factory ECU obviously , fault code 55 came up - No malfunction Appreciate the help but until I get the dyno done there not much more I can do. I will update it once its done and see if is resolves itself.

Did self tune and lights still on, removed PFC and plugged in factory ECU and everything fine and no lights so I think even changing AFM won't make a difference. Still can't work out how I have a boost controller set up display that I can muck around and mod in the settings menu when I clearly have it turned off in the menu.

haha I will keep an eye on your post from time to time see what else can tempt me, dont forget to sms me your banking details also

Awesome trader and all top quality gear!

Ive just noticed in settings i can set boost on the 4 steps but im not running a controller and i have the function switched off in the menu settings are 1 .70 48 255 2 .80 54 255 3 .90 60 255 4 1.00 66 255 dontknow how this is but i did a data init, started all over and ther TCS/SLIP and Engine light came on, turned the boost controller function off and engine light went out but TCS and SLIP are still on. currently letting it do its self tune but i doubt that will change anything

boost if off - turned it on and the engine light came on, i turned it off and engine light turned off air flow warning is on injector warning is off (that made no difference) knock warning is on 02 F/B control is off This unit is second hand and has a map in there, i was thinking of doing a data init to start over and do the self tune but ive had this in my car before and these lights never came on. The only difference between now and last time is ive installed profec b but and defi gauges and removed the factory 3 gauges. afm has been pulled off a few times to do intercooler and other work but as i said with stock ecu no lights might be worth trying a date init and starting over

I took a pic also but the only things high lighted in bold are the dots next to the letters below, the black cirle only means the relays or switches are workign dont they? IGN ECC A/C F/P O2H ACR Uploaded with ImageShack.us Its a R34 GTT 4 door turbo, not sure what you mean about the Active LSD but I did read somewhere on a UK forum about traction control offline?? I couldnt find anything solid on it other than that statement though I also held the up button on the handset to do that debug mode and all that came up were the letter "NT"

Chasing the stereo surround that goes around the din and below the AC controls AND The lower dash section between the gear surround and the top of the dash where the gauge cluster is Must be good condition and need both sent to Adelaide 5067 please

Started again with PFC in - lights on Pulled AFM plug off, check and put back on - lights on Removed PFC and put standard ECU back in, no lights Put PFC back in and lights still on, sometimes they quickly turn off before they come in other times they stay on. really can't work this out as it has never done this before when I've had this PFC in. The only other thing have changed is going from a K&N pod to a Apexi Power Intake.I also picked both these 2 options on the hand controller and no difference and I'm sure it saved my selection. Really out of ideas unless there is something in the PFC control unit that needs to be looked at with a laptop?

Just out of curiosity if it does eliminate it there may be a fault wth the PFC? I know ive had this PFC in before and these never came up. Also when I fitted the AFM this happen even on stock ECU so thats why I thought it was the connector this time but it appears to be all good. I will refit it and see but I do have a brand new Z32 AFM here which I may just end up fitting if this continues Cheers

Also running standard injectors, took it for another light footed lap after checking it all over again. AFM around 1220mv Timing peak hit 45 but was around the 15 on idle The profec B is set to very low boost, I have never touched these and I am waiting to get this set up on the dyno so I have set it only for a few pound and it does have a hesitiation at around 3000rpm above if you very slowly drive it to those revs once again on light throttle. I put this down the fact that its the boost controller kicking in and the engine not getting much boost because the gauge will show only small amount of boost and the usual turbo flutter happens unless i short change it below this. On idle the Profec and boost gauge show a vacum between -400 to -600 It also idles rather high around 1100 even when warm and take abit to settle down to around 900-950, for example pulling up at lights it will hold revs then slowly go back to idle. A mate warned me about this and this has only happened since elimintating the BOV and running different turbo, after a big rev it will stall and most times go back to idle by itself but somtimes it will stall. Like all good mods i've learnt to mod my driving to suit lol I know these issues will need to be sorted out with a tune which I am waiting for and the car does not need to be driven but I want to bring it to the dyno without any lights on or issues. Once again thanks for any help

the other screw in the cup mount is there just didnt have it in when I tool the picture because I put the gauge back into the cup

By spin_12a at 2012-08-21 By spin_12a at 2012-08-21

Black faced 52mm Blitz boost gauge with cup and holder, bought this, fitted but have now gone 3 gauge defi set up. This gauge and the electronic defi were reading the same as each other so it works. I had this fitted to a 34 GTT on the instrument surround infront of the fuel gauge and it had a small cut out to run the boost line and cable for the lighting and obviously the screw holes to mount it. This will come with the gauge as I had 2 and wanted to keep one uncut incase I ever put the car back to stock. $75 posted anywhere in Australia

I seacrched and found no definitive answer other than faulty coil packs of dicky AFM Installed my power FC on my 34 GTT today in order to get ready for tune, I let the PFC by the 30min idle and so on. Mods are: Power FC Turbo back Splitfires .8 plugs FMIC Apexi power Intake Profec B Walbro pump (hard wired) Standard AFM As soon as I started the car on the PFC the TCS and slip Light came on and stayed on, after the 30 minute idle self tune and a very slow run around the block all below 3000rpm as its untuned the lights wont go off. While driving the highest the knock ever got was 9 and everything else looked pretty good. On Idle the AFM was between 1140-1150mv On a rev then after settling down a few puffs of black smoke came out of the exhaust and you can definitely smell fuel when idling but theres no puff of black smoke on idle. With the factory ECU this wasnt happening, I have had the PFC running both on Standard R34 Intake and Power intake selections on the hand controller but still no difference. Coil packs are splitfires and once again this issue was never present on the standard ECU, I only put in the PFC because its going for wheel allign tomorrow about 2 mins from my house and I wanted to put a rev limit on it so if they do need to take it for a run they really can't do much. I will be making them aware of this anyways its just a back up. Also the car will be sitting till dyno so might as well get it all done now. I also had the Apexi Air Intake fitted to the stock ECU to check everything and no light, i have unplugged and checked the pins on the AFM connector and all good. Anyone seen this before?

Therbarton