QLDR31

Update: Done: -Running on 6 cylinders, one injector was gummed up. I made an injector tapper, bit of Teflon on the end of a metal rod. That fixed the injector. Need to replace one injector plug, the fastener is broken. -Coolant bleed -Fixed 4WD warning light, bleed 4wd system -Fixed electrical problems: alarm, brake lights, various broken plugs -Got all the parts ready to connect head drain. Head drain is fitted with a blocker atm Todo: -Fuel pump dead, Been cleaning out the tank, had a lot of tobacco looking stuff, think its OEM foam. Got a Walbro 460 to put in. Probably going to add a relay to give the pump a solid 13volts. Replacing all the fuel hoses, in tank etc. -Front drive shafts still not back on. Waiting on parts. Would like to buy some new ones, but probably going to patch these up for now -Replacing gas struts on back door. Waiting to be returned -Headlights need a polish/repair -Going to touch up the paint a little. -Clean up the interior -Connect up heater plumbing -Cosmetic stuff, powder coat replace rusty parts, replace rusty bolts, wiper blades, silicon missing rubber -A million other things

I got it running during the week. Was the fuel ins and outs swapped again. They got swapped about four times on the build. Setup as per R34 photo above. Seems very quiet the fuel pump is louder. Boys at work thought the exhaust output looked good. Think its running on about five cylinders. So going to unplug injectors and see which cylinder is bad. Then workout if its gummed up injector or coil/spark plug etc. I'm expecting gummed up injector. Haven't done timing or anything. Haven't bleed coolant yet as well. I'm a bit worried i'm going to take a month or so to get it back on the road. So makes it hard to run it in. So far I haven't revved it over 1500rpm. Idles around 1000. Lost my front shaft to hub fasteners. The nut, washer and split pin etc. I should of left them on the shafts. Anyone got any spares?

This photo is of an R34 GTT, not my car. Fuel directions look right?

Fuel ins and outs were swapped, so swapped them back. Topped up coolant. No more leaks from coolant today. I will bleed it once the engine gets running. Battery was replaced. This new battery leaked acid so got another replacement today. After work with a bunch of guys from work observing we manged to get the engine running. I think it seemed to run pretty well maybe not all cylinders. A little smoke started to come off the exhaust manifold. The we shut it down. Unfortunately we couldn't get the engine to run again. I had a hole in transmission hoses, this has been fixed. Alternator belt was loose today. Had the wrong belt on alternator etc, put the middle sized belt on. Going to fix some dodgie wiring, tomorrow (The grey 6 pin plug, think its for auto transmission). The plug from the AFM doesn't catch. I might try another AFM, see if its the plug or the AFM. The plug looks OK. Someone told me to remove the CAS and spin it by hand, with ignition on and see if injectors pulse. I assume the CAS normally spins anti-clockwise. I'm going to bring a stethoscope and listen to each injector. Might also try tapping some fuel injectors to free up blocked ones. Whats the best way to run an engine in? Someone said idle it for 24hrs. I am not sure about that. Hopefully success will come for a change.

Yeah same engine going back in. The engine was previously over heating, pitted block. But been off the road about five years now.

Maybe I should do compression test. Buying a new battery and coolant today.

Got most of it together now. I tried to fill the coolant, but leaked out the back of the engine. I removed the heater hoses, for now and bypassed the heater core. Found the small elbow behind the engine had loose clamps. Hopefully that will be the leak fixed. I find out today. I had a crack at turning it over yesterday with my portable fuel system. Battery was dead, but used jump starter. Seemed to turn over ok, but seemed like no spark or fuel? AFM plug doesn't click or fasten itself. But seems to be on ok. Not sure if alternator belt too tight. Ways to check oil pressure? Any tips?

Yeah I took a three day holiday, and worked on car on hoist. Working over the weekend on it as well. I took the auto box out. Tailshaft off, Pipe at the back off, Gear selector out of the way, Exhaust off (not sure if required). Had a transmission jack so made it pretty nice (Pro tip someone said its good to strap the gearbox to the jack). I found that the one piece sandwich plate was the correct one. RWD auto sandwich plates don't have cut outs for AWD sump etc. Unfortunately I put the top of two piece sandwich plate on it before I compared or thought about it. So I cut the bottom off my original one and used that. I learnt the hard way a couple times not to bolt the torque converter until the gearbox is bolted to engine properly. While exhaust was off, I dropped the fuel tank, replaced 25YO fuel lines. Drained the tank had like 20L, thought I pumped it out previously. Treated rust above tank and exhaust. Sprayed black stone guard. Tow hook, rear exhaust hanger and rear heat shield are being powder coated black. Remaining jobs: -Fit A/C, Power steering pump, connect starter motor, Drain some oil (put too much in), -Hook up heater hose. It has a oil head drain so I can't use factory hard pipes. Going to try silicon hoses from kit I got. with alloy joiners, clamps and silicon hose to link them. Putting some heat shielding wrap on as well. -Replace fuel filter and front fuel hoses. Going to use a cheap filter run it for a bit then replace with a Nissan one. When I was draining fuel tank I used a paint filter and caught a lot of what looked like tobacco. -Fit new belts. -Fit radiator and pipes, fan and coolant. Check for leaks. -Got to workout how to plumb transmission cooler and radiator to gearbox and do that. -Find airbox and AFM and a bunch of clamps. and fit them. Add pipe from intercooler and turbo to airbox etc. -Fix exhaust. Down the track I will replace it with a Jap one, once mrs ok with that. -Fix some wiring VVT plug is broken so I don't know which pin goes where. Might have to drive up (three hour round trip) and see my R34 RB25DE NEO for pin colours. I probably have more parts I need anyway. -Grey six pin plug hanging off intake. Had three broken wires. Someone replaced them with bullet connectors. I don't know what connects to what. I assume that plug is something for auto box. It seems to have two black wires, two red wires and two white wires. Closer examination required. Other connector has different colours. -Fit front CVs. Find CV joint Nuts and split pins and washers etc. No idea why I separated them from CVs. A boot needs replacing also. -Turn engine over with no fuel. Check for bad noises. -Going to run engine with portable fuel system to check before running from fuel system.

Maybe I used the wrong sandwich plate as well. Used one piece instead of two piece.

Thanks guys. Are you meant to tighten the converter bolts through the starter motor hole? Think my plate between gearbox and engine is one piece. Im heading up there tomorrow.

Thanks guys. Hopefully nothing is fooked up. The converter is meant to be bolted onto auto flywheel first hey? Not later. I like the hoist idea, I can do that at work. The tail shaft bolts are tight as fook and auto box is as greasy as fook. I guess ill need to put some wood between the sump and cross member to keep engine in position? Doesn't have any manual stuff. Same engine and gearbox. That were original. If the gearbox is busted i'll be looking for manual conversion.

The engine has been in for months now. Unfortunately something is wrong, bell housing bolts are in but there is a gap less than 10mm between bell housing and engine. The engine can't be turned in neutral, so something fowling. Note its an AWD auto and everything is original parts. I was thinking of putting longer bolts in bell housing that way engine and gear box can stay lined up, lever a gap between them and turn the engine until it lines up. Any tips/advice would be helpful. I'm planing on towing it to work so hopefully I can get it running, a few mechanics there to help me.

The engine and car are now in the same garage. I went to install the engine. It's been sitting in the same spot for a couple weeks. Found an oil leak. Luckily it was just the drain plug. I put the flex plate back on (93-103Nm). I can't find the torque spec for the four torque converter mounting bolts. They are smaller bolts then flex plate so probably less torque. Hopefully New years day i'll get the engine in. I also found a bunch of surface rust around where radiator goes so might tidy that up before putting the radiator in.

So I have added a head drain. I was wondering what others have done to keep the heater hoses. I would like to retain the heater hose hard pipes possibly with some mods. This is on a RB25DET NEO. Just looking for a neat outcome. Also i'm not sure how much room I have with the engine out Cheers guys

I cut up some cable tie saddles to secure the coil wiring loom (the threads were already tapped to 5mm). The build is nearly done just need to figure out a few more hoses like the IAC valve and bolt the turbo on. Anyone got a pic of the IAC valve? I'm pretty sure I know how it plumbs just not certain (closest pipe to coils to the red bung in pic, middle pipe to throttle body, last pipe to coolant stuff below via long hose).