QLDR31

Just noticed this set on eBay: $466.44 Might be worth giving it a try. seller is winner_racing_spares What do people think? Looks pretty good to me. Vehicle Fits NISSAN SKYLINE GT-T ER34 RB25DET 1999-2002 Specifications Default Color: BLACK We have 13 color options, If you don't leave note, We will ship hose color the first picture shows.Thanks! · Smooth wipe down finish · Working temperature: -60 ~ 260 degrees · Working Pressure: 0.3 to 0.9Mpa · Bursting Pressure: 2Mpa · Thickness: 2mm to 5mm · Size tolerance: +/-0.5mm · Resistance to UV, water, ozone and oxygen Include: 29PIECES, radiator hose ,heater hoses,vacuum hoses,and other ancillary hoses. Product Information Welcome to Winner_Racing_Spares 's store. We supply PREMIUM QUALITY all aluminum radiator and silicone hose kit, oil cooler, intercooler and kit for racing auto and motocross auto bike. We promise that all our products are made of the best materials and advanced manufacture technique. All our products are 100% fully tested to ensure top quality. All manufactured in a brand new state of the art facility with the same manufacturing process that OEM companies use. We are manufacturer , all shop order, bulk order ,wholesale is welcome. We also make-to-order. Please feel free to ask

Apparently the NEO has no washer in the inlet cam. On the weekend I got the timing belt on. Did another rookie error had my torque wrench set to fp instead of nm. Over torqued the tensioner. So I tossed my new stud and nut and reused my old ones. I bought a stud install/remove kit. The remove part is too long to remove the tensioner studs but the install part works well. I loctited the smaller stud. My engine didn't have original the cam cover bolts so I have ordered them (another 3-4 week wait). Apparently the NEO bolts are different to everything else. But I have plenty to go on with.

Anyone pulled the inlet cam gear assembly apart? I just wanted to check I got all the parts. I can see a spring. The o-ring and hex head plug. Think I might be missing a washer. The diagram looks different. I think my diagram might be for an R33. Just bolt her on? I was a bit unsure putting on the camshaft front seals. I think if there is a next time i'll buy a seal install and remove kit. Camshafts are both torqued down now. Anyone made up an OEM style engine stand? I'm currently using a generic engine stand bolted to the gearbox threads.

Finally got the head bolted on. I've had a few health setbacks slowing me down. I came into a few issues. On one end the head alignment dowel pin was holding the head up. i put a little bit of assembly lube on both sides. Then it went together. I checked the torque settings on the camshaft bolts. One of the baffle nuts was spinning and wouldn't come off so had to cover the engine up and grind it off. Now I need to find a stud to replace it. Ground my 1/2" deep socket so I could use it to torque the ARP head bolts without taking the camshafts out. Torqued up to 80fp. Cam covers are on temporarily at the moment with old seals. I also put the spark plugs in to stop things falling in. I do keep it covered when i'm not working on it.

Thanks for the info and pics. I guess some brands and manufacturers might be closer to fitting then others. Those blue hoses look of good quality. Have you got gold anodized parts or is that lighting. Looks good. You would think there would be someone out there that made a full coolant silicon set for the NEO. I did find one on eBay a couple years back. I think was about $350 in China. I think it was like 13 pieces. It came in a bunch of different colours. At the time I didn't want to be a guinea pig and try it. I can't find it anymore.

From my experience I found that the two radiator hoses for R33 and R34 are similar. For your case id try R34 hoses. When I had the R33 ebay hose on, the hose was kinked. I assume the radiator ins and outs would be the same for R33 and R34. I'm not sure about the differences R34 RB20DE NEO, RB25DE NEO and RB25DET NEO. I do have an RB25DE NEO in a R31 Sedan. If the seller says R33 and R34 find another seller. Id recommend buying them from JustJap or other sellers that list them separately for R33 or R34. I haven't purchased any complete silicon kits for the R34/S2 stagea. I would like to get one soon. Most say kits are for R33 and R34. I think they are for R33 with some hoses common between R33 and R34.

Oil pump is on with new seal. The seal went on easy with a little Vaseline. Rear seal is on. I made a rookie error fitting the baffles under the block. I read the rb26dett torque settings they are 16-21Nm. But they must have M8 bolts. I think I over torqued my M6 bolts to less then 16. but replaced them anyway. Next up is water pump and sump. then head. One of the mechanics at work said to crank it without the cam covers to check the cam oil squirters are all working. What you guys think?

I got my R31 TI (with RB25DE NEO) going with it today. I had a fuel leak from one of the Chinese brass bulkheads. I also blew a fuse on my fuel cell. I wasn't what fuse to run initially I used 7.5 amp, now its 10 amp. But got it going and managed to relocate the car with the fuel cell bolts to the guard position . GreenyFuelcell.MP4

Some good ideas. I will be using it on my R31's. It can bolt onto where the drivers front guard normally is. It could also bolt into the boot. I am planning on having a tap on the fuel output and return. That way I can turn it off for transport. Going to have a power switch, fuse, LED, power socket and relay. I was thinking of also using EFI push on fuel fittings.

The fuel cell so far.

Hey guys, I was thinking of building a portable fuel cell for running some hard parked cars. Getting a plastic 5L fuel container. Glue it onto some aluminium checker plate. Then add a external fuel pump, fuel filter and pressure gauge. A breather on top. Power fuse, switch and input socket. Maybe have 8AN fittings for in an outs. Im looking for 8mm barb fittings that can be added to the tank. Using it in the engine bay. Anyone done anything similar or got ideas?

Yeah got ARP head studs. But gong OEM head gasket just because I already have it. I was thinking of getting new bolts with spring washers etc for oil pump, water pump, rear crank seal. Maybe something for sump as well. The old spring washers don't look too springy.

Yep I got a new seal (ordered it on Sunday, got it today). The one that just got damaged was new also. So the seal was flush with the outside of the oil pump. There was a couple mm gap behind the seal. I probably damaged the seal putting it onto the pump. Whats a good way to put on the seal? Vasoline? I also bought a new main pulley bolt, they were only $9.

I finally got my pistons in today.The engine shop put the rings on. Because I wasn't sure how loose/tight they are meant to be. The pistons got bead blasted and that made the ring grooves a bit tighter. I did run around the grooves with old rings but still I wasn't sure. I moved the ring gaps to the Nissan spec. I tightened the ARP rod cap bolts to 50fp. Piston 6 is the new piston I got from Japan. So then I ran into my next hurtle: When putting on the oil pump it looked like the inner part of the seal was poking out. Took it back then the metal part inside the seal came out. I can't get it back in. I think i'll need to get a new seal.

Ring gaps from R34 manual (I hope):

Sorry for the late response. I ended up getting another stock piston through Kudos Motorsport. Took 6-7 weeks. Then I slightly damaged it trying to get the gudgeon pin in (scored it a little). So I took all pistons and rods to my engineer. The engineer said the piston looks savable. Five pistons have rods attached. My engineer is putting the rings on as well as i'm not sure how free the rings are ment to be. They got me to check the ring gaps. From a Japanese manual I found ring gaps for RB25DET NEO should be RING1: 0.24-0.43mm, RING2 0.42-0.66mm, OIL RING: 0.2-0.69mm. My ring 1 were 0.45 to 0.5mm, and ring 2: 0.65mm. I didn't check the oil rings. My feeler guage went up in increments of 0.05mm. So some rings would be slightly over spec. I measured all ring gaps in cylinder 1. Thanks I need some luck. I wouldn't recommend first time engine building for someone who doesn't have someone to guide them. Youtube might have some ok videos but they don't cover everything.

For the brains trust: So if the exhaust had mufflers and the bov was hooked up would he still have the same issues? I thought if you were adding a cat back or turbo back aftermarket back exhaust things would run alright with a bit more power. I still have the boost restrictor maybe that would help things? I drove an old R31 skyline for a lot of years with a drony 3" exhaust. Adding an extra muffler was the best thing I ever did. But i'm old. Invest in ear muffs and save up for defects

As title states i'm looking for a RB25DET NEO OEM piston in good condition. Cheers Brendan

So I will go OEM head gasket as using standard pistons and turbo. I was having problems fitting rings. I Visited my engine builder. He said the bead blaster cleaning has put an edge on the ring grooves. So I have been running old rings around the groove. I should be able to get the rings in now. Fixing the ring groove I found one of the pistons is damaged. Probably from when I was putting on the gudgeon pins. Anyone got a spare Rb25DET NEO piston?

Experimentation with the main bearings: The 0.025mm oversized bearings were a bit too tight with plastic gauge. So I got a standard sized bearings. Tried half 0.025mm oversized and the other half standard bearings. Thought that was still a bit tight in some areas. So eventually went for all standard size main bearings. So if my eBay supplier gave me the right bearings to start with. I wouldn't of ended up with three sets of main bearings. The second two sets were bought from a performance wholesaler at a better price with parts available off the shelf. Working out head gasket requirements: Can anyone guide me with top of piston clearance to top of block? Whats the minimum clearance? I can't see this in the R33 engine service manual I have. I was planing on using a Nissan head gasket. Just because I got one in my engine gasket kit. If I don't have enough clearance I may need a Cometic or similar gasket. Or maybe I should just get one anyway? Cleaning up some spots?? in the bores: The bores have been honed by the engine shop. After cleaning I noticed some spots in the bores. I thought maybe give them a rub with scotchbrite? Missing head dowel pins so ordered a pair of them and a set of Gates belts (already got a Gates Racing timing belt).

Using a plastic gauge on all seven main journals. And tightening the main ARP studs down to 60fp in 3 equal steps (ARP recommendation). I only cleaned the assembly lube off the top of the crank journals not both sides not sure if that would affect the result. I got a reading of around 0.076mm. Nissan spec is around 0.02mm to 0.047mm depending on crank grades. So 7M2394HX-STD bearings I currently have gives me 0.025mm extra clearance (Even though I ordered the standard ones). I will be checking part numbers before I put them in, in the future. So I think I need 0.025mm oversized bearings. Hopefully giving me around 0.026mm oil clearance in the mains.

Seems most of the RB engines have the same main bearings except the RB26. One thing I noticed though is main bearings are ACL race series 7M2394HX-STD. The X signifies 0.025mm extra clearance. Not sure if I needed this. I did have the engineers check the crank and it met standard specs. My rod bearings are standard ACL race series 6B2960H-STD.

I had a scare the other day looked at the big end bearing box after I fitted them and it says RB30. Hopefully they are all the same. I better check that also. Tonight i'm going to go through the manual check i'm not missing anything. I visually checked the piston rings. Pushed them into the bore with the piston. Hopefully tomorrow i'll get the correct rings and check them with a feeler gauge. Yeah it's still got stock pistons. I'm not chasing big power. I might just put an exhaust on it. I didn't want to throw too much money at it. As there is a chance it might all blow up, being my first engine build. I might learn not to do this

Looks like I might of put the 1st and 2nd rings around the wrong way. 1st is middle and 2nd is top. Nah that didn't work either.

The first four pins were nastie to get started. My 5th and 6th pins went in relatively easy. I can see why some people keep the pin partially in the piston. Now i've run into my next problem. The NPR 2nd ring doesn't fit right. The oil rings and top rings look alright. I saw on one of the DriftSquids RB30 budget build Youtube videos that Nissan rings are needed. I better get ordering. I wonder if anyone in Brisbane stocks them?