QLDR31

I made this to separate the rod caps: Crank torqued up: Having difficulties getting the gudgeon pin into stock pistons, Anyone got any tips?

Torque Settings? ARP instructions for main studs says 60fp for an RB26. ARP instructions for head studs says 80fp for a generic 7/16inch diameter. I've seen a few threads about ARP head Torques of 72fp (just under 100nm and others around 100nm). I'm thinking of going 72fp for the head and 60fp for the main. Anyone got any recommendations? Cheers

Yeah I tried that a bit. Loosened one a bit. Maybe if I kept at it. I'm thinking of making a splitter tool made out of a bit of pipe chopped in half. With bolts to separate it.

Hopefully I'll get this motor together over the Christmas break. I ran into one minor problem today. Getting the cap off the conrod. I've taken the bolts out but caps dont want to come loose. I don't really want to purchase a conrod cap splitter. Anyone got any tips?

I know its a dumb question. Just wondering if grease can/should be pumped into the pump? There are no grease nipples but there are two holes. What are those holes for?

Engine/Car: RB25DET NEO S2 Stagea Type of failure: Overheated Factors influencing the failure: Pitted block, piston 6 was clean eg had coolant on top, no coolant in oil State of tune of the engine: stock Suspension and tyres: stock with R34 GTT rims Oil used and service interval: approx 5000km, 5W40 Synthetic of whats on special General comments: The head was bent, this may of happened after overheating. Mechanic said the head gasket had been patched up by previous owner. Lasted me around 160K. Nearly got it back on the road. 😀

That sucks I just bought one

I got the head back from the machine shop. Apparently the block and crank need to be final cleaned. The guy at the machine shop said best to wash with hot sopy water. Scrub bores with a large pipe cleaner. and scrub the galleries as well. Rinse off then blow dry. Wipe the bores with a clean rag and repeat until no grim is found. Any one done a final clean on their block and crank? I'm guessing i'm going to need to remove all the welsh plugs. I'm not really keen to do this. I can get the machine shop to do the final cleaning if needed. I bought some multi point sockets for the ARP stud and nuts. I bought 10mm, 13mm and 16mm. These metric sizes ok or should they be imperial? The head is wrapped in plastic. Apparently I just need to give it a good blow out before assembly.

I nearly have all the parts now. Maxspeeding rods (around 125grams lighter each than originals). ARP head and main studs. Plazmaman billet oil pump and crank collar. ACL race series bearings. NPR rings. Ross head oil drain. OEM Thermostat. Just need timing belt and tensioners, injector seals, belts. Maybe replace some hoses. Thinking about getting billet half moons as lost originals. Thinking of reusing the OEM water pump as was replaced recently. Apparently my head was a bit bent. So all up it's going to cost $1400 to sort the head. Ready to drop on. Yesterday I setup for a Ross head drain.

Cheers Duncan. The two camshaft seals have different part numbers to the two crankshaft seals. The smaller crankshaft seal does look similar but I don't think its the same. I haven't taken them out of the bag yet. The sump plug seal is in the bag to the right. But yeah i'll work it out. One workshop pulled my head apart and cleaned it. I found this workshop unreasonable priced. I'm not game to reassemble the head myself. So i'm getting my machine shop to do this. They are going to check that it doesn't need any machining. Then assemble it.

I'm sure they're fine for normal road use. Not sure what the recommended retail price. Don't need good tyres got AWD But good to know you guys are safety conscious.

Yes I believe they are the same shape.

I've been working out which parts of the gasket kit are for what. Most parts are easy to identify. If someone could guide me on these it would be great. I think D is the temp sensor. B is about the same size, but D is thicker. Not sure on the other seals and eye bolt gaskets. On the following picture we have valve stems, crankshaft and camshaft seals. Is there a way of telling the valve stems apart? The big seal is obviously for the crank. I think the seal with the valve stems is also for the crank. I'm also thinking the two seals with the large crank seal are for the camshafts.

I ordered a NPR piston ring set, ACL race series bearings and Maxspeeding rods. I have received the ARP head and main studs.

For those who use stock brake pads Repco has a clearance on ProSelect Brake Pad Set - DB1696PS. Which are $16 for the front brake pads. They probably fit other Nissans also. I bought a set and compared them with some old worn out pads I have and they look the same shape. I just bought another set as backups.

Sound like good suggestions. I'll look into all of them. I might get an ECU at a later date.

Hey guys, I finally have some time and cash to do a rebuild. I haven't done a rebuild before so any advice would be appreciated. I'm doing a rebuild because my engine was overheating. I had a coolant leak between cylinders 5 and 6. When the head came off pistons 6 looked clean because of the coolant going on it. There wasn't any coolant in the oil. The car had around 240K on the clock, I did about 160K of that. Apparently some time previously someone had patched the head gasket. So the patch lasted pretty well. The car has been off the road now for over 2 years. The car is fairly stock only mods are R32 GTR center cluster and R34 GTT rims. The auto gearbox has been replaced with a second hand one that was tricked up. I got a couple of quotes to fix the engine. One was $10k for a forged etc engine (id have to fit it myself). Another quote was $6k for a bodgie repair job not touching the bottom end. I have always wanted to rebuild an engine so I decided to bite the bullet and do one myself. I'm not looking at doing a super build. Just a pretty stockish one. Thinking of adding a turbo back exhaust after the rebuild. I also have some KYB shocks to go in. The head was dismantled and cleaned by one workshop. Still in pieces. Apparently it is good to get reassembled. They also said the turbo looks in good nick. I am planing on reusing the pistons. New rings?, ACL Racing bearings, ARP main and head bolts, Full Nissan gasket set. One of my mechanic friends recommended replacing the rods with Maxspeeding rods. He used them on a SR20 and said they are good quality. Very similar or the same as Eagle rods. So recently I dismantled the block. Took the block, crank and pistons to Engine Engineering at Rocklea QLD. They have acid cleaned the block, honed it and decked it. They are currently checking the pistons and cleaning them. X-raying the crank and linishing it. Today I painted the block with 3M 300deg c Engine Enamel Ford Light Blue. I think it looks pretty rad. Let the rebuild begin. Brendan

Thanks Not too long ago I used to think every gasket, including head gasket had some on it. So none on thermostat? I spose those half moons on the cam cover need some?

Hey Guys, So i'm finally getting around to rebuilding my AWD RB25DET NEO. I haven't rebuilt an engine before. I have bought a genuine Nissan RB25DET NEO complete engine gasket repair kit (part number: 10101AA525). So I have worked out the sump and water pump need a fluid gasket. Kit instructions say sump needs a 4mm bead of gasket, while other areas require a 2.5mm bead. Just wondering what other areas need fluid gasket? Thanks in advance Brendan

Thanks, It had pitting on the block. I still haven't fixed it.

Nice car. I was looking to get the engine rebuilt. But I got a family friend looking into it.

I considered that. Anyone know if AWD and RWD blocks are interchangeable? Id guess not. I found a place that will rebuild the long engine for $4.5k. Which would come with a warranty. Id have to get my hands dirty removing it and installing it. I'm thinking of going down that path.

So I took it to a local place to get fixed. It turned out it was the head gasket. The head itself and the turbo checked out ok. Unfortunately the block is also pitted badly. The previous owner patched it up which lasted 160K. A new head gasket and the work to dismantle it and put it back together was going to cost $2K. I thought that was ok. Now with the extra work of fixing the block they want $6K. So this is re-using original components. Not a rebuild. Apparently the block can be machined with the rotating assembly fitted. I think $6k is a bit rich. It is an AWD, What you guys think?

I'll have to get the HR31 going to get the Stagea into the garage

i Thanks I wonder if I should get the engine rebuilt? Or just patch it up and get it back on the road. Timing belt is due. It has 245k on the clock. Water pump got done about 100k back, with the last timing belt. I think everything else is original. I think there might be an issue with the turbo as well. I thought taking the head off had issues with exhaust studs breaking etc.