QLDR31

Mines due again, Steering fluid is browning up. Might see if i can get a blocker for the reservoir return this time. At least my son is old enough to do the cranking job. I was thinking it might be nice to add a T tap on the return to make future flushes easier. Anyone tried something like that? Probably too much hassle.

What's the coolant mod? Got a link? Is it just for M35? I'm thinking of flushing the coolant on a S2. Not sure on steps to do it.

This is the best Stagea pad list i've seen so far. From the Bendix website. Id guess all turbo variants would have the same type for that year, bar the Autech version.

Yes this thread is way too long, with 90% unanswered questions and lots of facts without type of Stagea there for etc. I guess a majority of people no longer have a mighty Stagea in their garage. I have a Stagea S2 1999 model, I've done about 200K probably on original rotors. I think im overdue for a new rotor and pad combo. I've changed the pads twice since i've owned it. Front pads: Once with GSL Rallysport GSL009 HP-X and once with Remsa 0852 14 (Renault Koleos 06.08, Nissan Murano). Rear pads: Once with GSL Rallysport QDB1399 HP-X and once with Bendix DB1399GCT. If I can find some rotors i'll probably go to GSL Rallysport again. Otherwise I might try the upgrade option. I have some R32 GTR calipers and 4 piston alloy Calipers (I think from Z32 turbo). I also have R34 GTT rims on it so probably not a bad option. On Ebay you can get Rotor and pad packages for Stagea 1996-2001. But I think this is a typo and only for series 1 (1996-1998).

Located at Brisbane South Two have a little gutter rash, two have no gutter rash. Tyres hold air well, but probably not enough tread to be legal. I think these are also on some R33 skylines. $150 Call or SMS me on 0435 804 517

My problem ended up being a faulty coil.

Any other causes for engine light? Mine has been coming on lately and doesn't go out until ignition turned off. I better get the diag cable out.

Anyone seen factory cruise control? I want

Thats sounds pretty good then. Yeah looks like for compliance my car got the xenons butchered. Connector filled with glue and cables chopped. Probably easier to get another set if I wanted to go that way.

I think i'd rather pay $80 for Philips ones than $15 for something that may or may not last. Id be interested if the cheap ones last more than two years. I bought Philips lights for my R31 about 8 years ago, still going. I've also got cheap ones in the past from Supercheap think they lasted 1 or 2 months, this was about 8 years ago though, so quality might be better these days. On a similar topic My S2 Stagea headlights stopped working last night. Parkers and High beams still work. I think it may have been running on one bulb for a while (lights weren't great for a while). So probably up for two new bulbs. I think it has the factory lights still in but maybe unplugged or wiring chopped for compliance. Is it just a matter of plugging these back in. Anyone had similar experience?

Thanks I was thinking maybe the FWD part wasn't 100% before, now the fluids are ok its' working harder? My wife reckons she hasn't seen the light any more. Yeah i'll look into it. Good tips.

Hi, I finished changing the fluids on the 4wd system. Now when I give it a little the engine warning light comes on. Drive it sedately and no problems. Any ideas what causes this? Oil changed within 5000Km, plenty there. My wifes driving up to Bundy a 600Km drive on Friday, so hopefully sort it by then. Cheers, Brendan

I cleaned the sump and filter before pumping out the old stuff. Instead of doing that last.

Yeah that long to muster some courage. Had a few other things to do as well, I only have one spot to work on cars, and that spot is usually got a project in there. The auto had been done around that time. But I didn't trust the mechanic did it or used the right stuff. I ended up drilling and tapping a slightly longer bolt into the sump. Drained it from the pipe above the sump plug. Had to lower the gearbox a bit to easily get the pipe off and on. Tied some plastic tube onto the pipe with a cable tie. Had a go at pumping it out by cranking. That took for ever so I hooked up the fuel fuse and ran it a few short times, keeping fluid topped up. I ended up pumping about 5L out of it. I added an extra magnet I got off my last box and placed it above the sump plug. I also had to tap one of the cross-member bolt holes. Because the bolt didn't want to go in.

I drained it with the pipe next to the bleeder on the pump. To bleed that bleeder, I had to loosen it a lot before air and fluid came out. I didn't bother with a bleed pipe for that. Yeah I ran the engine with a bleeder pipe on the bleeder next to the transfer case. Think it rushed out fast because there was air in the line. Then it started coming out a bit slowly. Had to run it a several times. Now I get the engine light when I give it a little

Thanks yeah I will check it out. To hot wire the pump I probably need to add volts to that connector. Still not sure on draining, maybe pump it out the nipple behind the transfer case. Always easier once you've done it before. I will let you know how I go.

I finally got around to servcing my auto gearbox yesterday. I hear that the filter is cleanible. One of the bolts threaded a hole for the sump . I'm thinking about drilling it a bit deeper and tapping it and putting in a slightly longer bolt. Or maybe going up a bolt size. They are M6 bolts, I wonder if they make an M7 one, that would probably be safer. I've given the diffs and transfer case a fluid change as well.

Hi guys, Anybody properly serviced a power-pak before? I read an article in Performance Imports about Attessa. It had a bit of info about servicing a Power-Pak. Basically you need to drain it. (I'm not sure on this, drain it by the nipples or take a pipe off???). Then fill it up the reservoir in the boot i'm guessing. With Nissan Matic D or Castrol Transmax Z. Bleed out air from the nipple under the power-pak (above the diff) using gravity. Then bleed out air from the nipple behind the Transfer Case. For this you need to hook a wire and switch in the fusebox??? So does anyone know how to drain it and hot wire the power-pak to pump and bleed out air? Cheers, Brendan

Were does everyone download from? I tried kickass as above, don't mind paying for it but not too keen to hand over my credit card details.

Yeah I got QFM HPX, Bendix Ultimate equivalent for my S2 Stagea from GSL. I don't take it to the track or anything, but haven't had any issues.

Whats the pov way to change the auto fluid? Eg no new filter, leave the gearbox gasket alone. 1) Drain it. 2) Can you turn it over with no fuel pump, to pump out old fluid ? 3) Fill it up Supposedly my fluids have been changed when I did a gearbox change recently. The mechanic said he also changed the fluid in the transfer case, but didn't look changed when I did it.

Hi guys, Just wondering if M35 17" Rims fit on a S2 Stagea (1999) ? Thanks Brendan

Hi, Just wondering what calipers come from factory as alloy. I know twin turbo 300ZX Z32's come with alloy calipers. Do any R32-R34's come with alloy calipers. I thought gtr calipers were alloy. Thanks Brendan

Thanks, So that reservoir is for the transfer case then ? Yeah the diff filler is on the passenger side, half way up towards the rear of the diff. The oil in the boot reservoir looks pretty brown and a bit low, So i'm going to replace it and the front diff as well.

Anyone know the minimum thickness of S2 rear discs? Someone needs to kill this thread and make a new one with a summary of valid details.