QLDR31

Yeah I don't know mine has a button below the dash. When thats pressed turn the ignition on and a 4wd lights up on the dash. Then notchy steering etc. One note: I'd never own a RWD without an LSD.

I have a S2 RS4. I think id prefer a RWD. Less maintenance hassels down the track, when 4WD is turned on its a bit notchy steering when parking etc, RWD has less weight too. I did my first hard launch the other day with 4WD with mode on (normally just go around in RWD). Got airborne I think it has alot more go then in RWD mode. The Stageas probably a lot easier to modify then a Legnum. If your after big power you could go for the R260 model.

Did you get in contact with the repairer ? I'd say it's pretty unlikely it just decided to die then. My guess would be you have a bad or no connection on one of those cables above the rear of the tappet cover. There are also some sensors in the engine bay for aircon. I just changed the exhaust cover seal the other week on my s2 stagea. It's probably not that hard to miss reconnecting something if your mechanic isn't paying attention or isn't very bright. Your best bet might be to take it to a good auto electrician. If you find a spare aircon controller, im after some light bulbs, nissan want $13+ each.

Your problem isn't something like the ECU needs reprogramming and tuning? Sounds like it has a few mods.

TODO LIST: 1. 3 inch exhaust, turbo back free flowing cat and muffler. 2. Front-Mount Intercooler and piping. 3. Remove boost restictor. 4. Engine Oil Cooler 5. Turbo upgrade once old turbo dies, tune and re-program ECU. Upgrade the radiator if temperature going above halfway. I haven't done many of these myself, lots of hpi and zoom reading, haha

Maybe check around the engine, see if they forgot to plug something in.

Thanks

I think my swaybar bushes are stuffed on the front. Something rattles when I go over bumps. Does anyone know if R33 GTR have the same ones?

My recommendation is sell the cluster. I spent about 3-4days on it. I used the R34 GTT ECU connector wiring diagram (which looks the same as a S2 ECU) connected all the likely outputs. And managed to get all of nothing working. very frustrating. I might have another go at it, later on. If there is a next time I will probably workout what signals each gauge requires, and test each gauge. Then meter the ECU and ensure the correct outputs are there. But if someone else works it out that would be cool.

Yeah I checked with a diag program, no faults. I recently had the radiator fixed, I think some trans fluid is leaking, maybe the problem is low trans fluid. I will top it up and see.

Hi, Anyone seen a fault where the A/T light turns itself on, the when you stop at the lights it stalls. This happens occasionally, If I turn the ignition off the on its all good. I thought it might have something to do with the snow switch, but that is now unplugged. Any ideas would be great. Cheers Brendan

My auto RB25DET NEO Stagea is experiencing a stalling problem. About 50% of the time when I stop it stalls. Pretty anoying, the mechanic said the battery was going down to 9V when starting. So today I bought a new battery, but that didn't make any difference to the stalling problem. It would be interesting to know what your problem is. Maybe mine is just a simple idling too low problem. It just got serviced the other week maybe they stuffed it.

I've pretty much given up on installing these gauges. I thought I had oil temp and boost wired up right but nothing worked. I also tried some other likely outputs from the ecu but no luck. Probably would have been a good idea to test the gauges first.

I got one thanks.

If your thinking of upgrading from S1 to S2 Stagea. Just go to R33 Skyline brakes, as they are easier to get discs and pads for and better performance.

Im putting a neo Rb25DE into an R31, think all the neo engines have them. Don't think they are too critical. It sposed to stop fuel from pulsing and supposedly stops fuel from returning to the tank when the cars been sitting around for long time. So the car can do a clean start.

Any body got a spare fuel damper? As per pic: Thanks Brendan

I bought an engine for my R31, it didn't come with one. Hopefully they last for ever

Thanks Wheres the other end ment to go ? Hanging loose on the steering rack ?

The oil looked a bit browny on the dip stick. But when drained it looked very black. I bought some Penrite HPR 5 semi synthetic 5W-40. 5L cost me around $45 from SuperCheap, Thought id give it a try and Penrite is Australian Owned yay!

Could someone tell me where this pipe is ment to go? Its below the oil filter on an auto S2 RS4 Stagea. Im guessing it might be a breather or polution pipe off the auto transmission. Just noticed it off when doing an oil change. The end closest to the arrow connects to the top of the 4wd transmission. The other end goes who knows where.

Thats a beasty looking Stagea. Not sure how to test the oxygen sensor. Think they are around $90 maybe more. A while back I purchased a USB diagnostic cable it allows you to connect a laptop to the car and tell you faults etc, A tool like this might be handy for working out issues. Maybe someone locally has one? Some good turbo timers use the oxygen sensor to workout how long the car stays running for, maybe this is causing the problem with your turbo timer.

Thanks that software is handy. Thats interesting so I guess that is for ABS. I thought it was the triptronic control module. Yeah AA080. Here are all the numbers I can see: Stamped On: 47850 AA080 G98-000 J18 0Z01 White Sticker: AOY300843 WA98000 J18WWW 07446842 00-12-029-1

Thanks. It sposed to stop fuel from pulsing and supposedly stops fuel from returning to the tank when the cars been sitting around for long time. So the car can do a clean start. I better start hunting for a second hand one

For interest I was quoted $190 if I dropped the radiator off, and they cleaned it out and new top tank. I would have prefered an alloy one, but cheap alloy auto tanks are hard to find and this was covered by warranty anyway.