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Fhrx

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About Fhrx

  • Birthday 18/03/1976

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    http://www.fhrxstudios.com

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  1. Failing that email me your address and I'll send you one.
  2. Seeing as you sit at the front and your ears face forwards, I'd recommend you spend all your money there.
  3. One of the main reasons we use Dynamat over other deadening variants such as SoundOFF and Roadkill is that it can be peeled off to allow access to the inner door workings if required. I have six layers on my heap (three inner / three outer) and I recently peeled it back so the paintless dent guy could get in there and take out some annoying little dimples in the doors.
  4. The enclosure will need to be constructed from at least 18mm MDF. The volume of the enclosure changes depending on the install but as a general ball park figure I'd aim for around the 0.9cf to 1.1cf sealed region.
  5. One of the better tutorials regarding amplifier classes can be found here.
  6. When you're doing them you'll need to remove the computer from memory. This allows you to get the plug out from the body side of the car (it comes out backwards). Regarding the metal clips, they're what actually holds the sockets into the body. If you dropped them down into the body then head down your local Jaycar and get yourself a magnetic probe like this: Use this to dig around and find those clips.
  7. One of the first steps we always recommend you do is install a larger battery (deep cycle if you plan on running the stereo without the car running) and earthing upgrade. The R34 has quite a large alternator and I would have thought for a one amplifier system (unless of course the amplifier is 4 x 500 continous or something that large) it would have no problems keeping the battery topped up. Definately start with the earth upgrade first though as it's the cheapest. For more info see here: Earthing kit http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/ground_2.jpg http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/ground_3.jpg http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/ground_4.jpg http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/ground_5.pdf Batteries Optima D34 http://www.optimabatteries.com.au Odyssey 1200MJT http://www.odysseybatteries.com Stinger SPV44 http://www.stingerelectronics.com Scosche EFX EDC1200 http://www.scosche.com For photos see here: http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp...asp#interest8_4 Hope that helps.
  8. If the RCA cables are no where near ANY power cables (not just the stereo ones), then check the location of the crossovers. Sometimes crossovers can induce noise into the sound stream if they're mounted to close to larger power cables.
  9. We usually make a 6x9" baffle that attaches to the bottom of the parcel shelf. The speaker mounts face up to that baffle and simply fires through it and the hole in the shelf. Remember that only the midrange and tweeter need to fire through the whole entirely. If the 6x9" cone (which is a sub / mid bass driver) doesn't fire through the hole entirely, the bass will not be overly affected.
  10. Are you in NSW perchance? We'd be more than happy to diagnose it for you.
  11. Propods are another option too if you're not confident with a jigsaw.
  12. If you're thinking of installing them in your front doors then see the tutorial at the top of this section.
  13. I'll advocate APS too.
  14. Assuming you have the amplifier hooked up correctly there are a few things to look at; 1. Have you tried another source and RCA cables? Just to check the amplifier is actually receiving a signal. 2. Have you also checked the subwoofer is wired up and no wires have come undone (inside the enclosure for example)?
  15. You didn't include a budget? Just a personal opinion of course, but I wouldn't recommend running a Clarion amplifier as their damping factor and distortion levels, while nice, are not as good as some on the market. For example, why not have a look at these (do still include Clarion in your auditioning process though): Audio System F2.500 http://service.winnet.it/Gttrading4/easysi...udio_system.asp Crossfire XP1000D http://www.crossfirecaraudio.com Earthquake PH2200W/D1.1 http://www.earthquakesound.com DLS A3 http://www.dls.se Audison LRx1.1k http://www.audison.com Boston GT28 http://www.bostonacoustics.com Tru-Tech B2200 http://www.trutechnology.com Digital Designs DD Z1 http://www.ddaudio.com Focal FP1.800 http://www.focal-fr.com Infinity 611A http://www.infinitysystems.com There are many others too but that is a start.
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