Fhrx

I usually work out the maximum current draw, add 10% and install that fuse.

Yeppers, they're certainly rubbish alright.

Run channels 1 and 2 into the front splits. Run channels 3 and 4 bridged into the sub. Like this: You're at the front and your ears face forwards so unless you have people in the back constantly or your running 5.1 surround, you don't really need rear speakers.

With all due respect, dimming lights are a sign of bad system wiring and caps are a band-aid fix for a bigger problem. Before you start buying caps, you need to have a good look at the wiring in the system. Then take a look at the charging system and power storage. If there is a problem, upgrade the battery and alternator before buying a cap.

Should sound nice. Why two caps though?

Remember plenty of us will beat other stores dramatically for our online buddies.

They retail for $509. I've PM'ed you a price.

When sound deadening is installed the difference is very noticable. Even factory speakers sound better when you transform their home from a tin can into a serious (read; strong and solid) foundation.

SRx3's retail for $697. I'll do them for you guys for a fraction over $600. Regarding smalled and / or cheaper amps, I wouldn't recommend going to far under that sort of power as you'll find you run into distortion if your amplifier is not up to your demands.

The last Skyline I did (last week) had 6" in the front standard.

The RC620's retail for $549. I do them for forum buddies for $480.

Boss 1000watt and Kenwood 500 watt? Remember one thing you have to realise that those amps are only outputting a fraction of their quoted power. A serious 1000 watt amp will be nearly a meter long usually. Disciple, are you open to suggestions regarding your system dude? If you don't mind me saying, this is what I'd suggest you do. 1. Put the $300 to one side. 2. Sell both your existing amplifiers. 3. Buy a single quality powerful amplifier (something like an Audison SRx3). 4. Run your fronts and sub with the above amp ( 75 RMS to each from and 250 RMS to the sub). 5. Run the rears off your deck. There you go. Once you have thrown in some sound deadening to strenghen up the front stage sound and quality cable to interconnect the entire thing, you'll have a beautifuly crisp sounding clean system that can blow your head off every now and again.

They retail at $299. I do them for forum buddies for around $256.

No sub ever does.

I am more than happy to sell you JL equipment if you need it.

Certainly. I have installed many of those amps before and not once have I ever suffered from turn on/off thump. Have you upgraded the battery negative as well as all the amp negatives? Try this for me. 1. Disconnect your remote wire from the head unit. 2. Run a seperate wire from your battery to the amp. 3. Turn the system on. 4. Now feed the amp with 12 volts on the remote. If this turns it on and off with out the thump, then you'll know it's either the Kenwood amp of the deck. This is the first step in the process of elimination. I'll await your reply before suggesting anything else.

How about an Audison SRx2?

I'll head down there soon and grab the list for you. Standby...

Brand new champ. Remember I'm an Audison dealer in NSW. I do have plenty of second hand stuff piled up here though...

Heh... hippy's remedy sounds quite attractive too!

I've never had any issues running speaker cables near power runs. You're using quality cables yeah?

Have you moved the RCA's away from the power cables?

Yeah that is the price WAB sells them for champ. Their RRP is $599. I always offer components cheaper to my forum buddies so if you find cheaper let me know.

RRP$599 dude.

He means upgrading the cars negative - body connection to cope with the additional load the amp will place on the electrical system. Like this one we did yesterday: