Jump to content
SAU Community

Fhrx

Members
  • Posts

    444
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by Fhrx

  1. For prices on the JL range see www.customcar.com.au dude.
  2. I am not too sure myself actually but I would not think they'd be more than 80mm mounting depth. Most 6" midbass drivers are between 60-70 mm mounting depth.
  3. You would be simply shocked at what a hundred kilo enclosure can do when you decelerate from 100kph to 0kph in under a tenth of a second. I know I was. This may be unlikely in the event of a Skyline given the geography of the car but I'm sure we all understand my point.
  4. Just make sure the enclosure is secured extremely tightly as in accidents they become lethal. I remember seeing some photos once from the States where the sub box had taken out the two front people. Not a pretty sight I tell you.
  5. Just a quick message to say that once Payam has sold his, people here are welcome to get them from me. I always take care of my fellow forum members when it comes to equipment prices.
  6. It is one of the most overlooked aspects of car audio. You don't build a nitro funny car and run it with quarter inch plastic fuel lines do you? The same way, your amps don't function strongly unless they have the current to do so.
  7. You can send it back and from memory a re-cone kit for one of those will cost you around $150 complete.
  8. I wouldn't recommend running each voice coil from a different channel of the amp. They (the amp) are not balanced well enough and I fear you may damage your speaker.
  9. Electronic Warehouse also has very good tools for this sort of thing.
  10. We're getting a tad carried away here. Running a single Alpine amp is not going to require 2AWG cable. As for the cable itself, much like everything else, you'll pay for quality. Realistically for wiring an amp up, including the speakers etc will set you back between $130-$200 for brands like Stinger and Phoenix Gold and between $250-$330 for brands like Streetwires. JR, you asked where you can get 2AWG from? I can get it for you from any of the above mentioned brands. I use 1/0AWG in my own S15.
  11. Alpines usually don't have much trouble with CD-R's. I'd suggest taking it to your nearest Alpine dealer and having them take a look at it.
  12. Albets are very good in the car audio game. I know it does cost a bit to get things done but at least you can rest easy now and enjoy your tunes without fear of anything stopping.
  13. Quality decks are usually quite forgiving once or twice. Usually. I wouldn't push it though champ.
  14. See the problem is these days is that when we suggest people take their cars to qualified installers and not touch it themselves, the afore mentioned people think we're suggesting they're stupid? Believe me, we're not. Guys, please take your cars to installers rather than attempt this sort of thing yourselves unless you're 100% confident. streamer, I can think of about twenty things it could be based on my experiences over the years and I urge you to take it to someone before your entire loom goes up mate. I mean no disrespect but sometimes it's best to let the professionals take over. I suspect this may be one of those time champ.
  15. This problem is not uncommon. Many decks struggle to play CD-R's. Additionally, more often than not it will be a certain type of CD-R that won't play. For example, my Nakamichi CD-700 will not play any of the gold Kodak CD-R's for some reason, even though it plays Verbatim / TDK / Imation and other without problem. What type of deck do you have?
  16. Well, we try. www.fhrxstudios.com
  17. Quality brands usually have their branding all over their products. There lies your problem. High end installers are always crapping on about using high end cable. There is a good reason for this. Like you don't use quarter inch plastic fuel lines on a nitro funny-car, nor should you use cheap cables on your stereo or this sort of thing happens. Now bare in mind I am only going on what you have told me. If you want a more definate answer to what is causing it, I can come and meet you somewhere and diagnose the system no problems.
  18. From what you have told me I'm guessing the problem lies in the way the system has been wired. Are the wires good quality like Streetwires / Stinger / Phoenix Gold etc or non-name stuff?
  19. Birthing, as in originating. Sorry about that... Does the hiss change at all with the revs of the car? Have you got any other components you can put in the car to try and single out one component? Who set the gains on the amp? What voltage output does your head unit have?
  20. Unfortunately hissing is not something associated with small speaker wires. This source of this problem will found elsewhere, possibly birthing before the amp even receives the music signal.
  21. It's always required that the speaker cable be upgraded when higher current (ie from an amplifier) flow is required. As for 6x9's, you sit at the front and your ears face forward, so why (unless you're running DTS etc) bother with any speaker in the back? Besides, the stock ones do their job of fill good enough.
  22. I actually thought it was supposed to be 7500ish... We'll see. I'll find out soon enough.
  23. $4500 is the best I've seen in the UK. Not out here yet dude.
  24. The new harddrive decks are becoming more affordable this year. Especially the Alpine ones. Have you considered using one of these perchance?
  25. We often undertake installs using fibreglass and kevlar. Click the link in my sig to find out more.
×
×
  • Create New...