Fhrx
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Everything posted by Fhrx
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Guys, in the R33 it can be done. It's a big job but we do it here all the time. You will need to get those white plastic plugs out and drill a small hole through the plug. You'll find there is space to run 16AWG through there.
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Don't just buy a full Alpine system because people say they're good. Remember to audition as many brands as you can and make a decision based on what you like the sound off best. Make sure you speak to a variety of stores too and ask around about everything they say. Other brands to consider are some of these: Treo Oz Audio Digital Designs Boston Diamond Audio DynAudio Hertz Focal Crossfire Morel Vibe Earthquake Phoenix Gold Polk Audio Phass Eton Blau Lotus Audio System Audison ARC Audio Zapco Tru-Tech Milbert One other thing; is there a reason you want rear speakers? Seeing as you sit at the front and your ears face forward, this is where I would put all your money.
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They're a nice deck with plenty of functionality but that slider bar control drives me nuts. For me personally I would run with something like a Pioneer DEH-P8650MP but it all comes down to personal opinion. Have a play with one and see if you like the deck. Things to look for include the DAC, number or pre-outs, S/N and DSP abilities.
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The enclosure gives 18.3 litres for each subwoofer. Based on the Thiele / Small's of the 27V2's this will return a Q of about 0.69. That will offer tight bass with a deep natural roll off but will still boom just enough to deal with the large interior of the wagon.
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What Decent Component Speakers Around $250-300?
Fhrx replied to JimX's topic in Car Audio & Electrical
I would listen to as many different speakers as possible and make the choice based on what your ears tell you. -
If you wish to see some photos of what it should look like when all done feel free to email me and I'll send you some.
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By the way, for those PM'ing me about the deadening; it is G-Spot Flexi-max sound deadening (inner and outer skin) with G-spot wave breaker diffusers.
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I have sent emails to both of you. Just case anyone else wants to know what we're talking about; I've posted the images below. Basically what we were discussing was that while 6" speakers are good drop in option, it is not too much further effort to install 6.5" speakers, an option that presents a much larger selection so far as the aftermarket speaker world is concerned. I hope that helps you out.
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To solve the afore mentioned issues we quite often install earthing kits. This assists in solving many of things mentioned in the post above. For a little more information read these at your leisure: http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/ground_2.jpg http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/ground_3.jpg http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/ground_4.jpg http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/ground_5.pdf For photos of them in situ see here: http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp...asp#interest8_4
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If you like shoot me an email and I'll send you some photos of what the baffles etc look like once installed.
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You can fit 6.5" in there but like any good speaker installation, you're going to need to make a pair of baffles. They're not too hard to make but the R33 can be a little fiddly due to the shape of the original speaker mount that screws to the door.
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Sadly most online stores in Australia are not legitimate account holders. Hell, even we're only allowed to sell around half of what we stock online.
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Are you looking for online audio website or online stores?
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They're not hard to get at all champ. We always get them straight from Nissan. Just ring them up and get them to order it in for you.
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That sounds good to me. Where are you located? If you're in QLD you might want to go and see Chris (Audio Express) as he can set you up with all your speakers needs. Just to further explain what I was talking about when I said you sit at the front and your ears face forwards. The Pinna (also called the auricle) is the visible part of the outer ear. It collects sound and directs it into the outer ear canal. Ass you can see (and feel) if faces forwards therefore placing speakers in the rear isn't really necessary. This is the reason many demo and competition cars have their rear speakers turned down or simply don't have them at all. Note; obviously this rule doesn't apply if you're using surround sound.
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From what I read they appear to be quite a nice piece of equipment. Chris has a special going on these at the moment too people.
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Just to offer up an alternative viewpoint; seeing as you're seated at the front and your ears face forwards I would leave the rear speakers factory for now. The only time we bother upgrading the rear speakers is if you either A; have people in the rear all the time or B; run surround sound. I'd love to sell you another set but you really do not need to upgrade them. Why not inject all your funds into the front where you are? Maybe spend that money saved (on not buying rears) on some sound deadening? As far as an amplifier goes, I would suggest something similar to Chris in that I would first try it with just the deck. You might find the decks internal amplifier is powerful enough to satify your listening levels. If it is not, then go for the amplifier option.
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You have your caps lock key stuck on too. Can you post a few images up for us please?
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Well that's what it's all about. If you're happy with the sound then that is all that matters.
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Information On The New Hertz Mille Series Components.
Fhrx replied to Fhrx's topic in Car Audio & Electrical
Hey there Sid, you might want to come around this saturday dude. We're having a back-to-back component audition. The Hertz Milles will be there newly installed into one of our demo cars. You can chuck some of your CD's in, have a listen and tell me what you think mate. -
Just though I would post this infomation up here as there have been a few people asking about them. Arguably the ultimate in high end audio component sets, Hertz new 'Mille' component speakers have arrived on our shores. The Hertz Mille speakers are designed to set higher quality standards of musical reproduction in cars, with audio enthusiasts raving about the quality of these components throughout Europe and America. The new Mille splits are aimed at complimenting the top end market (think MB Quart, DLS, Scan, Boston, Diamond, Rainbow and Focal territory). Retail pricing is set at $1,986 for the two way system and $2,966 for the three way system which uses a ribbon midrange. Like most speakers of this nature, all models come in a brief case type presentation and consist of matched components for the finest possible sound. Released at the worlds largest dedicated car audio show in Germany last month the speakers were a true show stopper. For more infomation on the Hertz Mille range of components, click here. Here are some more photos of them: Click here for larger image. Click here for larger image. Click here for larger image. Click here for larger image. Click here for larger image. Click here for larger image. Click here for larger image. Click here for larger image. Click here for larger image. Click here for larger image. Click here for larger image. Click here for larger image.
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Don't cut any metal on the shelf. As an engineer I can tell you that you'll have issues with both insurance companies and the RTA as they tend to frown upon that type of thing these days. Instead either make yourself some 18mm MDF spacers and secure them to the bottom of the shelf. Remember only the midrange and tweeter on the 6x9 need to fire through the hole. The 6x9 woofer can thump away quite happily with part of it covered by the factory hole. Another option is; you could always get yourself a set of pro-pods. We use these pods all the time on shelves. Once they're dyed to match the colour of the original trim they fit in perfectly.
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You can buy the stereo brackets from Nissan themselves. They're around $35-$50 for the pair. We do a lot of insurance work down here so we tend to buy them in from Nissan as we need them.
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You're more than welcome to browse our photo galleries for installation ideas.
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Just on the subject of subwoofers and enclosures remember that you must design the enclosure correctly. This of course means you have to first check out all the Thiele / Small specs of the subwoofer itself. This alone usually rules out most pre-fab ones. You then must take the T/S specs along with the resonant frequency of the car, the volume of the car, the volume level the customer desires and the music they listen too and then you must simulate between forty and sixty enclosures on the PC until you get the correct response curve to match what sound you desire. Then you need to build it correctly but I don't think I need to go further into that. On the subject of what type of enclosure, you might want to have a quick read of this.