Fhrx

I agree with Konrad. I too have tried looking for the products and could only find Japanese auction sites selling them. Even http://www.panasonic.co.jp didn't have anything in their archives. The issues with the lines could be a PAL to NTSC issue?

Speaker popping can be caused by a number of things ranging from a bad earths or shorts (which you have said you have already checked) to a damaged components (damaged equipment could also have been caused by a plethora of things too so that must be checked also if damaged equipment is found to be the cause). If you like, you're more than welcome to bring it down for us to diagnose for you. Can you also list your component please?

Pshht, you're welcome to bring it here for diagnosis if you cannot figure out what is causing the issue.

Sidd, we have to get those doors sound deadened! While I'm on the subject, if anyone wants to see what the Skyline doors look like when they're fully sound deadened, let me know and I'll upload some.

I've made up some alloy plates that sit underneath. The amp is screwed to that champ.

My system currently looks like this: # Source: Clarion HXD2. # Processing: Zapco (SymbiLink). # Amps: Zapco C2K-6.0X's. # Front: Rainbow Reference CS265 and Boston Z ambient tweeters. # Sub: Diamond TDX10. # Cable & Deadening: Streetwires / Stinger. # Batteries: Stinger SPV44 (front) / Optima D34M (rear).

Just how large is the amp? We quite often do R33's with an Audison SRx3 under the boot floor next to the spare tire and a 10" sub under the shelf. Like this:

Very true. With radically different power levers sub to amp you're going to have to set the gains very carefully.

Slotting in between the entry level 'S' series speakers and the new Rally 'SL' series components, the 'SX' range offers superior sound quality and simple drop-in installation. This means the Boston SX speakers a perfect fit for car audio enthusiasts looking for great performance from factory locations. For prices on these and all other Boston products see our products page and for more information on the Boston 'SX' range, click here.

The main issue with the standard wires is that they cannot flow much current before they burn.

We sell quite a few Hertz speakers and they are quite good quality. They're a little bass heavy for my personal tastes but many of our customers love them.

We've done a fair few center seat mounts but I should say it was usually in dual cab utes etc. What did you want to know about them r33freely?

Are you in NSW? I'd be more than happy to diagnose it for you.

Source: Clarion HXD2 Processing: Zapco (SymbiLink) Amps: Zapco C2K-6.0X's Front: Rainbow Reference 6.5" midrange, Morel Supremo tweeters and Boston Z ambient tweeters. Rears: Toyota Soarer 6" Subs: Diamond Audio TDX12 Cable & Deadening: Streetwires / Stinger. Batteries: Stinger SPV44 (front) / Optima D34M (rear).

So in other words they don't fit perfectly at all?

Post photos for us to see...

In answer to your questions champ: 1. Yeah chicken wire is fine. There are many different ways to get the shape because remember stretching cloth only works with certain shapes. E.g. try stretching cloth to get this shape: 2. As for strenght testing, we use a highly scientific, highly advanded, secretly developed motorised testing system on out enclosures made from glass; I take em out on the driverway and drive over em! :D If it takes that, then it's strong enough.:crazy: 3. Test for leaks and volume by slowly filling it with water one litre at a time. 4. An asbestos mask should be fine for when you're sanding it but I was referring to when you actually apply the resin; just be careful the fumes don't get to you. 5. When making the enclosure give each layer a light sand between coats just to remove little nicks and pricks sticking up.

True, my bad. I can offer a few pointers for fibreglassing. Making fibreglass and carbon fibre (including Kevlar) parts in not overly hard, it is just time consuming when you have to sand the thing to perfection. I think one of the most important things to remember when creating fibreglass enclosure is preparation. Some things to consider are: * What do you want the final enclosure to look like? * Will you need a basic guide frame to hold the shape it up because the glass get heavy and sags once the resin in on it. Many people forget this. * Have you double masked everywhere where it could potentially drip? I.e., not just under the enclosure itself. What about too and from the car? * Have you considered ventilation. I've seen one or two installers knock themselves stupid quite a bit whilst trying to glass inside cars without ventilation. * Make sure you have plenty of rags, presol and acetone etc on hand to save any potential spills. Better to assume the worst and have it close at hand rather than rushing around looking for it once the resin begins going off. * Make sure you put quite a few layers on because high quality subs can push titanic amounts of air pressure when angry. Can I assume you've already know all about the mixing process and protective gear like gloves etc? Post picces as soon as you can!

Looks a treat. Good stuff. I notice the golden arches in the background! Even in Stsockholm?

No no, that sub is a PPI sub,. I was just assuming when you said flat piston you were talking about THE 'Flat Piston' PPI subs. For one of those I get 0.977cf.

Because it will look like this:

The PPI flat piston subwoofers are very good subs and they can sound very controlled and tight in the correct enclosure. Especially the 10" if it has sufficient power running it. Acording to the info I have on the Skyline and the program I use (WinISD), the enclosure (if sealed) should be around 0.422cf to achieve a good sound quality Q (0.7). But anywhere up to 0.9cf will work, the Q just goes down to 0.55.

Okay someonestolecc, I'll address your points in your original post one at a time. 1. Sadly you cannot simply chuck any sub into any enclosure. What you need to do is take into account how loud you want it, what you listen too, the available power on tap and most importantly, the Thiele / Small parameters of the sub driver. Once you have all these determined it is often easier to chuck them all into a program but if you want to email me I can explain how to do them all with a calculator. 2. If the enclosure is sealed than shape does not matter at all so long as there is sufficient room behind the PPI driver to let the pole cent flow air. If you don't leave sufficient space you risk overheating the sub because it cools through the vent. Now if the enclosure is ported then you also need to make sure you leave enough room for the air to flow freely from the cone backside to the port. 3. See question 2. 4. Which way should you aim your subwoofer? The aiming of subwoofers has been quite a topic of speculation for years now in car audio. Through experimenting many people have found that their subwoofers sound much better when aimed backwards. Many people realise that there seems to be much more bass with the boot open than with the boot closed. We've heard a great deal of strange and utterly incorrect theories to explain this phenomenon. The main reason this phenomenon occurs is all about sound waves (direct and reflected) and more importantly the cancellation of these waves. The diagrams below assist in showing the sine waves and their phase relationships between the direct sound wave entering the car and the reflected wave that hits the back of the boot and reflects forward. Since the reflection is bounced into the listening area one can treat them much the same as having two sources. In the above picture the vertical black line at the left of the picture is the boot rear panel (the beaver panel the tail lights are mounted on). This picture is an illustration of what happens when sound comes out of the front side of the subwoofer enclosure. Sound travels forward into the car (the red wave) and also backwards to reflect off of the back of the boot (the purple wave). Both the direct wave and reflected wave get to the listener but they are way out of phase causing enormous cancellation in the listening area. At this stage if you opened the boot the reflected wave would disappear and NOT reflect back into the car, thus resulting in no cancellation In the picture above picture the speaker box has been aimed at the boot instead of the rear seat and you can clearly see the direct and reflected waves are not nearly as much out of phase as in the first example. This resulting in much better bass reproduction. This picture above represents the subwoofer enclosure being moved to the rear of the trunk with the subwoofer aiming forward. The waves are a little closer to being in phase with each other. In this picture (above) we're aiming the rear mounted subwoofer enclosure at the rear so the direct and reflected wave are very close to being in perfect phase from the start and hence they reinforcing each other quite well. Note; these pictures are simulated using a 60Hz note with the rear of the box mounted approximately 3 feet from the back of the boot. Keep in mind we're only discussing the direct and rear reflected sound in an effort to try to simplify this. The reflecting sound waves in a car are much more complex than these drawings indicate but we must start simple before getting too carried away. This explanation should be a nice foundation for those of you who wish to study this phenomenon further. One other thing we should mention is that before people comment that this cannot be true because the interior of cars being small in relation to bass wavelengths, the full wavelength does not have to completely develop to be in or out of phase with its own reflected sound. The pictures above are showing a 60Hz wavelength and the bounce distance to reflect back out of phase a complete 180 degrees is just over 4 foot. At higher frequencies the distance is less (120Hz is 2.3ft for example). Hope that sorts your questions.

If the amplifier goes into protection without anything hooked up to it (ie output or input) the first thing to check is the earth. It may be going into current protection if the earth is weak.

Another happy customer.