Fhrx

I'll keep an eye out around the industry for you - do they have to be Alpine subs?

You may have a dictionary but you could be perceived as being a little misguided with regards to defamation laws (9024-4359 i, ii, iii). Re-read what I said please, without a heated conscience this time champ. I was only asking a simple question based on experience of being deceived in the past. Surely one cannot blame me for asking such a question. However, if the afore mentioned question has offended you then I offer my sincere apologies and ask that you overlook my 'cyber' abruptness.

J-Flash, there is no need to get acrimonious. I was mearly posing an obvious question, in fact one that any honest person put forward - can you fault that? You could have just answered 'yes'...

You've sorted out all the copyrighting and legal issues I trust?

Email sent.

Get a single DIN HD headunit and a pocket. I say this because (with all due respect to people like Paul) I am yet to see a double DIN HD headunit that has even slightly impressed me with it's abilities.

Emailed.

I'm forever folding my TV down when the coppers pull me over hey.

No, it's certainly a smart move as the more power you have, the more control over the sound you'll have. I just didn't want to give you the biggest ones unless you mentioned it. :D

The Xenon amplifiers are very nice and intially (they're new) we've had very positive results. Even our competiton car is Xenon amplifier equipped. For your system listed above Iwells, I would suggest the following dude: To run the front: Xenon X200.2 To run the sub: Xenon X600.1 For full retail prices, see the products page on our website. For your prices, email me.

Thoughts on what dude? All of the larger company's master units are quite nice. The Alpine IVA, Pioneer P7550 and the Clarion 935. But the Pioneer has a surround 5 channel amplifier built in.

Hmm... It is a large problem here...

It's like saying the RB26 looks different to the SR20. Two totally different speakers. The two afore mentioned subwoofers have different motor and suspension structures and are designed to output a different sound, receive different amounts of power and output radically different amounts of noise.

Every subwoofer needs a specific volume of air behind it to achieve the bass response that the installer desires. It's not just different between subs either. An IDMAX12 in your car would need a different enclosure if it was in a Hummer or Caddy because you would need a different response curve (larger for more boom)... The stuff, you mean fibrefill? This is what we put into enclosure when the enclosure is too small (due to space restrictions)... the delayed airwaves fool the subwoofer into 'seeing' a larger enclosure behind it.

Know the feeling, I am still learning everyday about how things work too. 2ohms would need a stronger and more controlled amp to run it. More current flows at 2ohms than 4ohms so your amp needs to be able to control this larger current flow. On the matter of sound quality, resistance cannot be equated to sound quality. It all depends on the amplifier driving the sub as some amps are built to run at 1ohm, some are built to run at 20ohms etc...

We do but each month different forums I'm a member of get different discounts etc. But it never hurts to email me because I'll support the Skyline forums anywhere I can.

There are two main factors in the above post by ferni. Ohms and loading amps down. Let's explain Ohms first. Well lets see? Put simply, Ohms is the measurement of electrical resistance and system impedance. It is a measure of the degree to which electrons are limited in both velocity and quantity in passing through a circuit. In Impedance measurements, this takes into account, the mechanical resistance inherent in the motion of transducers. The standard is usually 4 ohms for car audio and 8 ohms for home and commercial audio. Some specialty woofers may be rated at 2, 6, 12 or even 16 ohms. You would have seen the 12 ohm JL's before no doubt. Ohm's Law is the he mathematical relationship between voltage, current, and resistance. It is named after George Ohm, it's discoverer. Ohm's law states that current volume in a conductor is directly proportional to the voltage flow across it and inversely proportional to its resistance. In general, this means that more voltage will produce more current, if resistance stays the same, but higher resistance will cause current to decrease if voltage stays the same. In mathmatical terms, V = I x R, where V is voltage, I is current, and R is resistance. Ohm's law is a description of electron behavior upon which virtually all understanding of electronics is based. Just for further background information, you might have heard all this called resistance of impedance so I'll give you a little more info on those two things as well. Regarding resistance, almost all conductors of electrons exhibit a property called resistance. Resistance impedes the flow of current. It is measured in units called Ohms. With a water hose, resistance could be regarded as friction between the water and the hose. A larger hose would create less friction and have a lower resistance than a smaller hose. It could also be a finger over the hose end. In electrical circuits, small round cylinders with wires on either end are called resistors. These typically reduce the flow of electrons to serve the specific requirements of the circuit elements, such as amplification or switching functions. Finally, Impedance. The totality measured in Ohms of all electrical opposition to current flow: resistance, reactance, capacitance, as well as all mechanical factors inhibiting the completion of energy transfer in a contained system. In practical terms, this means that most Drivers are assigned a certain nominal impedance based on their DC voice coil resistance and mechanical stiffness. For car audio this is usually 4 ohms; for home stereo, 8 ohms is the standard. Put simply, your voice coil has a certain amount of copper winds in the voice coil(s). If you want a high resistance, triple the amount of winds and the current suddenly has to do X amount more work to travel past the coil. If all that seems like bollocks, think of a tap. Voltage is the pressure, the flow is the amperes and the ohms is your finger over the end. When you take your finger off, the resistance is lessened (eg 0.5 - 1 ohm) and the water pours out everywhere. When you begin covering the hose end the resistance goes up (4-8 ohms)... Now amp loading. Just a quick note on overdriving amps when loading them down. Remember that power specs are not the only thing you look at when purchasing an amplifier. There are other things such as damping factors, slew rates, s/n ratios, separation and THD figures to go on too. Then there is wieghting of the figures to consider too. Just because an amplifier is X ohms stable doesn't mean you can simply load the amplifier down without risking something going pear shaped. Most Skyline motors are 8000rpm stable but you don't stay on 8000rpm all day do you? My suggestion is always plan a system at 4ohms. If you need more bass, add another amplifier and subwoofer, don't just ring the neck of your existing amp. Hope that cleared things up a little. As you can see neither way is 'better'. Series and parallel wiring configurations simply allow you move loading options.

We do recommend Phoenix Gold and Rockford but due to the fact that I have over 3500 products available to my fingertips I cannot list them all. :(

I'd rather the Clarion over many of the head units. We did one not too long ago in a Lexus. The newest Alpine IVA-D900R is a better unit but Clarion have not released their brand new monitor yet so we're all excitingly awaiting to see what it can do.

Um... thanks? No problems. I try to help where I can.

What ever you run at the front, the larger the two channel amplifier, the better. PG Titanium Elites are one of the best speakers around so if you can get yourself a set then do it. If not, buy a set off me. No truth in that at all. Some companies specialise only in subwoofers. You match the components based on the tastes of the listeners. Remember good quality bass comes primarily from the enclosure and clean power, not cone size.

Lets speak about speaker placement first. Seeing as you're sitting at the front and your ears face forwards too we need to concertrate on getting the quality sound at the front. Leave the rear speakers stock and run them off the head unit. The sub would be nice out on the bonnet but due to space, it will have to live in the boot too. Moving along to the power, I would recommend two amps. One two channel class A/B to run the splits. One class D mono block to run the sub. Talking about brands, for the amps I am going to recommend ones like Audison, Zapco, Tru-Tech, ARC Audio or Boston. Before I can recommend speakers I need to know what genres of music you listen too. If you list to softer genre (classical / blues / jazz etc) I would recommend speakers like Diamond M661, Focal Polyglass 165V2, Rainbow CS 265 P3 and Morel Dotech Mk II. For harder genres (like metal, RnB, hip hop etc) I would recommend speakers like Kicker RS6, Boston Pro6.5, Hertz HSK 1600, Image Dynamics CXS64 and Phoenix Gold X6.5. Subs, audition subs like JL Audio 12W6, Image Dynamics IDQ12D4.V2, Diamond M612, Focal 33A, Hertx HX300, Phoenix Gold X12D and Adire Brahma. Don't forget to factor in things like cable and sound deadening either.

I have a Type-X 12" sub here for testing. Nice build quality, that's for sure. I'll let you in on the sound as soon as I get her fired up.

That SRx3 is running totally at 4ohms so it doesn't get overly hot. Not that it makes much difference when one ponders just how hot tires get in summer...

Many Skyline's we do we fit Audison SRx3's under the floor next to the tire. Before anyone askes, yes it is screwed down on custom made mounting blocks to allow the tire to slide out around it. The floor still sits down too.