ssxRicho

$183.47

I did the same with shoes. Anyone need a pair of OMP Evo S in 11-12UK? lol

The Michelin man! It doesn't look that bad. But you have to be comfortable.

Have to get the diff back together and the front splitter sorted this weekend. I want to get out testing AD08R as soon as possible. Yoki have an event on the 3rd of August, so that is the aim. http://www.yokohama.com.au/en/ADVAN-Motorsport/ADVAN-Neova-Cup/ADVAN-Track-Days.aspx My brother has also been designing a rear diffuser. It's actually built now, but no pics of the actually until it's all done

55 if you're lucky. It's going to be a run out of fuel and be very very tired by 3PM day. Anyone going is getting massive number of runs. Thus why I'm going.

Not if you've got yoki tyres.

Looks great with the polished cas as well.

Latest dyno sheet.

front castor -7 deg front camber -3 deg front tow +0.8mm (ea) rear camber -1.7 deg rear tow -0.5 (ea) The camber settings change a little as we lift the front and rear regularly to find balance for the conditions. This also changes the tow slightly, though not much with the R33 arms. I haven't got any adjustable arms on the rear, so the standard camber bolts are pushed all the way to max positive. Wheel alignment settings go together with the spring choice, sway-bar setup, rake etc.

Brother bought it as a birthday present. Not sure. It's going to save waiting time in the pits between warm up laps and hot laps. As generally, it go out and blast a 80% lap, come back into the pits. Make sure the pressure are good, then go out and hit up a fast lap. The car sits around heat soaking while the pressures are checked. So as long as we calibrate the pressure readings from the senors with a good external gauge, it should be useful.

Tyres, tyres. I know on the current set of wheels I can just squeeze a set of 285's on there. I'm sure 285/30 will fit no worries. But....is there going to be a difference, even 0.1 seconds difference in going to a 295... Now a 295 is going to bulgde the hell off a 10" wheel, so i'd need a 10.5. To do that the offset needs to be way out there. 10.5 + 15, GTR offset....on GTST guards...I think not. So the question is, should I butcher the guards (which we are allowed to do this year) to fit the tyres. This is a shot of the current set with a 30mm spacer (around the same offset as the 10.5). The wheel is loaded via a jack to running height.

Some toys to fix the diff. A little gearbox maintenance with a new seat for the shifter and a new selector bush. Also people go on and on about roll center and bump steer. While I understand the mechanical theory, in practice on the track...mmm not sure. My front tie rods are not even near horizontal with the car is jacked up and suspension unloaded. They are still a good 10mm higher at the knuckle. So I'm smashing out good times, with the front arms pointing skyward. I think the car handles extremely well. So I'm further interested to see if these KTS rod ends make any measurable difference to the way the car handles. We changed the studs over to 70mm NISMO's a while back and now I've got some real wheel nuts. 2 piece project mu's.

The wing sits low on the standard GTR stands, so up it goes 30mm. These are made from 3mm alloy, one on each side of the wing stay. Also notice the go fast tape around the boot from NSW Time Attack. Also trying out some F1 inspired wing end plates. The old man cut these out of 2mm alloy, with the angle grinder.

Then we went about filling up some holes. This is most certainly for aero. I'm hoping to duct the oil cooler from the gap between the bar and the intercooler.

It's been decided that the splitter is not low enough to fully utilise the air and that the lower lip design wasn't the best aero wise. So we knocked a template out of wood. We will be attaching the front in in a way that makes it easy to get on and off. Also need to look into the fasening system from the splitter, as that needs to be structural to the chassis not the front bar. We also enlarged the intercooler opening, which isn't better for aero, but is for cooling.

Standard swaybar links aren't cutting it...

I've only been to Wakefield once and that was for the SAU Nats last year. 1.07 I think the time was. So this time around I've got less weight, little more power and wider tyres. 1.04.9 on the coldest two days on earth, I though PI was cold in Winter, this place has nothing on PI. It took a silly amount of time to get the tyres up to temp, we used so much fuel that after the second run on day two we had run out. 6x 20L cans and 60L in the tank, gone. Most others were using Martini, which was no good and guys running Surogen were out and re-tuning for Martini.

So NSW Time Attack comes around. After the madness of getting the car ready and actually getting to the event. 285/35's are very tall, so we had to massage the tubs a little. With the castor and under load there was some rubbing.

After spending a cold few hours bashing it off the ground, tunnel and boot I was over it...lol By the time someone told me about that method, the ice was gone. Heat gun did an ok job, was actually present as it was freezing outside and nice and warm in the car with the heat gun.

More than happy to. There is always room for improvement, whether that is 0.2 seconds or 2 seconds. It's just chipping away and becoming more confident, having fun also helps!

Another 7KG in the glass, nice! Rules don't allow that at the moment.

4KG in the boot lid, lock, hinges and shocks. 800G in the wiper motor. 450G in the antenna motor. Put back in 350G of bonnet pins and bracketing.

This time around NSW are using the full WTAC rule book. so back to street tyres. But! Yokohama don't have any 285 or 295's available. So the only other option was Hankooks, z222. In 285 they actually measure 295 and are huge on 18x10's. And Hankook be smoking as they are a 35 profile as well, very tall! I'm working in Sydney at this stage (the day before nsw time attack). so my brother and dad are running around getting the car ready back in melbs. i meet them in goulburn for the event.

new suit from rallynuts. OMP Dart