Projectile

Alright this is a post for anyone else who was in pain like me and needs to pass pits without changing headlights. What you do is buy H7 globes x2. Remove the factory HID globes and just cable tie the HID harness plug as far away from it as you can (its not far trust me but enough to give yourself some room) Trim the diameter down so they fit in the headlight snug, use the original wire clip to clip them into place. Now run a independent switch to control them. Unsure how to do that? here's how; Run a positive wire off the battery (7.5amp wire is what I used), throw a 7.5amp fuse in the line (important), connect to one side of the switch and place the switch wherever you want in the cabin. Now on the other side of the switch run it to the RH headlight (keeping in mind you use flat blade connectors everywhere in this), before you crimp the RH flat blade piggy back another wire off that and run that across the front tucked away under the radiator or wherever you want just so its hidden and run it over to the LH headlight. H7s need a ground wire so just unplug that yellow ground which connects the headlight to the factory HID harness into the other side of the H7 (h7s have two terminals one for ground and one for pos). Cable tie all your wires neat and MAKE SURE, infact this is important so ill highlight this part; *****TAKE YOUR OEM HEADLIGHT FUSES OUT****** they are 2x 20amp mini blade fuses in the engine fuse box, look at the diagram to figure out which ones. Don't worry about your dust caps or any of that shit just make sure all your wiring is cable tied away and the globes hold into place and aren't slopping around in there. Also make sure its not raining and you aren't driving thru dust storms the day you're going to the pits. take your car to the pits and show them how to operate the headlights (for park lights turn your headlights on like normal on the stalk on the steering wheel, your normal headlights won't come on since this is the circuit you took the fuses out of and unplugged at the headlight to begin with). Throw your normal headlights on, for high beam throw your stalk forward like normal. I just passed the pits today using this method and somehow it is better then factory HIDs according to the pits. As soon as my 4300k globes arrive this is being removed and my original system will be back up, all I need to do it put new globes in, connect using factory HID harness and then put my two 20amp fuses back in the fuse box. Before you say anything I know this whole things sounds a bit dodgy but it will get you over the pits with HID headlights without changing the whole headlight setup to halogen and not chopping your HID harness. Best of luck to everyone any questions just PM me and ill send you pics of mine or might even post em up here when I get time. Quick list of what you'll need; Crimp set containing red and blue female blade crimps. Crimpers Teeth for stripping wires basic on off switch any design try get one that goes in one of the rectangles next to your manual angle adjustment dial H7 globes (cheap ones who cares) x 2 5m of red 7.5amp wire 7.5amp fuse in line fuse holder have a go attitude. I'm out.

Righto, Now this is my first post in like forever, simply because I find out everything I need by searching, but I cannot find this, but if you know of a how to thread or anything similar please post link. What I want to know is how to change my factory fitted xenon globes out for standard halogen ones so that I can pass the pits...this is the only mod I have to change to pass. This should have been done at compliance, a part of me is thankful for this so they didn't chop the HiD harness as they usually do. I know all the usual bs, xenons must be self cleaning, auto adjusting etc so I am just going to do a temporary fix to pass the pits and then putting xenons back in (but a much whiter colour not fkn gay disco blue that the car came with). So I find myself with two options and I am hoping there is a third option which is much easier and isn't either one of these. So I figure I either buy normal headlights from a wreck or online and spend $$$ which I want to avoid because I still have to alter the wiring to make them work with halogen globes. Or just rewire globes into them from the same switch, unfortunately tho I have tried H1s and H4s for sizing, only problem is H1s are too small and fall in the headlight, H4s on the other hand are too big and do not sit properly. So what do they normally do at compliance? Someone help me i've got a headache...haha If you want pics let me know and ill go get some...

okay i would PAY for this type of thing...it's VERY nice, interesting to see how it lasts.

if you want a turbo to non-turbo, do an engine swap (or buy a non-turbo car???). SR20 non-turbo engine would be like 1500 not even, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DE-TURBO A CAR IT IS A f**kING MEGA FAIL!!!

will call tomorrow thanks

haha sorry my bad Yeah man i just want the thing painted i'm not fussed about the 'show car' job, and i'm willing to do a bit of prep but would i be like gap filling and everything too? i thought they did it as apart of their 2 week course of a full respray on a car?? thanks gazza, all i originally wanted to know.

I've tried called many times since early december but figured they closed for chrissy. I've tried again but nothing, anyone know when they go back? Also just while i'm here, anyone had experience with them? Like how you have to take the car to them? What the process is? just for interest i'll guess i'll find out after i get through to them. Ps. I know the experience question has been asked before just thought i'd through it in so please dnt be a forum nerd and have a sad because you thought i didn't 'search'. haha cheers all.

it doesnt matter if you take the turbo out, car is still registered as a turbo from the vin.

As the title asks, does anyone know if JPC is closed or open atm? There's nothing on their sites but i havent heard from them via email or phone in the past 2 weeks and i've tried to call at least a dozen times in those 2 weeks. Anyone know when they will open again if they are closed for holidays or whatever? Any information is much appreciated. PS. Because of this i am out of my 30 day warranty on an A/C compressor which is the wrong one given to me by them, all i want to do is swap it for the right one!

Thankyou, You've put my mind at rest about it being a auto converted to manual, glad it's factory manual at least haha.

haha good to know i'm not the only one

ECR33-014444 I got a feeling my car is a dodgy piece of shit... **Edit** Not sure about the rest of the details so i'll put them all down as they are Blue plate Left to right, Up to down as they are on the plate. Something. E-ECR33 Chassis No. ECR33-014444 Model. GGKBRTFR33EDA---D- Paint 1N3 Engine Rb25DE Something else. FS5W71C RC43 Green Plate (Compliance) Nissan KT Skyline R33 2DR 1993. ViN 6T91MPTECPYABG067 Any ideas about the 'KT'? Also if anyone is immature like me please take note that my Vin has '6T9' haha yay lol

here's my checkbook, write down any amount you like....haha i actually LOVEEEE this car!!!

so did this ever get done? any feedback about the tafe?

use one from the forum, iron chef, import moster etc...

okay guys last chance to get digital shots that are good quality or gloss prints if you say please, as i start heavy study and all the rest of the TEE crap next week so i dont want to be messing around with photos then, as i've said before, go to mediafire and tell me which photos you want and i'll upload a .rar with all the originals in it to mediafire. nobody has reported any problems with this site so i'm guessing it is working for everybody. invasion, your gloss prints are waiting so we'll meet up over the weekend.

hmm ill have a word to them today when i drop it in and let them know cheers guys

i know it is under the timing belt cover for sure because when i start the car and put my hand on the casing of the timing belt it is making the noise and vibrating to an extent, more like a rubbing noise but still whining, nothing from the belts or compressor. The date of the 'major service' which included timing belt and water pump at 106420km was done 10/04/2006, so 3+ years ago... this was done before i owned the car. The spark plugs were changed then along with bunch of other things. This is the 100,000km service yeah? The belt was later found to be noisey and once looked into was found to be too tight, doesn't say if it was fixed or what happened. I think because it is 3+ years ago i should be spending the cash and getting it done now to save the hassle. My mate has guaranteed the noise will be gone and this will also include at idle, first switched on and running. Also it's getting a general service and a full engine bay clean to make it look prettier. haha. Going in on thursday... Anyone disagree? Please i want to hear it if you have a good reason Cheers all.

hmm might be worth just getting it done...

yeah well the only difference is i don't get a auto masters reciept, i only get parts reciepts for warrenty and yarda yarda. Know much about this problem though? Do you know if it is even a problem or just a common noise which doesn't hurt anything? The whining coming from the timing belt cover at the top in front of the cams.

Hey guys, My Timing belt is making a whining noise and i want to know if it is something to worry about? It's sitting at ~140,000km now and has had the noise since when i first got it ~126,000km. I have proof of the 100,000km major service done at Giant Nissan in Wangara (Perth) so i know it wasn't just said by the previous owner. The noise only occurs within the first ~20 seconds of starting the car and i haven't noticed it at any other times. I took it to my mate today at auto masters who quoted me $800 cash job to service it and do a 'rebuild' to an extent on the timing belt which meant all new seals and bearings and belt etc... which he said cost ~$300 for the 'timing belt kit' and then the water pump ~$100, a Full service on it (oil filter, oil etc...) and the labour, he was confident it would get rid of the noise and was worried that it might give at any moment because he cannot see the belts without taking the cover off and all that... Does anyone get this noise? Is it something i should be getting fixed or a common problem not to worry about? I know that if the belt snaps or slips my piston will smash the valves and cause a few grand in damage, correct? Cheers all, Jacob.

i gotta agree with you wacky, if they are 'highly recommended' and all that wank and they do a shit job simply because they think they are tip top suspension shop and that their job is the right job, not what YOU want and what YOU pay for then they're a bunch of dickheads, if i was you i'd be pissed too. what's with places these days? Still there are some small businesses who do a better job because it's their passion, not their job, were these places big businesses?

got a link handy at all?

i think what is happening is that when i put my wheel on it was out by like 2 teeth (only slightly crooked) and the hicas thinks that i'm constantly doing circles like the thread said. I think i'm gna just take it out in about 2 weeks and replace it with a lock bar because i've had a wheel alignment and my steering wheel is straight now. so if i took it off i'm not sure exactly how crooked i'd have to put it back on....hmm thanks moodles. if anyone else has opinions let me know do you think the lock bar is the way to go?

Now before you ask, yes i've done a search and i did find some helpful information about HICAS but i would like some opinions from you guys about my individual case... Here's my case; I've got a S1 R33, A while back i changed my wheel and was told it was a hicas boss kit, all second hand from JAP Parts Plus WA (Registered Trader). Now i'm not saying they didn't sell me the right stuff but what i am saying is that this wheel is obviously causing problems with the hicas since i never saw the light before i installed it. The wheel that came off my car had 2 holes in the back, one rectangular and one square from memory, the boss kit i got now has 4 holes, 2 squares + 2 rectangles (from memory). Firstly, is this okay for the new boss kit to have different amount of holes? or should i be worried? They don't seem to do anything...:S Secondly, i plan on taking the HICAS out and putting a lock bar in, then removing the dash light and not touching anything else. I've heard of power steering problems, do you think i'll have any problems if i do it this way? Would you recommend this as a painfree alternative? And thirdly is a wheel alignment nessassary? (Currently i'm thinking, yes it is) Thanks in advance, i want you're opinion on all this! Jacob.