badhairdave

Can't find the pm button?!? Anyway, dash is out and car is ready to go when ever you want it now, Brad.

yeah, it's completely stripped. Would just need to pull out the seats.

Id be interested in an s13 bolt in rear half. It's been on my mind for a while now.

Thats even more drug money gone! I'd just do a heap of speed and lose 10kg's. More fun

so you decided to get the radical?

Put me down as a non believer. But interested in results none the less.

looks fine. As you said, no PS fluid so the seals are ok. It's probably just gotten some grease on it from something else

camber as stated by warps. But the other stuff mentioned is relevant too.

Get the diff installed, it'll fix the inside wheel spinning issue. Then you can set your sway bars correctly so you don't have to put up with the understeer resulting from your current compromised settings Then get semis all round if you still feel the need. The problem with going an r compound on the front only is that for a few laps it'll be great and then the rears will start to over heat and lose traction and before you know it you will be backing it off the track when the rear suddenly lets go at turn in.You will be faster for a couple of laps though. You're also going to destroy the semis as you won't have the right wheel alignment, plus the inherent understeer issue, so it'll chew up the outside of the tyre in no time. 1000 bucks worth of semis might last you 3-4 days.

I almost have, i used to have 595 rs's on the skyline for street tyres and re55's for track. There was a couple of seconds in it around wakefield on the same day. Don't know that there is a significant difference between the old rs and the new rsr.

Whether it was fluke or not the supra just seemed to work well on the kumhos. It was punching well above its weight when you were out at ec a couple of years back. R888's are rubbish. I wasn't a fan and am happy to be back on re55's. That said, your 180 is still very taily from what i'm seeing and i don't think it's down to the way you drive it. whether it's springs/bars/camber/tyre pressure/roll centre i don't know.

Looks like you can get another 20-30mm of tread under it at each end easily. More corner fasts

lol. love it. I reckon the way it's ramping onto boost it'd make 1.6 at 3600 anyway. What boost control are you running out of interest and what spring pressure in the gates. My old rb25/t300s combo liked to slowly drop boost in a similar way which i put down to the 7psi spring in the gate.

I have a solid in my s13 with no power steering. Any rack rattle, brake shudder, ripple strip hits all gets transferred straight into my hands It's not a mod i'd do in anything street driven.

Have you corrected the tacho? If not it definitely is the cluster. Your ear tacho may be faulty SR diff is 4.1, the car will be cruising at about 3k. your tacho is reading 50% high becasue of the extra ignition pulse per rotation of the engine so showing 4500. I've seen it more times than i can remember. simple test. bang it off the limiter. factory rb25 limiter is around 6850 from memory, so with an sr tacho you'll be showing well off the scale (around 9.5k)

600k coilovers for 89k? Whats wrong with them?

Yeah, you might stub your toe

I was still considerably faster on thrashed re55's than i was on fed 595rs's. Unless you have AO48's, then yes, all rounders will be faster if the semis have been heat cycled a fair bit. The kumho semis would be the pick of the cheap ones but you are still looking at 1300ish. Personally i'll never bother with r888's again, they are around the same price. On the toe arms front, I've seen 2 isc arms snap at welds. I wouldn't use them, or anything cheaper for that matter. I use D project camber and toe arms in my track car, cheapish and the quality is ok. They seem to be holding up too, plus replacement rose joints are available. Camber arms are about 3 years old now with many track days and toe arms have survived 7 or 8 track days.

remove caliper, remove rotor. The 36mm nut just holds in the driveshaft and does not need to be removed

What braid are you running? Regular rubber stuff will need protection if it's running very close to manifolds as it's only 130 degree resistant. Just get a hi temp sheath for it http://www.mscn.com.au/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=495 Teflon stuff is more resistant and you will have no issue with it in 99% of applications (as long as it isn't directly resting on anything) as it's rated over 230 degrees. costs more, but not much more than regular braid and a sheath.

Same, lt8 in an FC. Except mine never ran right

d) hard to work on e) rear heavy (snap oversteery) f) constant under performers which means g) shit track cars After i cant remember how many years of track days i'm still waiting to see a fast one. I was really put off a couple of years back when a few mr2's came along to an autosports day i attended and all of them ended the day coated in mud and dirt from the arse end coming around on them constantly

Take the clutch out, take it down to your local brake and clutch specialist along with the flywheel. Ask for a reco/skim on the pressure plate and flywheel, new friction plate (organic/cushioned ceramic/button/whatever), new thrust bearing. Shouldn't cost more than 300 bucks if nothing is broken. edit: If you really want to be tight just get a new friction plate and thrust bearing and throw them in. Probably less than 150

It's an ugly POS but it was cheap, complied and it's pretty fast, even by turbo standards It was unregistered but really would have just needed a good clean and a pea shooter exhaust to get through a blue slip Cost me 6500, threw in maybe 1.5k worth of bits off my skyline and 1500 worth of tyres Did 1:09's at wakefield 1:22 flat at OP GP 1:54.5 at my first outing ever at EC with whatever alignment was on it when i bought it and nowhere near enough camber. Quads are the last thing you need. big f**k off cams are the first And i forgot to mention reliable as hell. Fuel it, track it, park it until the next one.

On the rear arm, you obviously have no issue with the bent arm from an alignment point of view so it must adjust up ok, but once an arm is bent it will only get worse. You might get away with it for a few months, a pothole might banana it tomorrow. I'd replace it. The caster rods should be the same length. But if the car is actually aligned straight (even caster) you have no issue. It may already have an adjustable bush i it?