badhairdave

how do you guys go for space when using these things? I suppose you have an advantage in a 32 as it has adjustable reach so you can play a bit but in the s13 which doesn't i'd end up with the steering wheel in my face once i add 3 inches of quick release.

love the plates

For company owned vehicles they can pick pretty much anyone provided they are un paid from my understanding (not that there'd be a record of cashies....). There's a bit more in the rule i quoted but it wasn't really relevant to a private owner getting in a gun driver so didn't bother.

Wouldn't that bump it straight into open though? • All vehicles must have current registration and be driven by the owner of the vehicle. If in the case of company owned vehicles, must produce a written letter from the director of the company showing approval to race the vehicle. If he hasn't read the rules he's in for a rude shock come race day

Sif! I want people to hear my subs before they see my car!

my factory 25 with 288rwkw loved the track. 12 or so days before the cars untimely meeting with a wall. I just overfilled the oil and drove it, revved it to 7600. best of 1:07.9 at wakefield so not slow.

Yes, I've fitted a bigger turbo that that in there. You need to mod the power steering return lines, the compressor should clear the engine mount, though you may need to give it a tap with a mallet, it'll be the metal tab on the rubber part of the mount that gets in the way. Just chop that off.

Similar question raised on another forum Which it is...it was built by a mate who worked for one of the v8super car teams. We used the exact same materials as what he normally uses on their cages.

Lower control arm, i have a 33gtst RHS one, plus stock rears Castor Rod, nope Swaybar mount, nope Tie Rod, nope Castor Rod Brackets Pair, nope

And a bit of video. Sound is pretty crap due to wind noise. Probably the most interesting vid i have of the day, no particularly fast corners, just a bit of fast in a straight line.

How not to take shell corner in the old skyline 3 wheeling One from cassbo with me way off line (again) I have some vid of the first outing of the s13 in turbo form. It's pretty crap but i'll shorten it up a bit and post it.

Bastards! I should have waited an extra couple of months...

I got my last set of re55's in that size for 365 plus 15 delivery. Not too far off and the cheapest i've seen them in 3 years They were aus stock shipped direct from bridgestone too.

It's the heat cycling that rates them lower for me. They are fine at the start of their life but rubbish after a few days where as the r888 is slower but more consistent for it's life. Yeah, all the a050 feedback i've seen is positive.

I wouldn't say hopeless, but they are definitely in the bottom 2 (AO48's in MH being worse imho).

depends on where the next corner is and what you need to do to get through that one fast. It works for some drivers, some cars and some corners and not for others.

Nah, we're all talk

I disagree. You make time at EC by maintaining high corner speeds. Power only helps on the main and back straights and gathering speed out of a couple of slower corners (assuming you can put it down cleanly). High power on it's own is useless at EC

yeah, but r888's are proper semis with tread wear well below that and caused no issue. This is in a fully stripped sub 1T s13 making 285rwkw, so bugger all weight over the rear wheels. My tuner has never cared what tyres i turn up with, other than pointing out that the semis would affect the peak power, or complaining when they are covered with gravel and he has to clean them off... It's all about strapping the car properly.

My track car got tuned with r888's, the old skyline was done with rt215's. It apparently causes a few kw loss on the peak figure but there was no issue with using them for the tune

If you want to run 1 set of tyres for street and track then you can't really go past the ku36 for both price and performance. They aren't a proper semi so you will not achieve the same times as you would with an re55 but they don't suffer as much with heat cycling and don't wear as fast.

No, 8/6 is too stiff. Been there, done that. i'd be looking at around 6-7 front and 4-5 rear max. The higher rates would work ok with semis on a track. The lower rates are more appropriate for hills driving. it's a compromise. Get some sway bars sooner rather than later. Just a comment on the current setup. Make sure you don't have the rebound adjustment on the konis too high. It makes the car act like it has more spring and may contribute to your lack of rear traction. Konis typically have a bit over 2.5 turns of rebound adjustment. If you go past 2 turns the rebound goes through the roof. You want it somewhere between 1-2 turns.

sr20 With the engine apart it'll be a good opportunity to skim the head for some more compression and maybe look at some cams and springs.

16 or so. mine has 15 laps of OP under it's belt at 285ish so i expect a bang next time i cross a start/finish line

The shell and most parts are gone. Off the top of my head all thats left are the tail lights, a starter motor, a couple of ignitors and an alternator