badhairdave

Momo race 320mm steering wheel, no boss, comes with centre (not shown) $120 http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb250/b...20122009138.jpg RB20/26 and rb25 ignitors $70 each http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb250/b...20122009136.jpg sr Fidanza cam gear, new unused, some surface oxidation on the steel from sitting around for ages $150 http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb250/b...20122009134.jpg Drift shop poly gearbox mount, suit s13/r32 plus probably a heap of other nissans, new, $80 http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb250/b...20122009135.jpg s13 SR manual abs tailshaft $100 http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb250/b...20122009139.jpg Alloy subframe collars, used, no idea of brand but probably jap as they came on an imported car before the china stuff became available. Used in my skyline and were a really good fit $70 http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb250/b...20122009140.jpg r32 gtst front guards $40 each. passenger side has a slight kink where the tyre hit it http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb250/b...ve/DSC00289.jpg http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb250/b...ve/DSC00290.jpg r32 tail lights $40 each 6 bolt s13 drive shafts $100 the pair All parts in Campbelltown nsw, prefer pick up but can post at buyers expense Contact via pm

if you are happy that they are still gripping then keep going. They will be a bit hairy in the wet with low tread but i found they still performed really well when they were on the markers.

If you have wheel ramps then that'll do it. Or i just use my axle stands on the highest setting on the front of the chassis rails

Pull it out as a unit. Cefiro's have a nice long engine bay. Get the front of the car up high and hook the chains back around cylinder 4/5 so you can angle the engine back as you lift it easily and then lift the back of the box easily too.

Where in the rev range is it pinging and at what sort of load? 1) does your ecu have timing correction vs air temp? Have you thought about pulling a bit of timing out of it? A good tune needs to be safe in all situations so a touch up isn't out of the question and audible detonation means there's a fair bit there. 2) fan on the smic triggered by a temp sensor as a maintenance free solution though the fan will block some airflow once you are moving 3) water spray, again triggered by a temp switch. Would just require occasional checks/top up when you get petrol.

Thats the best way to get to both top bolts, though i generally don't bother with loosening the engine mounts as they have a fair bit of flex in them You'd struggle to get the leverage to crack the bolts otherwise, particularly if it's the first time the box has been off.

Nah, they are gone. I do have some r888's in 235/45-17 in similar condition that i'll be getting rid of shortly. 1 or 2 days life left in them at best.

how are you finding the performance of the a050's as they age, Marlin? Are they better than the old a048?

yeah, not great value if your in a street class, better off going to open days. But for a workshop car the coverage is probably well worth the entry fee.

Also old and busted. Still not 100% what i want to do next year. Hello kitty needs a few tweaks and some maintenance before it goes out again. I suspect part of next year will be sorting suspension and alignment to suit the new power and then i can start chasing times again. The new thing will hopefully be drivable early next year and it will get some basic tweaks and just get driven for a bit of fun, maybe a deca or something and some MDTC days.

it never wears off! I bought a second one for a streeter.....

1) 81 GH sigma. Only a 2Lt but it got a 5 speed and better diff ratio than the 2.6 4 speed versions, plus with the rebuild it got at 100k to fix the dead rings it went almost as well as a 2.6 too 2) S4 RX7 Sport bought for 8.8k. Basically An NA with turbo brakes, no power options and terrible wheels. It got an s4 turbo engine dropped in it after a year as the NA died. Spent 4k on the engine swap, another 7k or so in maintenance (the entire drive line was eventually replaced) and about 700 bucks on an exhaust.... 3) 32 GTSt. Ended up with an rb25 in it. This is the point where mods started to get the better of me. Must have spent close to 40k on it over the years going through different suspension and wheels and turbo kits. Ended up putting it into a wall at Wakefield Park. 4) (current) unregistered S13 track car, bought NA, now turbo 5) (current) registered S13 rolling shell, it'll get the track cars old NA engine.

99% certain you couldn't do it under stock guards that that much rubber. With less tyre i think you might get away with it with a bit of a flare on the fronts.

They will fit fairly easily, even with that much tyre. front will have a sunken battle ship look, rear will probably need a slight touch with a guard roller to clear the rubber. My only concern on the front would be clearance to the suspension, but as there's so much room to play with due to the guards you could easily space them out. I have 17x9 +25's with 235/45-17 re55's which sit square on the rim on the front of mine in this photo, heaps of clearance

i think i know what happened. The car cracked the sads and decided to try and throw the tail lights off Pretty lucky that you ended up straight before hitting the sand

looks like you have the rear suspension a bit better sorted now at least. There seemed to be a lot less oversteer in that vid.

Faster, yes. Better, no chance. Just the unpredictability of chucking the car into a corner not knowing whether it was going to stick made it very interesting. The only problem was most people were too scared to run such a crap tyre for some strange reason...

pick a crap tyre if you want a challenge! A few mates and i did the nankang challenge a couple of years ago. It was bad....

I wasn't a huge fan of my 888's as I initially experienced what harry is talking about. I eventually found they like a lot more camber than the 3.5 and 1.5 i was running. I ended up with about 5 degrees front and 2 or so rear to get them working well. I will be grabbing some kumhos for the street/occasional track car early next year.

leave it alone then mate. I think you are being overcautious by trying to richen it up. I generally just leave the injector correction a couple of % on the low side so it gets a bit of extra fuel that way.

have you selected the z32 afm? Personally i'd just do that and leave the injector correction alone as on cruise the closed loop will get the mixtures right enough for you to drive it. Just keep it off boost and you'll be fine.

I use a bonnet pin at the leading edge and a couple of clips at the rear. Can't find a pic at the moment but similar idea to the ones in the link, just a lot smaller and neater and all stainless.

If my car wasn't so loud the bearing noise from the box would worry me.... Whats a mild rebuild? If it still goes into gear i would say it's fully functional

why are you building it? Just get a bigger turbo, jam more boost into it and keep the timing safe and it'll make 300+, rev to 8k and last forever.

Wire should not be needed until you have a 250k old rb20 thats been flogged near to death. The dipstick issue has nothing to do with your breather setup. You've plumbed it up as you would a normal open to atmo catch can on the normal breathers so it isn't seeing pressurised air at all. I think your engine builder has some serious questions to answer. I'd certainly want a proper answer and admission of some accountability if it were my engine. Scored bore? What caused that?