badhairdave

i've seen s13 toe arms snap during normal usage (though it was on a car that does see track work). Not one arm, but 2 on the same car and both during daily driving. I've also seen a few pics of camber arms with cracked welds though don't know about the usage or back story there.

Possibly, but as i said, there is enough ambiguity there that i'd check. I don't, for example, skim over something if i don't understand it, i ask someone who can read the language. You've read only what you wanted to see. I can see that there are bits in the description you've chosen to ignore. You're going to put money down with a 100% guarantee that you won't get it back. Make sure it's all good before you do. Don't blame the broker for your error. Don't sulk when he gets offended because you've tried to.

Headlight (singular) is mentioned twice in the first line. It doesn't say headlights as you have stated in your email to nengun. It even says in there it's for the right side only and it looks cheap as the photo implies that it's a pair (plural). Yes google is a pretty basic translator but just those few comments would make me inclined to at least double check. Maybe i am just used to google translator after a couple of years of using it. I'd be cranky too if i got sent an email saying my service was misleading.

Lol at the name. Remarkably similar to a Chinese city.... I have only ever seen cheap arms actually snap at welds. They usually just flog out the ball joint really quickly and need to be replaced.

Ahh ffs! Why did you swap the gasket anyway?

Your coil overs are worth more than my car....

Hang on, lets just clarify: Your now claiming the A1RM is a street/light track pad (with a temp rating of 0-780 degrees?) and anything with a sky high rating is just a pissing contest between manufacturers? And that rotors shouldn't go over 723 degrees anyway? "So... what's the point of a friction material that's "rated" higher than that?" I hear you say...hmm, better re assess that 780 degree rated street pad i was considering. You recommend these pads for just about everything yet you never give a straight answer when someone has an issue. You answer with positive spin. I'm actually genuinely interested to know the reason for the rapid wear some people are experiencing. I'm also interested to know, in general terms, how many track days people are getting out of a set so i can determine if they actually are a bargain, or if they are buying 3 sets to every 1 of a more expensive pad. Russman, I'm interested in your feedback

Shit! Their price has certainly dropped since i last looked.

Local suppliers are currently listing lower prices than yahoo for a change. Dunno if it just hasn't been updated or they bought bulk stock during the 100Y-$ times. http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/pad_hcplus.php http://hioctaneracing.com.au/eshop/product...roducts_id=1145

You've done nothing wrong. If you don't have a light/low powered car they really aren't up to the task, particularly on a track with reasonably big stops like winton. I would look at something with a higher temp rating that is more targeted towards track work. The comment about switching pads for street/track is bullshit btw. Project Mu HC+ are about the best street/track pad you will find. They aren't the nicest things on the street (they will squeel at low speed and light brake applications and they don't feel great when cold but still pull you up ok) but you will not overheat them on the track and they will last a lot of track days. As a bonus they give a lot of feed back and feel pretty good too. I've seen comments about excessively high rotor wear but haven't seen it on stock nissan rotors (on a mates car) or on my SCR pro's. I got 8 full days out of my last set of HC+ pads with about a years street driving before that. My mate has probably done more than 8 days on his by now. Neither of us are particularly slow.

if it's what's shown in the pictures it's not a 3076 either. It's got the wrong compressor and housing

Timing checked, exhaust at zero. Basically identical engine side to my setup, i found about 30rwkw with the addition of 256/264 with the old t300s as it liked the lower boost pressure higher flow scenario. similar power output too at similar pressure. The 2835 obviously didn't benefit as much with it's smaller more modern wheels. Can't remember if there was a significant midrange gain.

Keep the stock ones in it. With the same turbo a mate made a peak of 269rwkw without cams, and 271 with....

The 256 inlet for rb25det does. Pretty sure it's the only one re vct control, just get your self a separate rpm based trigger so it'll be on at idle and switch off at your designated change over point or if you really want to be fancy get a window switch for full factory style operation so it's off up to 1050-1100 and then back on up to the change over point.

Yeah, they are a nice bit of gear, dunno if the flange would get in the way in this application though.

Try the welding method mentioned above first. If it's bottomed out though you won't get the thing out, it'll tear the weld. Just dont snap off an easy out in there or you are stuck with the erosion method. If that fails then drill it out and helicoil it.

if it's still the original stainless manifold it isn't going to be an easy job to get it split properly. Its one with around 80mm of steel sheet between the merged runners and the flange so probably more dollars in custom work than it's worth. You'd basically have to remake half the manifold. Even with a 6 boost or etm you'd have to chop off the merge collector and redo a fair chunk of manifold to get a decent result.

I did a quick search last night as i have a new car coming up for rego, QBE was the best of the rest at $480...currently uninsured as it has a bung engine Is it true that you get cheaper rates if you have fully comp insurance? I was always paying around the 300-320 mark with the skyline through AAMI who are now really expensive. Haven't owned a registered car for over a year though so price rise wouldn't surprise me.

I don't have a pic but the main difference between the 20 and 25 det IAC valves is the 20 only has the 1 plug and solenoid to control idle where as the 25 has the second solenoid for idle step up with AC. They are very similar lay out wise other than that. AAC valves are the same between the 2 models, maybe a different plug. I blocked off the AAC on an rb20 years ago after a hose to it split and i refused to pay the $50 plus asking price from nissan for a replacement. In terms of cold start and drivability the car was fine other than it used to stall on return to idle at the same spot every morning. It would only happen in the first couple of minutes of driving. This was still stock ecu long before i swapped to a 25 and pfc. I reckon with a tunable ecu you could have tuned that issue out. My s13 had all the cold start stuff removed from the throttle body when i got it and it cold started and ran better than my skyline ever did, even with the big cams and light flywheel. Both with PFC.

I'd be interested to know whether one or the other would have an advantage in the real world. If i had the money i'd probably lean towards a stroker from the (misguided?) view that the valve train would limit revs anyway so having the longer stroke would give better off boost torque. That and i thought the s14 was the shit back in 06-07. It's possible it could get there, There is certainly more in it on 98 octane but due to sparks breaking down and boost controller not liking running at a really high duty (i had a softish spring in the wastegate for the initial tune) i didn't get to see it. Though the delivery with the stroker engine would be different in the bottom half of the rev range, probably a lot more linear like the rb25 with the same turbo in that regard. Price wise: Turbo 2200 (it's been a while but i think thats what it cost me) manifold 500 44mm flange and mods to manifold 150 gate 400 s/h lines and sheathing 430 (teflon water, braided oil return with sheath,) I already had the oil feed cams 690 greddy springs 100 s/h unused so $3680 for the basics ($4470 inc cams and springs) I also paid for the springs and cams to be installed which was 550 if you want to factor it in You could probably save money on the lines and get the turbo cheaper by buying online, though if i were to do it again i'd spend more on a steam pipe manifold for piece of mind as it'll only work out a few hundred more in the scheme of things.

Did he recommend the stroker or the big bore? Any reason for going either way?

omg was the guy i talked to early on in the planning stages of mine. The 315 was on c16 but the peak figure on it's own honestly didn't do the thing justice. It was just unfortunate that it kept smashing boxes and drive shafts.

It could be but you'd have to do some minor rewiring. No loom included.

Got dyno sheet? Thats very impressive. Mines only just starting to climb past 100 at that point Better than factory power at half the revs

Out of interest, what have you put together lately disco?