badhairdave

pretty much everything is gone except for the tail lights and the front guards. I have a few random bits left over like starter motor, a couple of alternators, ac compressor but all the main stuff is long gone.

Please don't compare evos and silvias, it's insulting to those of us who can steer and modulate the throttle and brake..... I'd be going a 3076 on your car phunky. Possibly look at reducing the duration on the cams while keeping high lift to promote better low-mid range as you have the big valves already to keep the top end flow. Go the TS housing and manifold if you feel that way inclined, on the plus side it'll soften the torque hit as the turbo gets going (though the 2.2 will do that a bit anyway by bringing it on in a more linear way) and make it a bit easier to drive out of corners.

I haven't built one myself but factory weight is around 1050 so a basic strip will get you down to the 950 mark. I wouldn't be surprised to see it down around 900.

Fast through corners, slow on straights. But still fast enough to ruffle a few feathers at track days 950 is still on the heavy side for a levin isn't it? Can i suggest making it obnoxiously loud. That was half the fun of my car when it was NA.

I used 2 of these mounted in the centre console http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;SUBCATID=401 They are 10 amp rated so i probably could have gotten away with just wiring the window motor direct off the switch but decided to make a new circuit out of 2 5 pin relays for each side to be on the safe side.

I can't bring myself to work on the car unless i'm half cut....it shows. Though i think guard rolling requires you to be a little pissed to proceed or you'd never get anywhere.

Thats pretty quick considering the conditions. Was this the Production car or the shoestring one?

Everyone seems to have the same gripe. Personally i think you can see fairly early on the straight whether someone is pulling out and brake/keep left without browning your pants. You're high enough up in a street car that you can look down at the staging area as you crest the hill on the straight and see whether anyone is in the process of driving out rather than waiting until you see them pop out past the wall while you are fully commited. In defence of the pit guys, some people go out pretty hot, some dawdle, some don't go straight away when they are waved out. On a busy day it's the difference between coming out in a gap and coming out in traffic. I agree on the xt racing timers accuracy at OP. Mine is pretty spot on at OP and about .2 faster at WP

contact kings direct, the link you provided says they have springs to suit other models that aren't listed.

I haven't seen an off the shelf one for an r32 rb20 box, though the nismo r34 one does have an s in it if you have a 25 box in the car.

Can't say i've seen 3k worth of cage increase the value of the car by 3k either. The increase would be marginal. Not saying weld in's don't have their place as there are category's where i wouldn't drive without a comprehensive cage, but for the 90 odd percent of people here who track their daily it's a big commitment, and one that can make their car unregisterable at that.

It'll be fine until your first clutch drop I ran a 20det box behind my 25 for a couple of years with no issue. It bolts up and saves a heap of hassle with crossmembers and tail shaft mods. As you said, there's bugger all difference between the de and det boxes

It just confirms what i always suspected Luke Youldon is soft...

bkr7es or bcpr7es. Get the std electrode, not the v groove as you can start to have spark break down at higher boost. Can't say i've ever seen a v groove bcpr skit_31, though for the sake of argument you may want to look at the post above my previous one from a guy who has bought some and stated they have a V, and i have always bought bcpr6/7es's and they have always been standard electrode. You can argue the vernacular on the copper vs nickel if you want, I'm not particularly fussed either way. When people say copper they are talking about regular old plugs

yes, assuming both are abs or non abs, but you'll need the half shafts. why you'd want to put an r180 into an r32 which already has an r200 i don't know. No, r200 centre will not fit r180 housing. the diff centre will fit the r32gtst housing and gears as they are both r200s

Give hornibrook tyres a call and see if they can get your size. I recently picked up some new re55's for 380 a corner inc shipping, which isn't far off the 340 i paid for r888's at taleb last time. I'm not sure if the pricing was specific to the size i bought but it's worth a shot regardless.

Thanks mate, though i think it's well below the potential of the thing small duration reasonable lift cams and springs but otherwise stock Oh and some good news: Looks like OP will be open for an extra month

Second time out at OP GP, new engine and box, no other changes Engine: s15 SR20DET with 3071 Power: 270rwkw @ 16psi (not running it at 285 until i get a better handle on the car) new pb of 1:21.79 (bit slower than i would have liked considering the lack of opportunity to better it) Need to relearn throttle control and get my corner speed back up to where it was with the NA. Happy about the lack of major issues with the new setup

for what ever reason when you are turning left fairly hard you move both hands together on the wheel which is not ideal. It's funny because you are fine going the other way. Marlin may have it though, you could be unconsciously hanging on. I used to brace myself on the handbrake on the slippery dip at wakefield and drive 1 handed before getting a better seat

fronts, you brake (well 90% anyway) and turn with the front. Personally i would just get a decent street tyre on there. Having a semi on the front with a regular road tyre on the back is asking for trouble as you will be able to chuck it into a corner pretty quick but won't have the rear end grip to keep it all together. Corner entry oversteer would have to be one of the slowest ways around a track as well.

My current car was an NA!

Get an NA you pair of softies!

Boost mostly. It's pretty close to what a mate got with the same turbo a few years back on similar boost. I think you are about 10rwkw down on his result. The 2540's aren't a great turbo but should still make 240ish when you start pushing. You're at the point where it should start making good gains as you add boost, but your injectors will be on the limit.

Turbo is a 3071 with the gt30 wheel, .63 housing on a JJR manifold thats been modded to run a 44mm tial. I've got unigroup spec'd camtechs in mine which are 255 11.5 in and 260 12 ex with vct. The lobe centre on the exhaust is moved in relation to stock (i'd guess slightly retarded) but yavuz is keeping the details close to his chest. I have a gear on the exhaust but didn't play with it as spark was breaking down. I have trust valve springs though yavuz has run these cams with stock springs. Mine were $690 new. Otherwise, the usual supporting mods. The hks 264/264 cams give good results on small turbos with no vct though if you want a more informed opinion and don't mind a chat than i'd get in touch with unigroup about a set. Obviously when you don't have vct your overlap is fixed so you need to decide if you want to compromise the top end or the bottom with your cam choice. I'd be thinking somewhere around the 260 11.5 in/ex would be a good compromise. Is that busky's result you posted juggernaut? I thought he had a 10cm? It had (has?) surge issues as it ramps onto boost

Thanks mate, I figured that would be the answer i got but just wanted to check. It's on the list, unfortunately it is a very long one to get the car track ready for thursday let alone compliant to cams specs. I'll see how i go.