badhairdave

yep, I still have the stock rear bar. 60 pick up from campbelltown

I really think engine longevity is more to do with the original condition when you start, combined with good tuning, good servicing, temperature management and a little bit of mechanical sympathy. My stock bottom end rb25 copped a flogging, did about 10 track days and many skidpans with between 260 and 288rwkw, got revved to 7400 and rarely saw less than 1.3bar. As with phunky's sr it was compression tested before removal from the car and was within 3psi across all cylinders. I plan on further testing my theory by sticking a 3071 on the side of a low km s15 sr20 and stuffing some boost into it with the intention of around 260-270rwkw. We'll see if the engine dies before the box breaks

ah NS, so many amusing threads. nothing against rb20's in general but i'm still stumped as to why people remove a perfectly good sr to chuck in an extra 100kgs over the nose with the same sort of power and all the cooling, installation and wiring issues that go with it....

If it's a street car I don't think you'll have an issue with it being that close as there's nothing to melt in the area. However, if you plan to track it some form of heat sheild is worth doing, whether you modify the stock ones or make some new ones out of sheet metal or that acl stuff you can get from supercheap. Thermal management is a major consideration for track work as you are generating lots of heat for reasonably long periods of time and it will just soak into surrounding bits of metal and ultimately attack anything perishable (rubber/silicone etc).

piston size in the front sumitomo calipers is the same so no issues with retaining the r33gtst master and swapping the fronts to r34gtt. I ran the stock master and rears on my r32 with r34 fronts and it worked fine. I'm pretty sure the r32gtst has a bm44 as well, it was the gtr that got the bm50 I don't know about the s14 lines. I'd assume they'd fit with some minor bending of the hard line as the s14 got a cast iron version of the 4 pot caliper.

$40 pick up for the starter. I'd have to work out postage as they're heavy things.

You're supposed to cut them.

sorry mate, they're gone.

sorry mate, both are gone

what does your wheel and tyre placard say? As part of compliance one has to be added, whether it's in the passenger door opening or the glove box. That will tell you the maximum wheel and tyre size fitted to your car, then you are limited by the restrictions on increases in size given on the rta website. My r32 gtst's tyre placard had up to 17x9's on it as that was the wheel size fitted to the v spec gtr's.

Sorry mate, mine is as good as sold. cheers Dave

I can do the line that runs to the junction box. the fronts were cut during stripping of the car. Personally i wouldn't use the line as it's been open to the weather for 6 months and is corroded. Sorry, dont have a complete one Yep, happy to as i chopped the stock lines the other day when tidying up as i couldn't be stuffed storing the whole thing. sending pm now cheers Dave

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...-B-t267106.html remaining parts are in this thread cheers Dave

old account is dead sorry, castor rods are sold, gtr guard is sold I still have gtst guards cheers Dave

if you are going with 235 semis all round then it's worth getting the same width rim all round for rotation, preferably an 8.5 or 9 inch width. The previous owner of my s13 ran 235's all round on 17x8.5 +30's with stock guards. The car sits at stock height. I currently run 235/45 r888's on 17x9+25's all round. The rear was fine (but i gave them a lip anyway) the front needed a bit of guard work initially but once i added in more front camber i reckon it would be a pretty close thing with stock guards. 4 stud makes it hard. You can pretty much grab any 30 odd offset in a 5 stud jap rim and it will clear the calipers. In the pic the fronts have s14 lower control arms and i've added a 5mm spacer on the front wheels to give more clearance to the strut for when the tyre flexes. So the front is effectively a 17x9 +20. The guards are pulled out as far as i could get them with a roller.

Thanks guys, that's a bit of a relief. Good to know that i'll only lose a few laps to get them sorted.

Hi guys, Up until recently i've had a street/track car and i've been able to bed new pads in on the street prior to going to the track. With the move to a track only unregistered car i am wondering how to go about it at the track, in particular do i need to let the thing sit so the brakes can fully cool after the initial bedding? I will more than likely be going with hawk HT10's if it makes a difference. cheers, Dave

differences in the hand brake assembly to suit different cable ends between models but otherwise identical

The software upgrade isn't available yet though is it? It'll be a good thing when it is but as i have a 2 gig card now it's easier to just grab a second one for 20 bucks

Wakefield Park No changes to setup rear tyres shot so had to be a little tentative in a few places best of 1:09.87 natsoft

i picked one up on friday and had a play on saturday with it at Wakefield. It wasn't too happy mounted on the rear parcel shelf due mainly to the light difference from inside to outside so i'll be mounting it to the dash for future events. I did a couple of sessions with it stuck to the drivers rear 1/4 window and they came up ok. bit of a slow session here 1:10s-1:11s at best with the camera on the 1/4. bit cranky i didn't get my last session with the 1:09 as i had to copy everything off the sd card and it took too long to get it off between sessions. 15min of vid is about 500meg and the max it can use is a 2 gig card. Might have to invest in a second card for future.

Suspension wise i would be clueless as well. But as they are commonly used for a bit of drift both in the US and in Japan you should be able to find a reasonable amount of info, particularly for the front end. Why webers?

OP south does have a lot of left handers, but i wouldn't expect to see excessive wear on one side only. what sort of tyre and type? ie, you aren't running a soft compound ggg or sg r888 instead of a gg? how have they worn? evenly, outer edge, inner edge, center. really need to know how much toe front and rear. if it's excessive it can lead to premature uneven wear tyre pressures being out will cause uneven wear but you will notice that on the track as it tends to overheat and the tyres go off quickly and lose grip. Basically, if tyre wear is even and it's a softish tyre then everything is ok...rotate them or go and do a couple of days at wakefield

the rb25 is still an interference design, so pistons will still kiss valves in the event of a timing belt snap. As for the position of the crank as it is now, it's fine; the engine isn't running so as long as no one has tried to turn the engine over too forcefully nothing will be damaged. take the spark plugs out, stick a 27mm socket on the crank bolt and turn the crank slowly clockwise. There is a v shaped cut out on the oil pump housing (pretty much opposite where the dot is now) that lines up with the dot on the pulley. With the plugs out it should turn over easily. It may touch valves while you are doing this so you may have to rotate the cams slightly forward or back to clear. Touching won't hurt them, just don't try and force anything. The cams are near enough. with no belt they will rotate stightly off tdc due to the pressure of the valve springs on the lobe I can see idler and tensioner in the photos? What i'd be worried about is you have no bolt in the vct gear and the spring and cover/oil seal are missing. get that bolt and seal installed before anything else.

you can use the non abs s14 master but you will need to mod the lines to fit it due to the front port being on top at the front rather than in line with the other 2. I was going to do this recently but in the end decided to go with an s13det master (still looking) for ease of installation. I also don't really mind a longer pedal, it's just the s13de master the car has now makes it a little too long with the 4 pot fronts.