badhairdave

I'd rate OP south over OP GP if not for the corner coming off the bridge where i just keep it flat, chuck it in and bounce around the corner because the surface is so bad. I have an NA shit box so long straights between corners take some of the fun out of it for me. The shorter straight of south and the late apex hairpin leading into the esses remove some of that from the circuit. I really enjoy the flip flop leading into the final turn at OP. Basically flat through the flip flop and then line it up, quick stab on the brakes and throw it into the final turn. EC has a few nice combinations of corners. I really enjoy turns 1 through to 5 as a combination. Again NA shit box so i am flat down the straight, lift and turn in and then feed the gas back in before i hit the apex where i am flat again. Stand on the brakes into the hairpin and turn it in, feed on the power post apex and keep it flat into 3 and down the hill into 4 where i tap the brakes at the 50 and then chuck it in and floor it again though the corner, then another quick stab on the brakes, drop to 3rd and chuck it into 5. The sweeper leading into the second hairpin is also a heap of fun. EC rewards high corner speed as much as power IMHO. I've done wakefield more than either of the other 2 and as a result i really enjoy it but looking at it critically it's a pretty simple track. It doesn't have the changes of direction and technical nature of OP or EC as there is really only turns 3 and 4 that have a quick change of direction and require you to think beyond the corner directly in front of you. It is forgiving to a poorly set up car unlike the other 2 and a good beginner track. I really want to have a crack at MDTC while the car is still NA as it's another technical circuit (though not technically a race track) I'd probably say EC is my favorite of the three atm. Funny considering most would call it a power track and i have 110rwkw

Just briefly; Both turbos you have suggested are proven track performers. personally i'd be sticking with .64 in both. power wise in track tune with cams and a stock bottom end you are looking at around 220kw for a .64 disco (near enough to a 2530) and 240 for a 52T .64 2871 (gtrs). I'd tend to lean towards the disco of the 2 as the response is a fair bit better and i think more than makes up for the loss of top end.

Even if it was i reckon i could have pushed it round in less than that Nah, the car was great. Very happy with it and glad i had the lap timer.

So were most people. starlet was awesome. Shame about the timing issues. lol at my best lap time of 5+ minutes

you have gotten a street alignment. It'll do for track on street tyres but it's not ideal. It's useless for semis. As far as unpredictable, they are full of crap. It'll be predictable as hell as when you roll the tyre over the back end will want to slide. It'll do it exactly the same every time. But as you have bugger all front camber as well it'll probably be pretty balanced and not use the full tyre at either end...

The car was mostly behaving itself unlike last time. Had to add a bit of rear toe to keep the arse end a bit more stable over the bumps/ripple strips and then it was surprisingly easy to keep ripping out low 1:22. Shame natsoft didn't work as it'd be nice to get some official confirmation of the time. Yeah, it was great weather out there. Lofty had the starlet out too. That thing is just awesome

I got hello kitty out to OPGP today SAU Nickname: badhairdave Car Make and Model: S13 Silvia Circuit Name: OPGP Lap time: 1:22.00 (lap timer) natsoft is playing up and only has my first few laps of the day despite me seeing a printout of 1:27 after the second session? Modifications Engine: s14 SR20DE with 280 cams Power: 110rwkw approx Suspension: front S15 stock struts with camber tops and heavier springs, castor rods, rear old bilstein struts with heavier springs, nismo traction arms and LCA's, d project camber and toe arms. Tyres: 235/45-17 r888 gg Brakes: r34 gtt front with sbs carbon ceramic pads, rear s15 with cheap shit pads Body weight: Around 1000

You will need to change the master cylinder. You currently have one of the smallest masters and you are trying to move a lot more fluid when you use the bigger brakes so you get a long pedal. It's that simple. The bias will be out also. Are you sure it was a gtst and not a converted gts? Get a 32gtst master off a car with the 4 pot front/2 pot rear brakes. It will save you the hassle of messing with the lines and the piston size and bias will be right for the car

Slow day for bitching i guess.

oh no! my brake lines are going to explode. As are the lines on every car sold on the Australian market.... You'll be fine moodles. I've used maltech lines for years in a couple of different cars for plenty of track work

I just run the good stuff through. Cheap stuff is shit, no better than 3 day old rbf 600 if any gets left in the lines. Just run it through until you see clean fluid come out the other end and you'll get 99% of the old stuff out.

the rears aren't even close. The upper mount is at a different height so the 32 strut is way too short. Fronts should be fine though provided you have a reasonable range of height adjustment as the 32gtr strut is marginally shorter than 33gtst.

i've been doing mine before every track day lately, though not by choice. Stupid leaky rear caliper.... Normally i'd do it every 3 months or so with motul rbf600 or penrite sin. I tend to look at this sort of stuff in terms of money it costs me if i don't do it. 20 bucks spent every 2nd or 3rd day vs losing track time which roughly works out at around 400/day for me inc entry, travel and trailer hire.

4 week bump all prices are negotiable

http://www.maltech.com.au/home.html Also try maltech. They did my lines for the r32 and i was very happy. They are also ADR approved if you care about that sort of thing.

Not trying to sound like were ganging up on you Nismoman but I also wouldn't run an open face helmet. I'm not that pretty and certainly can't afford to get uglier if i have an acco becasue i've left the front half of my head is exposed. While you may avoid a direct face plant into the steering wheel by running harnesses you can still be cut up by shit flying about in a decent acco.

yeah, but don't take it as gospel i'm still wondering how to wash off 90km/h through the dog leg

i never had an issue with my r32 on a track or the street and it had similar power to the ones you mentioned. walbro lift pump, 1.5 surge tank, 044 main pump. plumbed in as fatz has mentioned with the lift pump easily out flowing the main. The car would happily do 20 minute sessions around wakefield in 30+ temps with no fuel issues. The tyres would over heat before anything else. It also ran a stock bonnet. The surge tank would get warm to touch but never hot. Ideally the return should be plumbed into the fuel tank but as that's a PITA we all tend to just run it back to the surge tank. If your lift pump isn't out flowing the main significantly so the fuel is constantly being recirculated through the engine bay then you will end up with the problem you have mentioned. If the lift pump is easily out flowing the main then the fuel is constantly getting returned to the tank and getting a chance to cool down.

They are all cops. Though i've never felt they lacked anything major and they are really predictable. Maybe i've only ever driven well sorted examples (with mine being the obvious exception)? It's interesting though. Has anyone given any more constructive comments? Too stiff? Too soft?, too much roll? blah blah blah? It's obviously working reasonably well as it doesn't have a heap of power to make up for slow cornering.

I've used both. I didn't notice any difference. The sin is cheaper and my local repco has it. win win. Not knocking the motul product as i have used it for a couple of years with no issue, just don't feel like a half hour trip just to get some any more. As mentioned above, both are dot 4 compatible so none of the issues of switching to a dot 5, just bleed it through.

It may be because the dog bones don't have the same offset as the stockers between the inner and the outer You can install them in various ways and it effects both camber and caster. If you have them offset towards the front it may explain your problem (you also lose caster). If you have them even you will gain caster and it should increase your negative camber. I did in my GTSt, also going from an adjustable bush type to a dogbone. I'm kinda guessing but it's about the only thing it could be really, short of a dud tape measure or your existing bushes having enough compliance that the geometry changes when loaded.

It's hard enough for track work if you are using street tyres and big sway bars. semi slicks like a stiffer spring, around the 6/5 mark, or you can run a higher spring rate again with stock sway bars. There are a few ways to achieve a similar result. Each has it's own merits and short comings. As has been mentioned already, the main failing with this set up is the stroke of the shock. The soft spring rate doesn't help in that regard so you can end up smashing your bump stops in certain situations where stiff sway bars don't contribute.

same turbo, new housing i am not going through those boost control issues again. So anyway, despite a horrible understeering pig of a car at the start of the day and me thinking i'd be lucky to be doing 13's i was surprised to see a best time (freak lap) of 1:10.3 or so from a previous best of 11.7. Not bad for the addition of some rear camber and a few poly bushes. Added a bit of front toe out, dropped the front tyre pressures to the point where it was feeling pretty good and managed to get it to 10.1 with a lot of 10 second laps strung together. My mate was also driving and managed to crack a 9.9 something in it during the last session the bastard. It really needs a bit more front camber but i just didn't have the adjustment left in it to get any more so it would still understeer horribly in a couple of situations but was reasonably happy everywhere else once i figured out how to get it to turn in.

yeah, you can do it easily enough and as you are going down in spring rate you will probably find that the damper is better able to control the spring. You may have an issue with swapping tops over if the shaft on the shock is a different diameter or the section for the mount is longer/shorter but you won't know that until you have a good look.

Bloody autosalon car.... With the times you were getting at MDTC you will be into the low 9's next time at wakefield if you drive it the same way. I'm back at wakefield tomorrow, hope to crack a 10 for it's last NA outing there. Should be fun. new engine, almost ready