badhairdave

Nah, there's some original nuts and bolts in there still plus some of my own shonky bracketry to keep the front bar on with no reo. ditto the rear. Though the front guards have some cable ties to replace the bolts which sheared off due to being rusted solid Don't have any side skirts but they'd be a good idea to hide the rust holes in the sils...but black race tape does a good job of that too and stops some of the water getting into the cabin on wet days.

always good to see people talking up s13's on a skyline forum My NA nugget. Your car isn't rough harry.

if the front end looks like the one in the link and the back end looks like the one on the right pictured above then it'll be an older 2530 or 2535. The newer 2530kai will have the hks stamped comp housing If either are different then it's either and sr 2530 or a gtr 2530, or it's not a 2530.

definitely wipers. When i did my 25 into r32 conversion it was removed and the rb20 wiper section of loom used.

Hi all, I've got the last of my r32 bits here to get rid of. All body parts are gunmetal both front guards, drivers side $50, passenger side $40 as it has a small bend in the guard lip where the tyre clipped it rear bar, $50 tail lights $50 each stock rear struts and springs, pair, complete $25. manual conversion inc pedal, master, slave and lines, master and slave both bought new within the last couple of years, no clutch and flywheel etc $100 2 rb starter motors, 25 each 2 alternators, 30 each Pick up in Sydney (Campbelltown) only cheers Dave

simonr32 ran one with very good results. There were slight creep issues which were resolved by opening up the port slightly (retaining the same flap from memory) and possibly changing the dump. he made somewhere in the 280rwkw range. Overall they are a good unit, same cart as the hks 2835 proS. If you are going the uncropped turbine 3071 and want to retain IW then .82. Don't .63 it.

i still have the pedals, master and slave cylinder and the lines. send me a pm if you are interested I've been meaning to start a new thread since i can't access my old acct any more... cheers Dave

s13's are the smarter choice. I haven't seen an mr2 (stripped or otherwise) that i found particularly impressive on a track. And they can be quick with minimal mods/power.

synthetic 80w90. the same as is supplied with a new one. It's a bit of a PITA to get the genuine nismo veruspeed stuff for a reasonable price unfortunately.

maybe it is a trick question.... there's no vac signal to the box, it's all electronic.

your hicas is faulty, not much more to it really. fix it or lock it.

i have 4. A bit crusty and missing some nuts but the hard to find bits are there. pm me if you are interested and i'll get some photos.

my 5inch catco went the same way as sean gtr's. It just worked it's self loose around the edges and proceeded to unravel from the outside of the substrate. The outsides of the cat didn't have a mark on it from scraping or anything so i figured it was a manufacturing fault. other than the separation the guts looked good, no melting or whatever. It got punched out and flames started to appear on over run

remove wheels, put what was the right rear on the left and what was the left rear on the right and re measure? Becasue if you swap the wheels over and the measurements don't change then it's the car and not the wheels. 99% chance your car is not straight, 1% that there is an issue with wheels or tyres

i think that mark at about half past 2 is just some surface staining from water or something. Otherwise you just have some crazing. I've been told that you are ok up to about 1/3 of the swept area, which you look to be around. Mine are actually a bit worse than yours, or at least they were before the last track day. I really need to have a look at them before the next one...

It's just a garrett wheel, and 48, 52 and 56 trim 71mm wheels are now readily available so pretty much any turbo specialist

What was on today? Supersprint? Only being 2 seconds off your skylines pace is pretty bloody impressive when you consider how much power you've given up.

Agree that you need to run the .82 if you want an IW, atleast on a 3071. The issue isn't due to the flap opening as there is actually heaps of room for the gas to escape around it and get into the dump if it's done right. I could wire mine fully open and it would still peak at 1.2bar (as opposed to 1.4 with the actuator attached). Also agree that you should avoid tweakit. In the past they have mislabeled or misrepresented the turbos they sell on their site with incorrect specs and photos. That on it's own is enough for me to be cautious at the very least.

You've just given yourself a very steep learning curve, but i think you'll end up a better driver for it. Ignoring my old braking points was (and still is) the hardest for me. You missed 2 very important things in your list of bits. It has a nardi and work emotions. You already have drift cred

it was supposed to happen on the M4 3 years ago. It never did. That's why the extra cameras were installed. And in NSW any speed camera (even the mobile ones) must have a warning sign. It's the same with the heavy vehicle ones on the freeways. They have to be sign posted. Until you see the signs go up there's nothing there. terry, you're one paranoid unit...

rip the interior out including the dash and trial fit it in the car. It has to be fully assembled in there so that you can line everything up before drilling to attach it. If it's a custom cage no 2 will be identical. From the look of it you will have the main hoop right behind the divers seat, the 2 front leg will need to go through the dash and the brackets on the rear legs look like that are made to attach to the back of the strut towers so if you're lucky it may go through the speaker holes in the parcel shelf.

i just chucked in the supplied oil (veruspeed 80w90 with nismos?) and went and did figure 8's for half an hour at a fairly constant 20km/h. then tracked it a few times No idea if it is synthetic or not. i may have to look that up prior to the next oil change. My diff is the clunkiest, tightest, mechanical i have ever driven and it works brilliantly. Kaaz are really just covering their arse with the bedding in details to protect them from the idiots who decide to go out and flog f**k out of the car once the diff goes in thinking now they can drift. As long as you do some sort of low load bedding for a reasonable amount of time you will be fine. And their service intervals are just silly. 10,000km? Stock plate type mechs are still 40k intervals, so again, i'd say arse covering.

They improve feel but don't improve performance. my r32 gtst had a cusco my current s13 track car doesn't have one. It's something nice to have but far from essential.

Fair call. I wasn't knocking your decision at all. I have also gone down the cheap non registered track car path so understand in that regard. Unfortunately i am in the process of throwing money at mine to make it faster even though it's a lot of fun as it is...

That's a fair commitment for a track day nugget! best of luck with it and hope to see you around so i can have a look in person