badhairdave

out of interest, what category are you going to run it in?

because thats kinda like saying why is an NA s13 quicker than a turbo r33.... Do you ever wonder why you need to look for car movies that were made before you were born? I do some times. Just finished watching cannonball run (a car movie made when i was in kindy for a change). Not bad at all.

Just say no to transporter 3. I saw it a while back and it was rubbish. I got lemans and had a watch during the week. Well worth it. And yes, the car chase in Bullit is fantastic. Though I am highly biased when it comes to steve mcqueen. I loved the great escape when i was a kid (and still do).

I agree completely as another person who's run into a wall (though luckily didn't head butt the wheel). There is no way i'd wear an open face helmet at a speed event. A secondary consideration is additional protection from flying glass and debris in an acco, as well as some (but not heaps of) additional protection in a fire.

The engine side mount itself only needed a couple of taps with a hammer to clear the housing. The rubber bit needed the heat shield (?) removed and there's a fairly chunky bit of metal that wraps around from the base up the side that doesn't attach to anything, that has to be ground off. And on the cross member side just grind/bash away until it clears. I used rb20 mounts And you do need to install the turbo on the car unfortunately, though i did figure out when a stud stripped on the turbo/manifold flange that if i undid the engine mounts and lifted the engine up and toward the drivers side there was just enough room to get it out while bolted together and back in too, but not an easy task. The comp housing was in about the best position to clear the manifold and have room to get the outlet pipe connected. If you rotate it too much you'll run into issues with melting silicone or the other way hitting body work. Send me a pm, I can give you a couple of photos, they aren't great as i had a camera phone in bad light but may help. I can take some new photos of the cross member butchery and the engine mount with bend too. Cheers Dave

I actually did go the whole hog with s14 LCAs, roll center adjusters, steering lock spacers, and ikeya formula tie rods and MFR tie rod ends. The car was silly low and no more bump steer. It was a fluke, but the front end never felt better

The engine already upsets the balance Either on the floor directly behind the passenger seat or just behind the B pillar on that side. My main considerations when doing this sort of stuff is 1) can i install the passenger seat if needed, 2) accessibility. An appropriate sealed battery is going to be around the 5kg mark. It won't offset driver or engine weight, but you are on the right track by trying to get weight out of the front end of a skyline.

rigidity, and yes. Though there are enough examples around where people have removed it and added in other bracing to compensate. tube frame front ends and the like. s13 dent sport track car as an example

ear plugs will fix that

No one has mentioned Vanishing Point? The whole move is a chase! (maybe i'm just showing my age...) Not brilliant but good for a watch every now and then. Transporter is ok, 3 is pure rubbish. I really need to get myself a copy of Le mans. You're talking the Steve McQueen one right? I think i need to have a look at smokey and the bandit and cannonball run again too

As someone that's done something similar, but no where near as good, I salute you! That would have taken a lot of time. On a side note, that's a hell of a lot of wiring that needs to go

I ran the bcpr7es which is virtually the same thing, just a slightly longer body. Power wasn't what prompted the change (as it made 250 with the 6's in it) it was boost above 17psi when a miss started to creep in. yep -11 is a 1.1 gap, no - is a .8

sorry mate, I always found mine would go quiet after a good thrashing. They had the exact same symptoms too, only did it at very light pedal application at really low speed when approaching a stop

Yeah, suspension setup is a bitch Annoying but.. no buts really, just annoying, particularly when you make changes and go backwards. Nice to see the knives out when the guy isn't around to have his say. I have my own issues with whiteline but overall i found the info provided by SK to be pretty informative. He was cagey on a few points and i disagreed with him on occasion but the guy knows his shit. I think moving from just providing info to providing parts and services in the form of the group buy (and the resulting supply issues and defence of the product) is what's caused a lot of people to turn and likely why he isn't around here any more. I was more annoyed by all the sheep who answered every question in this section by referring to the group buy....

I'm almost 4 seconds slower than my street reg r32 gtst! Sorry but that's slow. So is this the qld car or a different local one?

cracks and warps are the 2 big ones. Warps can be fixed but i wouldn't run a cracked rim. The rest is cosmetic It's pretty hard to get dudded on a wheel.

I wouldn't touch the pinion seal on the rear diff. It's a dissasembly to get to them and then you need to get your pinion pre load right and confirm that the back lash is set correctly. If it isn't leaking, leave it.

It's easy enough doing it on the car. I've done it both ways on different cars. Off car is easiest, however getting the diff off and on is a bit of work on it's own. On car it's just undo the drive shaft bolts, push it out of the way, dump the oil and pop out the out put shaft

Yep Easy job, you just have to tap them out with a hammer as there is a circlip holding them in and then you will see the seal. Rip that out however you can (small flat blade works well enough) and tap in a replacement. Job done

at a guess 38342. Bit hard to tell from the diagram. Basically, pop out the out put shaft and there is an oil seal pressed into the housing. It's an item that wears so it's the more likely culprit.

give it a clean and confirm where it's coming from first. It's very unlikely to be the seal between the housing and the backing plate as they don't just start leaking randomly. If anything it is either the breather or possibly one of the seals on the out put shafts. Also the front section of the housing looks pretty clean in your photos so it sort of points to the breather, and possibly an over full diff.

36 for the drive shaft and (i think) 27mm for the handbrake one. I say i think because it's around there and as i have the right size socket i have never paid enough attention....

so you're getting an mx5..... prepare to be horribly slow! slower than me in an NA s13 even (that's f**king slow).

So you're going to the dark side and getting an s13?

mafia on here is using one. There have been a few discussions in the past