badhairdave

Yeah, simon-s14 runs something similar in his drift car, though from a different manufacturer (cazman industries from memory). He made pretty positive comments about them initially. Not sure how they are wearing after a couple of years of abuse.

oh yuck, i've been there. Na silvia on a heavy arse hire trailer in my old 00 2.7 petrol hilux. Poor thing struggled with just the trailer on hills and i had to get it up Mt Ousley with the car on.... My current 09 4L petrol hilux tows pretty happily, seats are an improvement but still shit. You feel it the next day if you've been in the drivers seat for more than 3 hours. Yes i'm getting old. On falcon fuel economy: meh, the challenge is to see if you can hit 99.9L/100km on the trip meter while towing It would take a full tank to do the campbelltown-wakefield round trip in the old falcon ute.

I didn't get my nugget out once last year.... Initially it was a bit of a lack of interest as work was sucking the life out of me and then i had a week in port douglas around june and 5 weeks in the uk and europe in september and then a weekend in melbourne in november that wasn't cheap and then the year was over and i had no money left. boo f**king hoo i hear you all say I'm planning on getting out again in the next month or so, try and get around 4 days in this year.

Who ever thought of making zones where it can be used played too many arcade racing games. It's a stupid idea for what has become a stupid form of motorsport. May as well just go full mario cart and give them oil slicks and homing missiles too.... Ive been saying "more tyre, less aero" for years when ever i end up talking to someone about F1, I should update to "more tyre, less bullshit"

I know it looks like everyone is jumping on the band wagon after Marlin's comments, but seriously? Forget all your plans for the moment, find someone, anyone, with half a clue about working on cars and get them to show you how to use a jack and jack stands safely before you hurt yourself or damage the car further.

rx7 850's are still sold by blitz. I had a set of s6 rx7 550 side feeds in my rb25 and when one died Autobarn had the exact same injector on the shelf with a blitz box and associated mark up. http://www.nengun.com/blitz/fuel-injectors-other-parts Top one is the collars you want, just need to get 6 ordered rather than the set of 4 shown. Get some new factory o rings too. the rx7 ones don't fit. You also need to trim the little screen thingy at the bottom or they won't fit the rail. And some vaseline or you'll tear the bottom o ring trying to fit it. Honestly, get some nismos.

where are you getting your power and earth from? I ask because hicas gives no shit about about a lot of things, boost pressure being one of them. However, if you're spliced into an earth trigger with a solenoid stuttering away giving an odd ball signal to the ecu...... Have you completely removed the factory boost control and blocked off any loose hoses?

front's ok except you have toe in. Personally i'd give it 2mm total toe out to get it turning in a bit sharper. How'd you manage to get so much caster in there without the wheels rubbing holes in the inner guards? Rear probably has too much camber. The only way to really be sure on camber settings is by using a pyrometer.

You're lucky it happened now. Imagine how pissed you'd be if it was all together and made bugger all boost? Any turbo place will be able to fix it with minimal effort and cost. Probably just cracked off a tack weld somehow.

It's a bit different to the original spiel:

Regs are pretty loose aren't they? Other than the cut and paste job stating both 90dB exhaust noise and 95dB maximum noise @ 30m (not sure how they can distinguish which noise is louder?) you can enter any production based car with a seat belt, fire extinguisher and secondary bonnet restraint that runs fuel listed in the cams schedule. Did i miss something?

You really need to put a bit of force on the wheel to move it enough to see if there's a problem as you are pushing against the rest of the bushes in the rear suspension. You need to get the wheels off the ground and get under the car to see where the movement is when you are putting force on the wheels No need to replace the lock bar. It's a bit of pipe with 2 tabs for the bolts and 2 threaded bungs for the tie rods. Nothing to go wrong.

The 3 things that go and cause the issue you are describing are: The outer ball joint that's pressed into the knuckle The inner ball joint on the tie rods The subframe bushes (but that feels more like the back end is flopping about than actually trying to steer) Most people with this issue find it's the outer ball joint, on my car the inner went and the outers were fine. It doesn't take much play for it to start feeling very unsettled.

Cusco note 2 different model diff's as compatible with r33's (one of which is compatible with s14/15), and different numbers again for r32, and r34 but that said it's really luck of the draw sometimes, particularly if you have a car from early or late in the production run. Nismo diff centres all have the larger holes and are supplied with crown wheel bolts that have 13mm ish shanks and 12mm threads. Basically so if you have a crown wheel/centre with the smaller bolts you can still use your crown wheel and the new bolts, if you have one with the bigger thread you re use your old bolts. I'm sure i still have that bag of bolts in a drawer somewhere as i didn't need them for my old r32's diff....

I don't need everyone to agree with me. I'd be bored. Look at the roads you're driving on. You know i'm right.

They've given you a family car alignment. They adjusted what they could at the front end (caster and toe) but they have given you toe in because that's what they give 99% of people as tyres wear less with toe in, but turn in is doughy as a result. The big difference up front is either dead bushes or a bent LCA. I would say most likely it's the lower control arm bushes as they are big soft units that wear out. I reckon you could take it back tomorrow and the front camber would read differently again. replace the LCA bushes before doing adjustable UCA's. Up the back it's a bit of an odd one as they should have been able to get the camber reasonably even, if not reasonably straight. Factory adjustment is in the order of .75 degrees per side. It looks like they haven't even touched it, the minor change is a result of the toe change. If they have tried to adjust it and that's the best they can achieve then ideally you need to find out what's bent. Or just be lazy like the rest of us and get some adjustable rear upper arms. And bullshit on cars being aligned different left to right gtsboy. Most alignment places are lucky to align a car straightish, let alone .5 more caster here, .25 degrees more camber there. It's something sydneykid liked to recommend years ago, and it was as wrong then as it is now. Roads don't all have consistent 3 degrees of cross fall to the left.

Keep the stock gear, seriously. Wipers, lights, indicators all at your fingers without taking your hands off the wheel to reach for a switch. Plus you're used to where they are so no thinking about where stuff is when you get in the track car once a month or so. main power/start/what ever else can go in the console as you don't really need to get at it when driving.

Treat it as a blessing in disguise, replace the Advantis with something good. Try it on, you might get lucky. I've seen it from both sides, got shafted both times.... 1st time i damaged a shock due to a massive pothole on an on ramp onto the F5, complained to RTA, RTA said it was the M5 operators problem, M5 operators said it had nothing to do with their bit of road, RTA didn't care, i got nowhere. Funnily enough it was fixed within 24hr's. 2nd time doing a road widening as i work for a civil contractor, road was finished, line marked and last thing we had to put in a pedestrian island within the line marked island (i specifically left it until after the linemarking as i know drivers are idiots so wanted to make it pretty obvious). The night after we poured it but before we could get the signs on it it was hit by some idiot who destroyed a wheel and tyre. Note that they were over a metre outside the lane to hit it like they did. They claimed RTA was at fault, RTA fingered us as the contractor because there was no sign, we told her she was outside the lane so tough shit, she went back to RTA, RTA threatened to pull our accreditation, we got shafted... From your second picture there it looks like there is a socket for a sign at the bottom end? I would imagine there should be one at the other end too but it's been hit so many times that the socket is gone, line marking obscured and it also crosses the edge of the 50. I disagree with mlr on this one. There's also plenty of evidence there that people are constantly hitting it yet nothing has been done about it.Council is technically negligent. Threats of legal action go a long way. Make threats then lawyer up if needed but i suspect they would know they are boned if you took it further and pay for the damage.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2444259 not even close.... to be honest it's the turbine i'd want to get my hands on.

use the rears and revalve to gtst spec from memory the gtr/gts4 uses a slightly shorter front but if you are getting circlip grooves added you might get away with it. If someone confirms they aren't good then worst case get new gtst fronts. You can get extra grooves machined in your current shocks to suit the circlip adjustment. It's cheaper to revalve than buy new so your train of thought is sound provided the ones you have are ok to begin with.

It certainly sounds like it. I can't remember if rb's are the same but on sr mounts the studs are offset about 10mm from each other when looking at them side on. So if they are the same, one engine mount is out by 20mm and it would easily push the box over as you've described.

Dewiring is a pain in the arse! But it does have advantages. I look at it like this: If you are leaving everything in it's original location then yes, dewire. If you want to retain factory switch gear then dewire. If you want to relocate fuse boxes and have switches for everything then buy a kit. If you want to relocate fuse boxes and retain factory switch gear you end up with something like the picture which has partial factory dash and switch wiring, modified engine loom to suit relocated fuse box, custom alternator, battery, starter, and lighting wiring. I also did custom power window wiring. It was a PITA.

fixed Don't know that i'd say wow, but they don't break too much and results are on par with the genuine stuff. I think they're the best bang for buck turbos on the market at the moment and by a long way too.

I agree with roy. I lost track of the number of track days i did with my old r32 with a std bottom end rb25 and the oil slightly over filled. I had a basic catch can setup but it did nothing really, never had oil in it at the end of a day. Most oil control issues in rb20/25's are introduced when people start chucking high volume oil pumps on their engines. You were either 1 of the unlucky few, or possibly you just cooked the mineral oil...

nope. kw for kw, tyre for tyre, brake for brake etc etc everything identical, the 4wd will beat the 100kg lighter 2wd because it can get out of 2/3rd gear corners faster by putting more power to the ground and doesn't give that much away by the end of the straight or in the braking zone. Maybe if we were talking closer to 200kg difference i'd change my mind. Find a 3/4 gear track and they are getting closer Find a 4/5/6 gear track and the lighter car might just sneak in front. But for such a small difference in weight on most Australian tracks, nope.