badhairdave

So based on every ones opinions of hydraulic handbrakes; They are useless as a handbrake... So may as well not have one at all? Or are they useful in an emergency, say like i blow a hose on the front circuit or boil the fluid (again most likely in the front circuit). Line is already running through the cab, sav man, so the only extra weight will be the handbrake assy itself, offset somewhat by the removal of the factory one and bracket on the tunnel.

10-15rwkw, if you're lucky. You're going to make a max of about 95rwkw if everything works well together and the ecu doesn't have a cry If you go bigger cams, nistune it and up the red line plus tune (so another 1100) you might get another 5-10rwkw on top of that So basically 3k to get you to about 105rwkw, 110rwkw if you have an s14de as the compressions a bit higher.

Pulled the brake assy off the knuckles and chucked them on the old bathroom scales. They reckon 1.5kg each, not including cables, though the backing plates have been trimmed too so maybe a touch more for unmolested ones. Funnily the cable weighs almost 1kg on it's own! the bare s13 knuckle is 5kg. Anyone know the weight of an alloy z32 one? Internet says up to 8pounds saving (3.6kg) but i can't see a lump of alloy weighing in at only 1.4kg. Obviously analogue bathroom scales so weights are more indicative than anything.

Drive in drive out same day isn't a full tune. There is no way they can check the cold start. Nothing wrong with it, i have done it that way plenty of times, but you have to accept that it won't be perfect when cold. On the plus side, the factory temp enrichment map is pretty forgiving so if you haven't gone overboard on mods you'll get away with it.

It's made of metal, it weighs something. By removing it the unsprung weight is reduced. Significantly cheaper than new lightweight wheels. Pressure bleeding off is an interesting one i didn't know about. Not really critical for me as the car live on a flat floor, as long as it can hold presure over a few hours during towing i'd be happy. Boxhead, when you say you wouldn't trust it on it's own do you mean in a brake fail on track scenario or just a car parked on hill scenario?

Good info, thanks mate.

Just remove the factory handbrake and retain the caliper and rotor.

I don't use my handbrake on the track, just when parking the car and when it's on the trailer. I've recently installed an incabin bias valve and have a braided line running through the cabin to the rear brakes. This got me thinking that it'd be a pretty easy job to install a hydraulic handbrake and so reduce unsprung weight by getting rid of the factory drum assembly. Wise or unwise? Never having had a brake failure i have no idea how effective a hand brake would be at trying to knock off speed anyway so figure id ask.

Has anyone been through the process of building and registering their own trailer? Looking at the RTA and DOTARS docs there is a design check listed in the rego process so i'd like to know how extensive that is if anyone knows. The rest is easy.

link for people with no google skillz mustangs still read higher than DD by a bit, but the results are comparable as far as ramp and peak power go (within a few %). Good find. I find it interesting that they are already making application specific housings before they even have a full roll out of the std housing options though...

no such thing as minimal fluid loss and bleeding. You get air in the system when you undo the lines. You have to bleed that out. other than that, what's so hard about removal? 2 m12 nuts, 2 m10 tube nuts (get a proper spanner), and the level sensor plug to undo. Then you just lift it off the booster. Install is the opposite of removal, you just need to leave the front tube nut loose initially to bleed air out of the master before bleeding the rest.

Since when is a std diff 1.8? 1.3 is on the money unless you have an extended backing plate (trust)

extend the wires and mod the plug or regularly check your brake fluid level. Did that really warrant necrophilia?

The old school one? should only be 4 wires. blue and white go to the solenoid, black and red are power and earth. There's a second smaller plug that isn't used unless you daisy chain the boost controller to something else.

This man speaks truth. Sounds like your result is even worse than i had when i went with bosch coils before split fires were cheap and china gear arrived. I could at least drive around at less than 7psi and have very smooth idle and light load running. Went to shit at anything near 1/2 throttle. Your plugs are fouled because it doesn't have a big enough spark to properly burn the fuel in the cylinders.

depends on the manufacturer. The slots can go either way

Do you know that or are you guessing based on general police/rta flamin mongreliness? As that would be my main concern also. Trying to find solid info on oddball things like this is like pulling teeth I reckon it could go either way, but as you are towing it, and the trailer is RTA approved for that purpose and registered you'd have a reasonable arguement if you got pinged for it. Yeah, i'd be swapping tyres for towing baron. No way i'd pull it on semis.

Speaking of ugly trailers, anyone got any experience with these gypsy dolly things? Saw one on the back of an NRMA van the other day and it got me thinking... http://www.trailers-melbourne.communityguide.com.au/ I have a total lack of space to store a trailer out front (and don't really want to due to possible theft) but i reckon i could just get one of these through my garage and out the back with a bit of tricky manoeuvring.

There's a lot of useless bracing out there. The ones worth looking at in my opinion: Caster rod brace (similar to the nismo ones) as there is a small inward force (maybe around 10-15% depending on angle of the caster rod) applied to the bracket under load so this brace actually does something! Not triangulated so no resistance to twisting Front and rear strut braces, same deal, the struts aren't vertical so you are preventing them pushing inwards, unfortunately they are not triangulated so no resistance to twisting and the bulk of the force from the struts is vertical, so twisting. The A pillar brace triangulates the front strut top to the base of the a pillar. It's a good thing, but consider that that part of the chassis is built like a brick shit house so how effective can it really be? Everything else, under floor bracing in particular, is all in the same plane. In the middle of the chassis you are mainly looking at twisting forces and a ladder brace has bugger all resistance. Some of the cross braces for hatchbacks can be effective. B pillar brace, don't get me started... Your cage, if it has a cross brace on the main hoop and a bar between the rear legs at the back, will do more to increase chassis rigidity than any bolt on bracing.

The type 4 board on it's own is 460 so you are up around the 1100 dollar mark http://www.nistune.com/equipment-products-type4.php Unigroup do them for that. I have nothing against powertune but i honestly see them more as an excellent developer of bespoke parts, like their manifolds, gear box adapters, fuel pump cradles, injector rail kits etc, first and a tuner second. I see unigroup as a tuner (and cam designer/supplier) before anything else.

Jim Reed rings a bell?

I don't think the issue is the numbers any more Duncan, I think it has more to do with getting it through the planning approval stage as the usual NIMBY attitude still prevails, even out in the sticks. Look at all the issues Gary is having with residents around MDTC and that is well and truly in the middle of nowhere with very few residents even near the track. He at least managed to get it off the ground but for how long?

32's are still faster than 33's too Not a 33 to be seen in the top ten duncan posted.... r vs s battle sounds interesting.

Don't be like that, Marlin!

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