badhairdave

I also had a couple of years with a 20 box behind a 280odd rwkw rb25. Ended up removing it and selling it to upgrade to a 25 box before the inevitable death and zero resale. This was in a full weight 32gtst. It did get a little noiser over that time but still shifted fine. Mechanical sympathy and a sprung centre clutch is the key.

tongue! That was the word i was looking for. I've been getting mental blanks on basic shit for the past couple of weeks. Thanks Guys I had an older hilux a few years back now, around an 04 from memory, and i don't remember the suspension being anywhere near as bad (but it was good for lifting the inside rear wheel on roundabouts). Though I suppose my reference point then was a 32gtst with 8f/6r springs rather than the girlfriends C4...

I've recently been given a 2010 4lt 2wd hilux for work with the uprated tow pack ~2200kg from memory. I don't know whether the rear springs are stiffer with the tow pack or it's common to all hilux's but the ride is abysmal. I actually prefer it with a car and trailer on the back. The other thing i've noticed is the tow bar is really low, resulting in a lot of rake on the trailer and also makes it difficult to get my (not very low) cars on to the trailer. I'm thinking about flipping the insert part of the bar to try and gain a bit of height. Does anyone know if it's ok to do or am i going to end up with a snapped hitch in the middle of nowhere?

I had this engine retuned last week after around 3 years of 8k abuse and 1 year of sitting in my garage near identical except now it has a more street friendly 2.5 exhaust and a cat and is running off an s13 DET ecu 109.8 rwkw

It's probably not your problem now but once you sort this issue it will be the walbros are rated 246l/h@50psi, basically at 1 bar boost your base pressure plus boost pressure is going to be near enough to 50psi. 246/60 is 4.1L/min 1000cc/m injectors x6 x.65 duty gives 3.9L/min You're marginal

They are a different thread. new genuine ones cost me $135ea a few years ago

Agreed. The one independent result that's out there already looks promising.

Nah, still a gt30 turbine. You would assume transient response would be better with the smaller wheel but it should be reflected to a degree in the dyno as it should spin up faster initially and the effect compounds. The theme i am seeing here is that the gtx wheel has a comp map that is comparable to the next size up gt wheel, the gtx turbos response is comparable to a turbo with the next size up gt comp wheel and same turbine. Have garrett wasted a heap of development money making a small wheel that ultimately performs the same as an old gt wheel or are we just not seeing the right results? From left field and a theory about this result, a gt3082 is too much compressor for a gt30 turbine, you'd probably see a better result for both response and power from a gt3582. Does this then carry through that ideally the gtx76mm compressor should be matched with a gt35 turbine and in that scenario we'd see better results?

they have a different turbine. In general; cropped gt30 in the t2 housings vs uncropped gt30 in the t3 housings. Though the .86 t2 sized housing is roughly equivalent to a .63 t3. OK for a 3071 on an rb25 though the internal waste gate size may be marginal.

Yes it was and yes it will. Now you have to bleed the master and that's a messy bitch of a job. You might get away with just loosening the front brake line, pump the pedal a few times until fluid is seeping past the thread, and then tighten it up. If you are lucky it will clear enough air that you can bleed the rest of the system like you have been doing already. If you are unlucky you may need to bleed the primary (rear most fitting) as well before bleeding. Do both to be sure.

Pretty much as bubba has stated. For a daily i personally would not get a tight mechanical diff. I put a regular old nismo 1.5 way in mine, and though it did the job for the track and skidpan duties the car got, it made me dislike the car as a streeter. Nothing wrong with the diff, i still have it in my s13 track car. For a streeter i'd get a nismo pro 1.5 way and adjust the preload to soft for daily duties. Plus there is always redline friction modifier to make it a bit nicer as well. As for breaking drive shafts; If you drag it with sticky tyres you will break a drive shaft at some point. Upgrade to the gtr centre and shafts if that is the case.

Proper ones or the horrible t2 int gated things? With the right cams a proper 3071 will make boost earlier than a 2871 and destroy it up top. Mine, just a regular -5023 3071 with a .63 rear on a china manifold with short duration big lift cams and springs. engine is stock otherwise.

Nah, just collecting bits at this stage

I should probably update. I finally got off my arse and started chasing this up and confirmed with risking. 1 inch (BM50 equivalent) 2 port master off a GQ patrol p/n JB1777, there are a few manufacturers around, i went with PBR for $110 delivered off ebay 1 1/8 inch (BM57 equivalent) 2 port again off a GQ patrol p/n JB1775, go for around $160 delivered 7/8 inch (BM44) 2 port master off an MQ patrol/D21 Navara p/n JB1731, $125 delivered Wilwood proportioning valves go for 90-100 delivered off ebay depending on seller, or $92 from MSCN you need an m10-1 tee, which i have already from MSCN for $22.50 And a bunch of lines, whether hard lines or -3 braid is up to you, big difference in price. I'm not sure how to run a hard line to the prop valve as it has 1/8npt fittings and not inverted seats like regular brake lines, there are adapters for braid though.

I think that's a great result. It still has a good 3k of usable power after the bullshit steep ramp. Though you wouldn't want to get caught below the boost threshold. Dunno that it'd work too well on an rb30. Remember you have to keep the revs below 4k becasue it's only a truck engine.

Good intentions, but unfortunately total lack of funds and no fixed time frame combined with no planning approval says this is dead in the water already. I'd hope he's keeping track of donations so he can give the money back when it all falls apart.

Then you will probably need to buy one of these to make it work. http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/0561B.pdf

A little left field; nugget 3040 (3082), something i normally wouldn't recommend. big comp, small turbine and .82 housing to try and get some response out of it. you'd be skirting the bottom of it's peak island but the 82mm 56T compressor in .7a/r cover will flow 50lb/min at 1.75 pressure ratio and only just drop below your 70% target. You aren't pushing the shit out of it so the smaller turbine with smallish housing wouldn't be choking it up, maybe even consider a 1.06 twin scroll, so exhaust back pressure should remain reasonable. The mismatch may make it a bit lazy, but the high comp should make up for it. ??? i dunno, just thinking out loud...

Yeah, there's something wrong. You should be able to basically finger tighten it until it bottoms out and then torque it up. Are you reinstalling a factory gear?

Maybe, but you haven't had to find a decent set of rear coilovers that match the fronts recently... Pressed the ball joint out on my knuckles before, cost nothing as i had them stripped already and only took 2 minutes. Bushes can be had from pretty much any auto parts supplier. I got mine through Autobarn and Auto One from memory. Diff's are the same i think? Worst case if you have a 2 bolt rear cover currently you will need to swap that. The s13 is a 4 bolt.

I know what you mean and i mostly agree. I previously ran the gt3071 .63 on an rb25 and would do so again (with an ex gate this time). It didn't seem to give away anything up top over the .82 graphs i saw but was all in 500-750 sooner with mountains of torque from 3k. If i were to go a gtx3071 i would definitely do the .82 housing as there were already manifold pressure issues showing with the gt.

That would be the adjustable cam gears...

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Tune it as high as it'll go with an eye towards average power over peak power. You don't have to use all the power when you take it to the track but at least you know it's safe when you decide to wind it up. I don't know that there is such a thing as too much power, just too much for your setup

My S13 was NA when i got it. Made about 120rwkw and was completely stripped. It was fun, I really enjoyed driving it and pissing off the turbo boys when i posted quicker times than they did. Totally reliable as well. No maintenance required between track days, it didn't use brake pads, it didn't cook the oil, unlike my previous skyline. The only problem i found was on a regular track day the heros wouldn't get out of the way and i didn't have the power to get past them on the straights. I could be fair up their arse from the first to the last corner, but they'd pull 10+ car lengths on me down the straight....Not a major issue, but when you spend every second lap dropping back far enough to have a clean run it gets pretty frustrating.