BASHO

Paid this asshole for a BOV two weeks ago still no BOV and no cash back. I've lost his EM and mobile in a hard drive crash so if anybody could pm the contacty Nos it would be great. victor 71--I know you'll read this so send me my BOV or put the cash back in my bank. victor 71-Do you know what people are called that take peoples money and dont deliver the goods--? cause you're about find out real quick if you don't tidy this up ! pronto !

OK YOU'VE HAD MY MONEY FOR TWO WEEKS AND STILL NO BOV--GIVE ME MY MONEY BACK OR GIVE ME THE BOV YOU LITTLE SHIT

I do mainly short trip and given the warm weather I figure it can't hurt + I also regard all previous J owners as twats who probably didn't change the oil frequently enough so a bit of catch up happening, I'll probably go six months over winter. I agree that the 10 x 50w seems on the high end with 10 x 40w probably being more appropriate however I talked with a couple of workshops and guys who drift rides with RB 25s and they're up in the 15 x 60w range so I'm not frettin I'm over doing at 10 X 50w on a ride with 83000ks on it. I'm going to give Sougi a go next oil change as it's only $20 more than my ideal price ($40) and just in my "what I'll pay' range @ $60 , I'm completely over paying large amounts for oil for a streeter. I've been reading oil threads for some years now and still know frak all about 'best' oils outside of what common sense tells me and that very cheap oils are probably not the best and very expensive is probably hugely overhyped and overpriced, and I don't give a toss if team Nissan/Subaru/Raleigh Bicycle uses it either.

Thanks mate, done today, All Good.

Better warn him to get his shit together for the next 3 billion brake hoses and 6 mega trillion friken clutch lines likely to be comming his way he he , Ah -- that reminds me , please put me down for a clutch braidy if/when you do them-- BASHO 1998 R34GTT--

I'm now using Penrite HPR10 it's a 10 x 50 semi synth costing around $39.95 for 5ltrs and an OE filter @ $12.00 ea. I'm running a stock except exhaust R34GTT with 83000ks up on the Gold Coast, so the temps can be a bit consistantly toasty. I change the oil every 4 months and usualy have around 2000ks up between change times-- and I don't flog my ride. I've used Nulon fully synth (WHICH IS NOT) Castrol Edge and Valvoline semi syn and quite honestly from engine happyness sound and oil pressure the Penrite is the nicest, which, from my exhaustive scientific research outlined previously here proves beyond a doubt its the best , it's, also the least expensive. My fuel consumption has not increased with the slightly heavier grade (10x40w to 10x50w) staying constant at around 11 to 12 ltrs per 100 Ks -city only I have also used in previous cars Motul , Royal Purple , Mobil, etc and find no basis in fact for useing expensive track oriented oils in an only lightly pushed streeter with frequently changed oils. .

X2

Thanks mate .

What kind of ride are you interested in getting ?

I'm plugging along with Kaspersky, it updates regularly dosen't seem to resource hungry, only cost $90 for 3 installs, is good for 2 years and so far it seem to have dealt harshly with anything it hasn't liked.

same message as yesterday

As part of my never ending servicing regime I now need to change the fuel filter, I know where it is and I'm pressuming the fuel line will have residual pressure in it that will need releasing before hoying the old filter out, Could someone please tell me how I release the fuel line pressure or post a link to where I will find the info--I have searched- to no avail. ?? Also --Are there more filters than the one in the engine bay (not counting the baggy one on the fuel pump in the tank.) ??

The 25 GT-t badge on the rear of my R34 GTT looks like crap so I've ordered a replacement set from Nissan however I aint got a clue how to remove the old ones , the last time I removed a badge it was from the rear of a rex and I used a heat gun--ah hem-- . Any tips for removing them will be gratefully received.

Did anyone actualy buy this and if so did you actualy receive it ? I payed victor71 for a BOV on the thurs 15/04 and as yet no BOV -- and communication from him ceased last Tue even though I know he has been on this site as late as last evening. Is this guy just a little scammer ? Or am I worrying unneccessarily ?

HEY WHY DON'T YOU REPLY I KNOW YOU'VE JUST SCANNED THIS POST , WHERE IS MY BOV ??

:mad:I PAID CASH INTO YOUR BANK ACCOUNT LAST THURSDAY (15/04) WHERE THE FRIK IS MY BOV ?

Hi Chris, thanks for that mate, don't think they'll bolt in to well either I've been told they're 183mm W and the hole on the car is 178mm W, it's only a few mil but it makes all the difference , as the actress said to the bishop , suprised about the plugs though they look copacetic from the pics --ah well.

Any pics of the engine bay and interior you'd care to post ? --paint all origional ?

I am presuming here but it would appear in most instances to be to prevent the vehicle being taken to anyone else to tune , in any event appearance or not the net effect of installing a lock out code and then refusing to divulge it has this result.

I've got a Japspec Pioneer Cariozera head unit in my car and whilst it works fine and has a minidisc as well as CD it dosen't play MP3s which is about the only additional function I need in a head unit, although usb port would be nice; anyhoo I can pick up a Micra double din head unit which will play MP3s and should be a fit plug and play cheap as and the question is --are they any good ? or are they cheap as because they're cactus ?

IMO If you take something like ECUtech , I had this program loaded into an MY00 WRX and tweeked by MRT in Sydney and customtuned and upgraded by Mercury in Brisbane later when I'd added a few more mods. When I purchased the tune as done in the first place I knew it was locked and that only ECUtech liscence owners/workshops could access the programe--I could however reset the thing at any time back to the last tune myself and clear fault codes like an AFM fault code if I had to replace one . the point being I purchased an already developed programme--so far so good. If on the other hand I had however taken my car to be tuned with an aftermarket access motherboard fitted (for example) for a generic tune and I payed for that tuning work and the motherboard and the motherboad installation I fricked if I'm see why I should not have the access code as this would be a generic tune parculiar to that car. In point of fact I would not have the work done at a workshop that would not provide the access code when the work was completed.-and payed for of course. I would want it locked however--individual owners are not the only animals that fiddle with ECU's when other animals backs are turned.

If the engine is REALY shitty inside it may be best to flush, if so---- Buy some engine flush , it comes in 100mill bottle I think , nulon is just one brand, you add it to your existing oil when changing, the instructions are usualy to run your engine at idle for 20 minutes reving it to 2000-2500 a couple of times during this period, stop engine and dump oil as fast as you can leave to drain as long as you possibly can before refilling. Deffinately change the oil filter everytime you change the oil. -But especial if you;ve just done an engine flush. Hope that helps a bit.

I'm generaly not much in favour of chemical engine oil flushing thingos like nulon engine flush but if the engine is realy gunked up it may be worth your while to give it a go at your next oil change perhaps ???

Cold start, idle until the engine mqanagement cuts the revs back from fast (start up) idle, stay orf boost till at least half way to normal running temp on gauge. Servicing --start now, theres a service sheet you can print on here , search this link --- http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...l=service+owner > Post#11 --- there are 28 service items that will need doing + wear and tear stuff that will need to be fixed depending on how fussy you are. the 100K service is costly if you do everything at once-and everything will need doing remember the car is 8 to 12 years old, and previous owners may have been ordinary when it comes to servicing. I've got 84k on mine and I've combined the 80K service with the 100K and I'm about at 85% and it's taken me 3 months, you still should do your oil and filter every 5000ks or 6 months whichever comes sooner.

X 2