BASHO

It only takes two bidders who realy want something--and have the dosh of course-- Take the holy Virgin slice of toast for example . Or not.

Sometimes cleaning the AFM is only a temporary solution I know this from when I had WRX, if the car ran OK after you cleaned the AFM then went crook again could still be the AFM do you know anyone you can borrow a good one from to check it out.

Nope I didn't pay a sausage for the re-tension, if you replaced everything idler bearings/water pump and obviously belt it shouldn't be noisey.

Update--took it back to the workshop again and they re tensioned the belt again , it's now done another 300ks since and is as quiet as mice. It was mentioned that it was not tensioned as much as an OE one would be this time around so I guess we can sumise that there is a fractional give in the OE belt to allow for engine expansion when hot and as Gates states "Zero give in a Gates Racing blue belt" which causing bearing noise if overtensioned when the engine is hot. Or Like That

Ah Ha , thanks for that , lowering , I inherited KingSprings on mine which I don't think had been on long when I bought it, I also inherited stock shockys which promptly proceeded to spit at the rate of one a month, hardly surprising 80.000ks, spring hight change and good ole Aussie roads , that'll do it. As I liked the ride hight (25mm lower than stock front & rear) I decided to replace the OE with OE and as I'd had a wheel alignmant F&R after replacing the front castor rod bushes I haven't bothered with a further alignment, but I hadn't changed the ride hight either.

Why ? I had a WRX thar ran faster than a mad centipede and had an idle like a roller coaster --new AFM --problem fixed. Surely dying at idle has a limited No of causes, just go through them one by one till it's fixed (if theres no fault code) Lets start with ; -------------------Fuel pump. -------------------Fuel regulator. -------------------Fuel filter. -------------------Dirty injectors. :others may care to copy and paste and add other things. OR(My choice) --- Take it to a workshop that knows WTF they're doing get a fauly code read and they'll nail the frikin thing in 5 minutes flat , pay them for the diagnostic and then fix it yourself or if it's to tricky get them to do it. I personaly would not be friken round with the fuel system if it wasn't an easy fix, -wrong call there and bang bang engine time. I can't understand why you're putting up with a friken spanner cowboy who seems to be learning at your expense just an IMO.

Take it out and spray contact cleaner on it , try not to touch the wire with anything , just give it a few hits, read the instructions on the can they're pretty helpfull.

Knackerhead, Should have had his speed limiter/fuel cut dissabled, deserves rooting for abandoning his ride .

Why do you need a wheel align when you change shockys ? maybe a camber adjust if you change hight, if the camber is adjustable that is , but a wheel align ?? my logic says if it was right before the change it'll be right after.

Or not --the thing has a few question marks over it now (as far as this posts subscribers may be concerned) and it may not be all roses and minty goodness, if I were an interstate bidder for this I'd certainly not punt until I'd had a good look at it 'in the tin' as it were. I'd say you are on the money regarding a lower winning bid though.

I live on the Gold Coast where can I get this from Autobarn, Cheaper Autos wherever ? don't recall seeing Gulf Western anywhere-- mind you I wasn't looking --

Sussed-absolutely was (considering) but it blew way past my killer $3.46.5c close the deal offer. --and I only wanted 20c change--.

OK anyone know what other manufacturer has the same stud patern and offset--5x113.4 and +40 offset 310mm fronts & IFIIK rears.

Seriously considered going after this for about 5 whole minutes but them I thought of 33yo oil seals and hoses and prop shaft/diff seals and heater hoses and the non working A/C-"just needs gas" yep--sure and ?? wheel bearing seals etc , and the "not even driven to the shops" little old German lady ad infinitum--and I was outa there.

I have absolutely no idea but I'm guessing it would probably be the ser 2 R33 GTST if any , someone must know ??

Frak my ole boots , I've been using Nulon 10x40 Hi Tech Fast Flow since I bought the car /for the last 7 months/3 oil changes on the asumption that the FULLY SYNTHETIC printed on the bottle was the truth--and it's bullshit--this oil is a mineral oil derivative--I just phoned Nu-frakin-lon and confirmed this , no frakin wonder it ages so quickly. IT'S DINO ALL THE WAY and it wont be going in my frakin engine again--and niether will any other friken nu-ferkin-lon product. SO THERE ! Now the never ending question--What oil--?

I phoned Gates Technical --(03) 9797 9666 spoke to a very helpfull guy--Brian-- who told me the prime reasons for timing belt noise are--- not in any order--- Pulley alignment Tension Idler bearings Also that Gates Belts dont stretch-------------atall. We may therefore postulate that if a Gates racing belt is set to the same tension as an OE belt (which may have some slight give) and when the motor is fully warmed up and expansion takes place the Gates Racing belt will become overtensioned causing bearing stress and that whiring grating noises will ensue. Or like that ?

The bearings are not to much money I think I payed about $100.00 maybe $120.00 for a pair of newby's,maybe put a post in "parts wanted" see what turns up. I have no idea how much it would cost to fit, a couple of hours I'm guessin , if they are going to adjust the belts they'd be most of the way to fitting them anyway. I took mine back to the workshop that fitted them in the first place and they readjusted everything and so far it's all good but mine didn't start noising up till it had done 250ks and I've only done 200 since they were readjusted.There was no charge. They did however say that they that they didn't tighten the belt (Gates Racing Blue belt) as much as they normaly would with an OE one when they re-adjusted it. Belts should not make noise if they do they are not adjusted properly. One other cause of noise can be mis-aligned pulleys-(I phoned Gates for that one)

Just had my timing belt water pump etc et al done, had the same squeely moany problem , it could be one of your auxilary/accessory belts--(aircon, power steer, aternator.) not tensioned correctly or it could be your timing belt overtightened. I had a Gates Racing belt fitted which are nortorious for howling thier tits of if they are overtightened, mine had to go back and have the timing belt re-adjusted as it started performing horribly after 250ks. Did you have new idler bearings fitted ?- if you didn't these can develop noise very shortly after a new timing belt is fitted also.

R34GTT

I inherited a stock strut/KingSpring setup on my R34GTT when I bought it . I don't think the KingSprings had been on for very long. The lowering is 25mm front and rear from stock. The spring rate is firm but not harsh. The ride is what should be expected in a road driven performance vehicle. I have subsequently replaced 3 of the 4 OE struts with new ones due to failures. These would have been caused by--------- A/Altering the operating hight of the strut after 80.0000klms and- B/ Age (9yrs old) , shitty Australian roads and of course A/. OE front struts for an R34GTT are approximately (RRP) $190.00 ea and rears $175.00ea making a full set (RRP) $730.00.you can probably knock 15-20% off the RRP if you can buy them trade. I fitted mine myself so I have no idea what labour would be to fit however the rears on an R34GTT involve friken around with the parcel shelf and the removal of the back seat so to fit a pair 2hrs should suffice ,the fronts 1-1.5hr should be enough(R34GTT). I believe the rears on an R32 can be done without rooting around with the back seat etc so it should be much quicker to R&R than the R34GTT.. I have had no further issues with the replaced struts and am now waiting for the last old one to pop its cork before I replace it. Hope this helps

Zorst AAAAAAAAARRRRGGGGGGGH gotta big oval 3.5" in and out Varex at the end of my system -culprit---I'm bettin' it is. Thanks mate. KeeperPosted Yesterday, 05:50 PM checked the subframe mounting bushings??? look for crap dripping out of the front ones, looks like jelly. Thanks for that-just checked and still dry as- no aeroplane atall- good call though I'll keep an eye on them as the front castor rods sprang a jelly not long ago so as the rear subby's are jelly too {which I didn't know)they may be going to follow suite .

I've got a rattle in the passenger side rear end , sounds like a blown shocky or loose rear strut , but it aint , because I've got new rear struts and I changed them myself and I know they aint loose. It dosen't do it all the time but I can bring it on by giving it a bit if boot on a sharp lefthander as long as there is a bump in the road on the corner--you would be amazed at how many corners do have a bump in them.--or maybe not. I've jacked up the back at both sides and can't get anything wobbling when tugged or bushes hanging out or obviously fraked. Any ideas anyone ??? Oh yup ita an R34GTT.

Just as a thought does anyone know what genuine OE's run out at ?

Both seem excesive @ over two hundred $ ea , if the handbrake opperates on an integrated rear drum I can see the rears--sorta-- but the fronts are a straight rotor so WTF is this $200ea + about ? The frigen things are all outa China for everything except ultra mainstream cars--ie Falcodores-- so I've been told by an RDA supplier. And suppliers wonder why we're not modin the crap out of our rides anymore